Bawls

Oh and here's the driver's side of mine. Blood sweat and tears!

http://home.comcast.net/~bsmith84/fr...ardown-005.jpg

mobleman

Nope, stuck laterally as well, cannot slide them side to side yet. I've been smacking them sideways too, but maybe I'll concentrate this more.

Bawls

http://home.comcast.net/~bsmith84/fr...ardown-001.jpg

Soaking in PB blaster. You can see I needed new bushings bad!

mobleman

Nice picture! It looks like the penetrant worked its way up from the bottom half the length of the bolt based on the rust color variation?? (and maybe a bit from the top as well)

Bawls

actually that's just where the threads are on the bolt. There's so much rust, as I was tapping it up and out of the bushing sleeve, the rust filled in pretty much all the threads.

Bawls

I zoomed up on the bolt from the original hi res picture. Here's a little more detail.

http://home.comcast.net/~bsmith84/fr...rdown-005z.jpg

Z28barnett

Get a MAP Gas torch at Wallyworld. Yellow bottle, burns 2000 deg hotter than propane.

PB blaster will work, it is a slow process.

Heat the bottom of the bolt with a MAP torch or OXY till dull red. Spray the top of the bolt and let the PB work its way down.

Keep the nut loosely on the bottom of the bolt so you have a better target to hit and to prevent mushrooming the bolt threads.

When you get the bolt head to move up slightly, spray more PB on it and knock it back down. Then drive it back up, spray repeat. This will take hours on a rusty car. Once you have the bolt moving you will get it

FYI, the new bolts are unplated also. The front bolt is plated, it is easy, I would have put a front bolt in the rear position but the lengths are different.

Good Luck

Z28

mobleman

Thanks for the suggestions.. I already have a mini Oxygen/MAPP torch set I've been using to heat up the end of the bolt. I'll try your suggestions tonight..

Also, why would GM in their infinite wisdom plate the forward horizontal bolt but not plate the rear vertical bolts? My front bolts came out easily and still look new after 10 years. Could there be a logical reason for them to do this??

Z28barnett

There is one good reason that they might have done this, They want you to buy a new car!!!

Z28

respectirocz

i've been having problems removing the rear bolt on my drivers side, front lower control arm, too

but i'm in a different situation
i just left the control arm there because i'm changing the k-member, the a-arms and i got new grade 8 bolts for everything

so it can stay stuck for all i care

mobleman

If they kept building F-bodies, I'd consider it!

mobleman

One down, one to go...
Driver side is off!!!!! gotta start working on the passenger side one now..

And all your input was worth it, PB Blaster, heat, sledgehammer and an impact wrench to tighten it down periodically seemed to do the trick..

Thanks again!!!

Bawls

Good deal man! Beat the living **** out of it for all fbody owners!

mobleman

Done..

My final thoughts for others who may run into this:

I tried a slightly different process on the passenger side, and it seemed to go much quicker. It may have been a fluke but here it is:

1. Beat on the bolt upwards for a few minutes.
2. I used a Mapp torch to heat the bottom of the bolt
3. Once the bolt was glowing hot, I quickly and carefully (wear gloves) threaded the nut back on and then used an impact wrench to tighten it up. I think this may have helped stretch the bolt a bit in relation to the bushing sleeve, and may help loosen the rust bond. Additionally, the hotter bolt would stretch more than if it were at room temperature.
4. Loosen the nut fully and beat on the bolt again. I waited a few minutes for it to cool down first.

repeat 1-4 until removed, the alternating hammering and tightening seems to loosen the bolt quicker than what I was doing before..

Again, thanks to everyone for their input.

Steven Clark

I am having the same problem. tried heat and penetrating oil, it's turning now with ease but won't pull through. A C-Clamp might work but can't find one the correct size.