Its time to get my SLP Level II SS Package in the Z. I know how to do the rears, but the fronts are intimidating me. Basically I need a break down of what happens after the sprindle is off. My SLP kit came with some plates and other small parts that I have no clue what they are or how they install?

I found I can rent a spring compressor at Autozone or might be able to get a local shop to do the spring/shock part. From my limited understanding the shock/spring combo unbolts as one, and thats the part that needs decompressed and reassembled. Otherwise everthing is bolt in/out, right?

I was also thinking of doing ball joints while I was in there. Should I do the upper ones too or just the lower ones?

-Dustin-

 

Injuneer has some help on his site for spring/shock install.

 

Thanks shoebox. I'll track it down.

-Dustin-

 

Wow, thats alot to get done for just one person. Always reading picture books has finally caught up to me. I think I'll try to assemble a small gang, hopefully some with F-body front end experience.

Link: http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/HALEibch.htm

-Dustin-

 

It's not too bad, I can swap them out in about 3 hours by my self. As far as ball joints, uppers are easy to change. Drill out the old ones (riveted in place) and the news ones come with nuts and bolts. As far as the lowers, they'll need to be pressed out and the new ones pressed in. Might be worth doing some price shopping on this; the cost of new lower ball joints plus the amchine shop cost to press them on/off, might be real close to the cost of replacing the lower A arm with a 1LE arm with the lower ball joint installed. You'll also need an alignment when you're done.

 

Whats the price on 1LE's vs the ball joint replacement? I also was wondering if putting some polyurethane bushings in the arms would be of benefit to me or if its just going to make for a bumpier ride.

I found a picture guide at year-one, so I'm not so intimidated now. What does Injuneer mean about marking certain spots so that the combo will reinstall correctly? What do you mark and where is it?

Thanks guys.

-Dustin-

 

You need to maintain the relative alignment of the top spring mount, and the bottom shock mount (the part that bolts to the lower A-arm). If you allow the top spring mount to rotate relative to the lower shock mount, the studs in the upper spring mount will not be aligned properly to fit through the holes in the shock tower.

 

Oh ok, I'm understanding now. Thanks alot Injuneer, I hope to get a buddy or two over here and get these in. I'm tired of my car handling like my grandma's station wagon.

-Dustin-

 

1LE Front Left Lower Control Arm (GM p/n 52367658) (arm complete with bushings and Ball Joint)
1LE Front Right Lower Control Arm (GM p/n 52367659) (arm complete with bushings and Ball Joint)
GMPartsdirect.com prices them at $128 each

 

You don't need to take the ball joints apart to do this. I've posted the link numerous times if you search for it.

 

The fact that you do not need to separate the ***** joints to remove the spring/shock assembly is covered in my procedure.

But, he is thinking of replacing the ball joints, so it might be a good idea to separate them.

 

Well the reason I spoke of the ball joints is because my steering is pretty lose at highway and higher speeds. I checked the rag joint and had a shop check the alignment and joints, etc. Two places told me they think its the rack and pinion, I'm going to make a thread about it before I start dumping money.

PS Should I be ok driving with just the rear shock and springs for a day? I dont think I have time to do both in the same day.

-Dustin-

 

Yes, that's fine...might look odd, but it won't hurt anything. One of my friends has been driving around like that for over 2 years and I still don't think he's put his fronts in yet!

 

Dont be intimidated by the install job - Its not that bad. I did it myself last spring and I am far from being really mechanically inclined. Be sure to paint the alignment marks on your shock assembly before taking it apart.. otherwise, you wont be able to line everything back together when you put it back in the car.

Some tips:
If you drive in the rain at all, you will find that the upper nut is rusted up from the moisture. I suggest packing the upper strut mount with either RTV or grease to prevent this in the future. Its also a good idea to coat some of the hardware with POR-15, esp if you drive in the winter.

Hang the brake caliper by a piece of wire and dont let it hang by the hose.