Alright, this is driving me insane. Either I am massively overlooking something or there's more to it, but I can't figure out how to get to the bottom calliper bolt. There's a spring covering it with a plate around it. I wish I had a picture for you....

I have taught myself how to do everything from front brakes and rotors to resealing the intake manifold, but this just has me stumped.

brake callipers are stock 1997.

 

Once you take the top bolt out, the bottom should be a pin, and you can just swing the caliper right off of the rotor

 

REALLY?!

Is there enough room to get the pads in and out/ compress the calliper??

 

The pads should pretty much fall right out, then you can depress the piston, new pads, swing it over and down, top bolt back in. That's how mine went

 

Thanks! I appreciate the advice. I'm going to go try it now!

 

You can even depress the piston with a c-clamp before you swing the caliper outwards and remove the pads. Make sure there is room in the master cylinder for the brake fluid that will be forced into it when you depress the piston. Makes a real mess, and eats the paint off in seconds if it overflows.

On the front of the caliper, the c-clamp will be in the hole in the caliper, bearing on the outer pad, and in the back of the caliper, the c-clamp will be bearing against the brake hose fitting bolt. Right out of the factory shop manual.

 

Well the bottom "bolt" did end up being a pin! Thanks guys, I now have excellent rear and front brakes!

 

Great to hear when things work out well, enjoy!

 

I suggest ALWAYS opening the bleeder valve on the caliper before pressing the piston back into the bore. By doing this you are A) not pushing contaminated fluid back past the ABS filter (on ABS systems), risking damage and B) it's eaiser to compress the piston when the bleeder is open because you won't be pushing fluid all the way up to the master cylinder. Once you have the new pads in place and the caliper in place, just leave the bleeder open to allow the system to gravity bleed until you have a light steady stream of dirty fluid seeping out.

 

to Thewheelkid, how would you have dirty brake fluid if it is a closed system

 

"Closed" is a relative term. A perfectly closed system would get no contaminants or moisture, but a brake system on a vehicle does not often live up to that expectation. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and any moisture inside can cause parts to rust and dirty the fluid. That is the most common cause. I don't think I have ever seen an aged brake system that was perfectly clean.

 

maybe your bolt is frozen/seized?