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need help on replaceing front control arm bushings.

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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 11:14 AM
  #1  
FormulaW66's Avatar
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From: Santa Cruz, CA USA
need help on replaceing front control arm bushings.

im replaceing my worn out bushings in the front U/L control arms. i got the Prothane/urethane kit from BMR.

(7-227 - 1993-2002 Front A-arm bushing kit w/o bushing shells(one set covers all 4 a-arms) $44.95)

the upper control arm bushings wernt too bad to do. the hardest part was cutting and scraping out the old ruber bushing. then used a C-clamp to push the new bushing and then the center metal piece.

now i have to do the lower control arm ones. and i have a few questions

1) i been doing some searches im not sure if the kit i have needs to be pressed in or if i can do it myself in my driveway???

2) do i have to remove the lower control arm compleatly? i think it would make it easy and the answer is yes. the removal is where im confused

3) im reading the haynes book and it says i have to beat it with a hammer to separate the steering knuckle from the lower control arm. is that nessary. i never worked on a this part of my car but isnt a ball joint just a ball with a bolt comming out it it and the bolt slides into the steering kunckle and thats it. or is there something im missing. seems like i just take the castle nut off and slide the knucle out.

Thanks for any help!!!
Old Apr 18, 2008 | 02:06 PM
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Yes, you definitely need to take the arm off the car.

No, you probably won't have to beat the thing w/ a hammer. It might be a little stuck from rust but it should come off and if not a few licks w/ a hammer will definitely get it off.

I had to press out the bushing on mine. It isn't the only way to do it, but it is for sure the easiest way to do it.
Old Apr 18, 2008 | 04:35 PM
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Do not beat the ball joints with a hammer to separate them. Probably just screw up the threads. The "bolt" portion of the ball joint is tapered, so as the nut pulls the knuckle eye onto the "bolt" it becomes a force fit. Typically, you need a pickle fork to separate the lower ball joint, taking extreme care to avoid damaging the rubber boot. The upper joint will sometimes separate simply by tapping on the side of the knuckle.
Old Apr 20, 2008 | 09:20 AM
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FormulaW66's Avatar
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thanks for the Info guys. i think i understand what i need to do to take that arm off.

last question i have is with the Prothane/urethane kit i got from BMR. do i need to press those in??? i read on the searches that you dont have to. the only reason for the press is because it replaces the metal also right???

thanks
Old Apr 20, 2008 | 09:50 AM
  #5  
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I did the ES poly kit, and all replacements just pushed in, requiring nothing more than a big C-clamp for the revised design used on the lower vertical bushing. I don't know if anyone other than ES uses the revised design.
Old Apr 20, 2008 | 02:28 PM
  #6  
FormulaW66's Avatar
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there are 8 total bushings the lower control arm. (2 halfs each)

seems like i just cut and scrape the old ruber bushings out and reuse the metal.

the ruber was so bad on the upper arms i was able to pull the center metal tube out with a pair of pliers and cut out the ruber with a small knife. im assuming the lower ones are just as bad.
Old Apr 21, 2008 | 02:26 PM
  #7  
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I just melted them out with a propane torch. Messy..... ugh! Also, check the thread regarding a broken lower A-arm after an ES install. Might be related to the heat????
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