Future_Z_Owner

Before anyone says anything, i did do a search.. Didnt come up with anything i needed. Now my 97 has a few miles on it and all the bolt ons you can imagine. I wont be doing engine work until i return from Iraq. So for the time being how can i make the car more efficient when it comes to putting the power to the ground? I have a new race built tranny from CPT on its way and a Vig 3200 stall also comming in. 315 Nitto 555R's comming in and some 3.73's too. So im good in that area. Suspension is a different game for me though. I know nothing about this stuff. SO what should i do to make the car more responsive? Thanks in advance

pwirch

Not positive it's right or not but here's what I'm doing after all my research...

Installed or sitting ready to be installed...
LCA Brackets
Heim/Heim LCA's
Heim/Heim Pan Hard
Pro Kit Springs
Koni 4/4 Shocks
Sub Frame Connectors
Poly End Links
Poly Motor Mount
Poly Tranny Mount
Tunnel Brace

Still Researching...
Sway Bars
Cradle
Front Arms

Again .. this is just what I'm doing but the car isn't a daily driver either anymore.

Future_Z_Owner

Thanks for the reply. Ill look into what you have suggested.

And come on people, 1 reply and 19 views? Is this guy dead on or does noone know what to suggest? No opinions?

danhr

poly bushing/mounts

umi 3 point Sub-frame connectors, the only company that makes tubular 3 point sub-frame connectors. Tubular is stronger than boxed, and of course 3 point is stronger than 2 point. They also recommend them for running the #4 suspension part.

bilstein hd shocks. Not as good as the koni's, but a lot cheaper, and a lot better than stockers. I don't think you will need koni's unless you are autocrossing. Do a search for revalved bilstein's. They are very popular among the autocross people.

umi torque arm w/ relocation kit. it relocated the mount of your torque arm to the tunnel, instead of the transmission. It also comes adjustable.

panhard rod bar (I went w/ umi just because I like their work, and everything else under my car is umi). also comes adjustable if you want.

rear sway bar, this varies with what you are looking for.

if you want to lower you car, which i dont, add springs in there. You won't see much improvement with the lca relocation brackets, unless your car is lowered. if you are staying with the stock ride height, I wouldn't waste money on lca relocatoin brackets.

after that it gets fairly hardcore. tubular/adj lca's, tubular k-member, tubular a-arms, etc.

1970z28

i am running stock suspension front and rear. i did box in my rear lower control arms. its all drag car.for a pict. go to www.huntsvilledragway.com scroll down to it says 2007 super chevyshow, click on the 2006 super chevy photos, scroll to bottom of page click on page 5 photo #63. that was stock lt1 with stock rear with 4.56 gears, p.g. tranny. leaving at 3200rpm.

12SCNDZ

Click on the picture below to check out my pictures. You can check the others out, in the photo album, also.

My set up will be:

AJE k-member (made for Pinto manual rack)
AJE manual rack
Spohn rod end a-arms
QA1 "R" front shocks
QA1 275# front springs
Spohn Chromemoly rod end torque arm with loop
Spohn, rod end lower control arms
Spohn frame connectors


Frank
CPT

Future_Z_Owner

wow 3 replys! Thanks for the help guys. And thanks frank for checking out this thread and replying.

95firehawk

Depends on what you want more, street or drag? If you stay away from hard cornering then I would say Eibach drag spings (and call Eibach or do a search to find complimentary shocks/struts), LCA's, LCA reloc. brackets, torque arm, and remove the front sway bar. That should net you some decent launches with good tires.

Soccerbum21

my setup is...
street. eibach prokit all 4 corners.
kyb agx shocks up front set on 6
summit adjustable drag shocks set on the 60/40 setting
poly endlinks on the sway bar

drag. stock rear spring swap
kyb agx set on 1 in front
summit drag shocks set on 60/40, thinking about going 70/30 but haven't tried it yet
remove the front sway bar

soundsl ike a lot of work, it's really not, since i replaced those sway bar studs with bolts, and the endlinks are easier to take off now. so the whole prep operation takes about an hour. most of that time is in jacking and standing/unstanding the car.


and be a lil bit more patient. usually takes about a week for a thread to get enough meaningful replies to make a descision

instead of asking what suspension you would like, do a search for drag shocks, suspension settings, springs, etc look for parts, not just a "bam here's what you need" list. nearly everyone on here runs a different setup.

good luck, and i hope you get exactly what you're looking for out of your f body