Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes Shocks, springs, cages, brakes, sub-frame connectors, etc.

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Old May 12, 2008 | 09:26 PM
  #1  
lt1 beast's Avatar
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From: long island , NY
no brakes

ok ive searched high and low and im still baffled. I started with a dry brake system. Ive added LS1 front brake calipers and still have the Lt1 rears. Ive bled the brakes 3x already and each wheel is bled 4x each. The brakes will barly stop the car at idle. I also had slp line locks installed which i removed because the bottom of the solinoid was leakinig by the fitting. The master cylinder leaks by the brake booster a little but has always done that. I also forgot to bench bled it. pedal is on the floor to stop it in my driveway. Anyone know how to fix my leak and my brake problem?
Old May 12, 2008 | 10:01 PM
  #2  
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A dry master cylinder always has to be bench bled before install. I don't know what method you used to bleed the system, but you might try a Mityvac or similar. Plus, if you have a leaky master cylinder, I am not sure how you can expect it to work right.
Old May 12, 2008 | 11:21 PM
  #3  
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You also have to bleed the ABS unit, and if there were any codes for the ABS, you may have to have the ABS motors "homes" with a Tech 2 tool before you can bleed the brakes. But as Rob indicated, fix the know leaks before doing anything else. Makes no sense at all to drive around with known leaks.
Old May 14, 2008 | 01:34 PM
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thank you guys i will of coarse fix all the leaks but im trying to norrow down the problem so i know what to buy without wasting money. thanks for your imput
Old May 15, 2008 | 12:59 PM
  #5  
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i replaced the master cylinder and bendch bled it yesterday. If i disconnect the relay for the abs unit with that open up the solinoids allowing mme the fully bleed them or do i need to run the engine?
Old May 15, 2008 | 02:10 PM
  #6  
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From the manual. Bleed the rearward valve on the abs module until no air is seen. Then bleed the forward valve. Bleed the wheels. Right rear, left rear, right front then left front. Then bleed the abs module again. After that check the brake pedal feel and travel. If it feels ok start the car and check the feel and travel again. If it feels ok road test the car. If it doesn't feel ok and you don't have a Tech 1. Start the car with foot off brake and let it run 10 seconds then turn car off. Do that 5 times. Each time you start the car the abs cycles the solenoids. If your abs light stays on after you start the car and let it run I don't think this will work and you will need a Tech 1 to cycle the solenoids. After starting the car 5 times repeat the entire bleeding sequence. Make sure you don't let the master run dry or you will have to start all over including the bench bleed. Also if you have a good pedal after the first bleeding apparently you don't need to do the starting the car and rebleeding procedure.
Old May 18, 2008 | 08:39 PM
  #7  
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the master cylinder fixed my problem. The car stops pretty good but i still need to brake in the hawk pads. How can i get the back brakes to grab harder? Maybe i can shim the pads?
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