Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes Shocks, springs, cages, brakes, sub-frame connectors, etc.

Front brakes won't hold.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 12, 2010 | 09:03 AM
  #1  
race u 2's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 100
From: Waynesville I.L.
Front brakes won't hold.

Ok here is what's going on. If i set the line lock on the car front wheels will roll, if im pulling in my drive and slam on brakes it will just barely start to lock fronts up in the rocks. What i have done, i put the line lock on the car, but all seemed fine after that last spring. This winter I pulled the coplete rear end out for a gear swap put it back in and now this. When u push the brakes down it seems to go 1 to 2 inches than hard as a rock, but seems to stop fine under normal driving. So i thought something in master cylinder was screwed up. Changed that still no luck, but this time i manualy bled the brakes, and when u bleed the rear it would ony go down 1 to 2 inches than is hard and no fluid will come out bleeder. Ive power blead 1 and half big bottles of fluid. I just don't get it i'm pretty sure front brakes should hold and not roll? Oh I also pulled the front rotors and pads off and preped them thought maybe they were glazed, but still no luck. any help with this asap would be great!
Old Jun 12, 2010 | 11:24 AM
  #2  
Injuneer's Avatar
Administrator
 
Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,098
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
When you bled the brakes, did you start by bleeding the ABS unit?
Old Jun 12, 2010 | 10:19 PM
  #3  
race u 2's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 100
From: Waynesville I.L.
No not at first but then i remembered the 2 bleeder in the abs module. So I bled it and went back through and bled the rest again. Still no help with that I talked to a GM tech and he said i need a Tech 2 or something that will put the abs in neutral positon, and then bleed the abs then bleed the rest in order of RR, LR, RF, and then LF. Dose this sound about right or is there away around this? Also is there a good reason to unhook the wires from the abs module for racing or not really?
Old Jun 13, 2010 | 08:32 AM
  #4  
Injuneer's Avatar
Administrator
 
Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,098
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
I've only read the procedure in my Chiltons, and who knows how accurate that is. It indicates that you only need a Tech 2 to "home" the motors if you have an ABS code.
Old Jun 13, 2010 | 08:42 AM
  #5  
race u 2's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 100
From: Waynesville I.L.
Well I guess my only choice right now is to try the Tech 2. Out of ideas here, and missed a day of racing what a pain in the rear!
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Magenta_Hearts
LT1 Based Engine Tech
15
Mar 29, 2017 08:54 PM
Brake_L8
Cars For Sale
0
Jan 20, 2015 09:44 AM
Hurin
Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes
4
Dec 13, 2014 07:38 PM
chevroletfreak
LT1 Based Engine Tech
202
Jul 4, 2005 05:00 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:21 AM.