im new to LT1's and im still really young, but im hoping by this time next year i will be where i want with my car. im hoping for high to mid 11's HOPEFULLY.lol. i plan on going the nitrous route and im still figuring out all that stuff. now, if im not mistaken, you need a cage for 11.99s and faster correct? im planning on doing a 6 or 8 point cage, but nothing overhead or throught the dash, except the rear hoop. im just going with a basic kit that i can weld in and be done. i heard the jegs kits arent the best and there is a bit of cutting that might need to be done. i have heard good things about S&W cages, like this...http://www.swracecars.com/roll_bars.asp

that is what i would want if i got an 8 point. i just want the rear hoop, then to the trunk and then along the doors, but if it has those 2 extra angled bars to make it an 8 point thats fine. will i be fine with a 6 or 8 point running 11's or what is the deal with that?

basically my main questions are,
-how many points do i need to be legal for 11's
-whats a good kit you guys recomend that would be pretty cheap and basically weld directly in
-and lastly how do the S&W (or any other cage someone reccomends for that matter) mount for the back bars that go to the rear hatch area? i am guessing they just go over the seat and mount flat on the flat part, or do they go through the plastic peices where the seatbelts go to?

TIA guys i hope i can get everything i need to know cause like everyone i hate wasting money and crap that wont work.

 

I can't answer too many of your questions. But another option is Wolfe Racecraft. Thunder Racing sells them and probably some other vendors.
From what i've heard, their cages are good.

 

The S&W cages are nice.
My buddy got his with swing out doors for under $200.
His is the 8 point.

As far as the rear bars. They get welded to the under carrage just like the other points. They don't go through the plastic but I don't know if there is specific rule saying you couldn't if you could get the pipes to fit that way.

 

So, what is the difference between the S&W 8Pt rollbar and the
Wolfe 6pt rollbar that makes the Wolfe $120 more expensive? Plus,
the S&W comes pre-notched and Wolfe charges an extra $100 for
notching.

Emil:93 Z

 

NHRA changed the requirements this year. Any coupe/t-top running under 11.50 requires a 5-point roll bar. The main hoop with cross-bar near shoulder height is 2 points, the rear braces are 2 points, and the side bar (passing the driver's arm between the shoulder and elbow) is the 5th point. Technically, you need nothing more than that. You can use swingouts on the side bar. Everything else must be welded.

If you plan to run faster than 10.00, you need an NHRA inspected and certified roll cage, but I don't think that's what you are thinking about.

 

no im thinking hopefully high 11's. i see you have to drop the fuel tank to mount the rear bars on the wolfe cage if you get the over the seat bars, but you can get the ones to go through the plastic pieces in the back too, that would prolly be easier, but idk if the S&W or Jegs cages have them like that. how much about would it cost to have a shop weld up a cage kit like that?

 

The S&W and JEG's kits are not much more than a bunch of loose parts. You could probably install the rear braces any way tyou want. One way to do it:

http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun.../DCP03475a.jpg

 

S & W quoted me a price of $1000 including the price of the cage to install one of their cages. This was if I brought them the car with the interior removed. That was a couple of years ago, so the price may be different now.