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Bleeding brakes w/traction control

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Old Apr 24, 2005 | 12:20 AM
  #1  
defbear's Avatar
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Bleeding brakes w/traction control

Hey guys. In my Haynes manual it says if you have traction control that you have to have Tech 1 to bleed the brakes. Is this true? Also my right rear inside pad was worn to bare metal. The rotor is obviously SHOT. It made noise even when the pedal was not pressed. The outer pad is worn down very far but not as bad as the inner. Could that be a pad Caliper?
Old Apr 24, 2005 | 12:49 AM
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Re: Bleeding brakes w/traction control

Originally Posted by defbear
Hey guys. In my Haynes manual it says if you have traction control that you have to have Tech 1 to bleed the brakes. Is this true?
No. At least this was my experiance. Bleed the brakes on your car the same old fashioned way. Of course make sure not to let the brake fluid resurvier run dry, if you do then, in that case you would have to take it to the dealer.

Originally Posted by defbear
Also my right rear inside pad was worn to bare metal. The rotor is obviously SHOT. It made noise even when the pedal was not pressed. The outer pad is worn down very far but not as bad as the inner. Could that be a pad Caliper?
Try replacing "only" the brakes and maybe the rotor if its that bad. If the rubber boots on the piston calipers aren't ripped, the calipers should continue to work normal. Even if the boot is worn or ripped, the caliper will still do it's job. But you should rebuild the calipers if the boot is ripped. look at their install documents.www.installuniversity.com

Last edited by sir dyno; Apr 24, 2005 at 12:52 AM.
Old Apr 24, 2005 | 07:24 AM
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Re: Bleeding brakes w/traction control

Now a days it's almost the same price to buy a whole new caliper rather then rebuild it, also alot of people don't rebuild them either. But as stated before, just bleed the brakes like your used to, passanger rear to driver rear to passanger front to driver front.
Old Apr 24, 2005 | 08:54 AM
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Re: Bleeding brakes w/traction control

I wonder why the manual says it??? I'll go ahead and bleed them anyway. However I have depressed the caliper piston as much as I think it will go in but I cannot get the new pads to fit over the new rotor. I have actually sanded the new brake pads down. Its close but I can't seem to get it. Also the new pads have wear indicators on them but my old pads did not. The new ones also had small "nipples" (I guess you could call them) that I had to sand down to make them fit flush with the caliper. The surface area of the pads and shape are the same as the old ones though. I'll have to try to depress the piston more I guess?
Old Apr 24, 2005 | 01:19 PM
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Re: Bleeding brakes w/traction control

Originally Posted by Kataklysm
Now a days it's almost the same price to buy a whole new caliper rather then rebuild it, also alot of people don't rebuild them either. But as stated before, just bleed the brakes like your used to, passanger rear to driver rear to passanger front to driver front.
I did what you just said. Bought a pair of calipers because shops in my area didn't rebuild them and I didn't have the tools to rebuild them myself. Well, I bought some calipers at carquest and they are very, very heavy compared to the stock camaro calipers. With the installuniversity.com install instruction I'am going to rebuild my camaro calipers and put them back on and then sell my heavy aftermarket calipers.

Rebuild your caliper, or if you have to buy aftermarket caliper, then make sure the weight is the same. No sense in adding more weight to the front or rear end.
Old Apr 24, 2005 | 01:23 PM
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Re: Bleeding brakes w/traction control

Originally Posted by defbear
I wonder why the manual says it??? I'll go ahead and bleed them anyway. However I have depressed the caliper piston as much as I think it will go in but I cannot get the new pads to fit over the new rotor. I have actually sanded the new brake pads down. Its close but I can't seem to get it. Also the new pads have wear indicators on them but my old pads did not. The new ones also had small "nipples" (I guess you could call them) that I had to sand down to make them fit flush with the caliper. The surface area of the pads and shape are the same as the old ones though. I'll have to try to depress the piston more I guess?
Being really carfull, use your new brake pad along with a c-clamp depress the caliper till the piston is flat with the caliper edges.
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