TomZ28

I just took my 4th gen (2000) Z28 back out of storage. It's been lying dormant for around 2 years. Moved it a few times but that's all. I have a newfound appreciation for it and want to complete what I started. There is one thing I have no idea about yet and that is breaks calipers and rotors. From what I have read slotted rotors seem to be preferred over any drilled or variation of the two. I am curious to know what set up you guys are running and any info you might be able to give me to help me out with my decisions. I drive the car only half the year and when I do it's usually fairly casual. I'm not doing any street racing at least. I am looking for appearance as well so trying to avoid the rusting look. Paint or coating for that? Also painted calipers vs covers? Thank you for any input. I have done a little research but the answers are all over the place.

87DJP2001

I hate to BREAK the news to you, "New break set up" will only BRAKE you.

TomZ28

Haha. Damn it. Now I look even more like a dumb ***. Thanks

DANOZ28

im by no means a brake expert, i bought cross drilled & slotted rotors thinking they would run cooler. now im told thats not true plus most shops wont turn those rotors so your one & done. they look good but i think thats it. one of my hawk ceramic pads is squeeking so im not sure how im going to fix that, not ready for complete brake job.

87DJP2001

Forget the slotted & cross drilled rotors, they are just eyecandy. With the car being dormant for so long I would change brake fluid and also check the condition of the rubber brake lines (may want to go Stainless steel front & rear). Next rebuild the calipers install a good quality ceramic brake pads (Not aggressive type pads) and if needed turn the brake rotors (Or new ones if the thickness is below tolerance). Now all this will Break the bank account.

IndianScout

I went with the stoptech cross drilled with ceramic pads, so far I love them.

TobyZ28

Hi Tom, a cheap alternative a few people have gone to is upgrading to LS1 front Spindles, disks and brakes. Performance wise they are a 2 piston design and are more effective than the LT1 setup. You may also shave a few lbs (i haven't found any definitive info on this yet though) since the spindles have less metal and the calipers are aluminum vs iron.

From what I've researched on discs slotted is preferred over cross drilled and apparently has less fade in the rain (plus added cool factor), other then that normal rotors will be just fine.

If you have more $$ to spend or more track oriented goals you can do a more expensive aftermarket lighter weight systems.

I am considering this upgrade (LS1 brakes/spindles) myself right now too, the cost/performance for appears to be very good, and the bigger disks will look nice with the new wheels i have yet to get Wife approval on . I'd recommend painting your calipers before swapping in new ones since it's nice and easy with them already off the car!

FirebirdGT

I did this on my 96 - but used C5 calipers instead - they are a bolt-on.
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pgerst

I think the LS brake swap is in a tie "for most bang for your buck" with higher ratio rear gears. One thing to add is the LS will work with the salad shooters, the C5 need a 17' wheel.

FirebirdGT

Only if you also install the C5 13" rotors - which I did not. The C5 forged caliper, which is a stronger caliper, is a direct bolt-on replacement for the cast 98+ F-body caliper.
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pgerst

Yes, it is a fit. Downside is the C5 caliper piston volume is smaller, coupled with smaller LS1 rotors, increases the brake bias to the rear quite a bit. If you are going to mix and match parts, here is a good tool: Bias Calculator

FirebirdGT

Yes - quite true - and my 96 not stopped better.

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