Yup, you read the title. I searched but couldn't find anything. I know the whole PR, DR, PF, DF routine, but never had to do it on an ABS car, and I read how to do it on this car and I think I can handle it.

But which to start with? Does it matter? Rather not waste my time and this super sweet and horribly expensive DOT 3 stuff...

 

ttt

 

Chiltons indicates you need to bleed the ABS unit first. If you have an active ABS code, you can't bleed it until you first "home" the ABS motors with a Tech-2 or similar bi-directional or scan tool. Start with the rearward bleeder on the ABS. Then front ABS bleeder, then bleed the lines from the MC to the ABS by cracking open the connections at the combination valve on the side of the ABS unit, right rear wheel, left rear wheel, right front wheel, etc. The Chilton's procedure is much more complicated and detailed than outlined above. Might be worth getting a copy of the procedure. There is also a different procedure depending on whether the system is ABS only or ABS+TCS.

 

IMHO, if the master cylinder has not been run dry and you did not have any ABS issues before starting to bleed, you just ignore the ABS and go on about your business.

I had to bleed my fronts after engine from the bottom removal (front lines disconnected). Never touched the ABS and everyting was fine.

Seems there would no harm in trying it first. If it does not work, then you can regroup with another plan.

 

Sounds good. My front brake lines were disconnected, but for about 5 minutes max so maybe I can get away with not doing the ABS.

Thanks for replying Shoebox.