ABS delete..those who have done it come in..
03-24-2007, 05:38 PM
#1
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ABS delete..those who have done it come in..
ok well i started to do it and I read 97WS6PILOT's way to do it..but he only has 1 brake line going to the rear? my cars got two separate lines going to the rear....were some cars different?
03-24-2007, 09:23 PM
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03-25-2007, 05:08 PM
#6
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03-25-2007, 07:36 PM
#8
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You need to get a bubble flare tool and use 10 mm x 1.00 metric bubble flare nuts. On the four channel cars, the master cylinder will use two 11 mm x 1.50 nut (it might also use a 10 mm x 1.25 nut, but I am fairly certain the previous nut is the correct piece) in case you destroy yours for some reason. Your proportioning valve may or may not use different nuts, possibly an inverted double flare vice a bubble flare. To be technically sound, you should use 4.75 mm metric line with these nuts, but 3/16" tubing will work in the real world (3/16 line is actually larger than the metric line). For the rear brakes, use the corresponding 10 mm x 1.0 "T" fitting to split your single line to both wheels.
Yes, the ABS light will definitely illuminate.
Yes, the ABS light will definitely illuminate.
03-26-2007, 08:25 PM
#9
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im not gonna use a valve. my friend has his done and didnt use one and his car stops fine. What nuts are you talking about the ones that go INTO the master cyl? never heard of a bubble flare either
03-26-2007, 08:34 PM
#10
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Location: Florence, Kentucky
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You need to get a bubble flare tool and use 10 mm x 1.00 metric bubble flare nuts. On the four channel cars, the master cylinder will use two 11 mm x 1.50 nut (it might also use a 10 mm x 1.25 nut, but I am fairly certain the previous nut is the correct piece) in case you destroy yours for some reason. Your proportioning valve may or may not use different nuts, possibly an inverted double flare vice a bubble flare. To be technically sound, you should use 4.75 mm metric line with these nuts, but 3/16" tubing will work in the real world (3/16 line is actually larger than the metric line). For the rear brakes, use the corresponding 10 mm x 1.0 "T" fitting to split your single line to both wheels.
Yes, the ABS light will definitely illuminate.
Yes, the ABS light will definitely illuminate.
Last edited by 97WS6Pilot; 03-26-2007 at 08:56 PM.
03-26-2007, 09:02 PM
#11
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It appears that since you have traction control you will need these fittings. I'm assuming that the all the lines are the same size since I don't have traction control. So its just a matter of making sure the fronts go to fronts and the rears go to the rears.
6 3/16" inverted flare fittings
2 3/16" 3 way tee's
1 qt brake fluid
Tube bender Rented from Autozone
Metric Double Flare Tool Kit Rented from Autozone
Tube cutter I already had this
Here is a how to double flare brake lines:
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/
All the tubing you need is on the car. No need to buy brake line. No need for a proportioning valve on the back brakes because fronts lock up first.
6 3/16" inverted flare fittings
2 3/16" 3 way tee's
1 qt brake fluid
Tube bender Rented from Autozone
Metric Double Flare Tool Kit Rented from Autozone
Tube cutter I already had this
Here is a how to double flare brake lines:
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/
All the tubing you need is on the car. No need to buy brake line. No need for a proportioning valve on the back brakes because fronts lock up first.
03-26-2007, 11:32 PM
#12
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Location: Paragould Ar
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SJM manufacturing makes an ABS delete kit that comes with a flare tool, all fitting, a proportioning valve for the rear and a line loc. My kit was 240. It even came with new lines from the master cylinder to the valve and line lock. Very complete kit and detailed instructions. They even show you how to make the abs light go out.
I just installed mine about a week ago but i went to a Billingsley manual brake set up at the same time so the lines for the master cylinder wouldnt work. Very easy to do.
I just installed mine about a week ago but i went to a Billingsley manual brake set up at the same time so the lines for the master cylinder wouldnt work. Very easy to do.
03-27-2007, 05:33 AM
#13
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On our CMC prepped road race 4th gens, we TEE off the brake line that run to the front brakes and the same can be done to a 4 channel rear, I suppose.
Instead of cobbling together existing parts and re-flaring lines, we use Earl's -3AN adaptors out of the MC and to and Earl's -3 to metric TEEs
We then run -3 steel braided brake lines, avaialble at most any dirt track shop from the MC to the TEEs.
Instead of cobbling together existing parts and re-flaring lines, we use Earl's -3AN adaptors out of the MC and to and Earl's -3 to metric TEEs
We then run -3 steel braided brake lines, avaialble at most any dirt track shop from the MC to the TEEs.
03-27-2007, 08:53 AM
#14
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Location: Florence, Kentucky
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On our CMC prepped road race 4th gens, we TEE off the brake line that run to the front brakes and the same can be done to a 4 channel rear, I suppose.
Instead of cobbling together existing parts and re-flaring lines, we use Earl's -3AN adaptors out of the MC and to and Earl's -3 to metric TEEs
We then run -3 steel braided brake lines, avaialble at most any dirt track shop from the MC to the TEEs.
Instead of cobbling together existing parts and re-flaring lines, we use Earl's -3AN adaptors out of the MC and to and Earl's -3 to metric TEEs
We then run -3 steel braided brake lines, avaialble at most any dirt track shop from the MC to the TEEs.
What is CMC prepped? Is that a shop?
Last edited by 97WS6Pilot; 03-27-2007 at 08:58 AM.
