So i have adjust this damn thing and i can't figure out how.

I even went to these site and all they give you is instructions on how to put it on, not adjust it.



Looks like this.

Do i have to unbolt one end to adjust it?

and if so if i make it longer which way is that going to effect the center of it??

 

It looks like you will have to unbolt that one end, but i could be wrong since i didnt get mine from hotchkis. Making the rod longer will shift the rear axel to the drivers side.
When you remove the panhard bar make sure to jack the car up by the body, and do not fully tighten the bolts until the car is on the ground.

 

well ****. I tighted then put it back on the ground... I had the rear lifted a bit though while it was on jack stands.


Thanks thats what i needed to know.

 

If it only has the nut and threads on one end, you have to unbolt the end to adjust the length. If it has the nut and threads on both ends, it can be adjusted without removing it.

Lengthening the bar moves the body toward the passenger side, relative to the axle, shortening it moves the body toward the drivers side relative to the axle. You want to measure from the inside edge of the wheel to some fixed point on the chassis... e.g. subframe... and make sure the spacing is the same on both sides, with the car resting on the wheels at normal ride height.

 

I'm glad this topic came up. I need to adjust the one on my "new to me" car. Mine is a BMR with jam nuts on both ends, and it is shifted about an inch to the driver's side. Being that it's basically a triangle to the axle and the body, should I lengthen it approximately an 1.5 inches in terms of linear distance on the bar itself? Or is it more trial and error setting it up and down on the ground? I've got LG G2 super springs. Thanks!

Also, what loctite ... blue or red?

 

I use the blue locktite. The red is tough, but heating it with a torch will loosen it up. Not sure you want to do that on a painted bar.
Doug

 

There's not much in the way of "triangulation". Lengthen it 1" for starters. You should be able to measure it as you lengthen it, since you don't have to take it loose to adjust it.

If the chassis is actually offset 1" from being centered over the body, you should check the entire rear suspension carefully for damage. Unless someone totally screwed up the length of the panhard rod before they installed it, there's really no way for the chassis to shift 1" without some sort of damage.

 

That's me just eyeballing the difference between where the rear tires sit in relation to the fender lip. I haven't plumbed it. Maybe my eyes are thinking it's bigger than it is.

The car rides good, feels tight, but I have noticed some knocking when going over bumps and the bump stops have some chunks taken out, probably from the rims when being jacked up/down. Shocks are probably close to being out, look like SLP DeCarbon take-offs ... not ideal for the G2 springs.

 

Back up a second, I'm confused on the lengthen/shorten driver's passenger side thing.

The driver's side is the lower of the two, and is attached to the axle, while the upper is to the chassis. Wouldn't you shorten it to move the axle to toward the passenger side? Or do I have it reversed, which is not unlikely, not much sleep lately (newborn at home )

 

Everybody who posted above has said the same thing.... they just said it from a different point of reference.

Shortening the bar pulls the body toward the drivers side. That's looking at it with reference to the axle being fixed, and the body moving. If you assume the body is fixed, and the axle is moving, shortening the bar pulls the axle toward the passenger side.

 

Ah, got it. Thanks for the clarification!

 

Bump for clarification, rather than start a new thread (I bought the Hotchkis bar used)...

The Hotchkis has the nut ends on each side, so I'm assuming that I rotate the whole bar while it is attached? BUT...I don't see any flat spot to wrench/rotate the bar??? Help! Thanks!

 

Anyone?

 

Have you tried using your hands? Once the lock nuts are loose, it should turn. If not and there are no flats to use a wrench on, use a pipe wrench.

 

It won't turn with my hands. I had thought of the pipe wrench because there are no flats but I would have thought that there was a better way than taking off the paint with a pipe wrench....bad design IMO. Oh well