Do you know if the edelbrock chassis/suspension parts for Lt1 listed on summit racing catalog will do the trick in a project of a 10 sec car?

 

The LCA's are boxed, making them uneccesarily heavy. They don't have LCA relocation brackets, so that's a shortcoming. All the connections on the LCA's and the panhard rod are poly, which is not good for cornering, and not the best for a strong drag car. The torque arm mounts in the stock position on the tranny tailshaft, which is not good feature. With enough power to run 10's you want it mounted to the chassis, not the tranny. The "strut" tower brace (apparently they don't know the 4th Gen's don't have struts ) is not necessary. Not much info on the SFC's.

The best stuff you can buy is from the suspension specialists that started out with the 4th Gen - not Edelbrock. Look at the supporting vendors list, look at Spohn, look at BMR, look at UMI. These are the quality vendors who really know the 4th Gen. I'd rate Edelbrock far behind that group.

 

I take it "10 sec car" means a drag car? If so, then poly bushings are good, and boxed lca's are good too.
My Edelbrock panhard bar is holding up well, so are my cheap Lakewood lca's.

 

Not to mention that the parts from these vendors are cheaper then some of Edelbrock's offerings and the quality is much greater in my opinion.

 

Why do you want poly, when spherical rod ends are more rigid? Why do you want a heavy box-section LCA, when the light weight tubular Spohn LCA's can push a 3,525# 4th Gen into the 8's?

 

Why ask why? Try Bud Dry?

 

I have seen a post of broken Edelbroke torque arms. I would stick with a more well known suspension company. You can piece together a much nicer kit for the same price and it would preform better.

 

make sure you call the suspension experts first. poly on the street. spherical on the strip(or a lot of maintenance) rods ends are not cheap but need to be replaced yearly and inspected weekly. we destroyed a $40,000 race car because of a broken rod end with three seasons that put us into and over and on top of a guardrail. edelbrock kits are fine for what they are not for true 10 second rides.

 

I've seen snapped BMR torque arms too.

 

Yeah I put Edelbrock LCA's, Torque Arm, and Panhard rod on my car. Honestly, I would go back and go with Hotchkiss but Edelbrock stuff was cheaper. Edelbrock also carries some LCA's that are tubular with the metal ball joint ends. I know because I have some on my car. They are kind of hard to find but I got mine at JEGS.

Do not forget about UMI performance, they have alot of good stuff that is pretty well priced.