ok well i started to do it and I read 97WS6PILOT's way to do it..but he only has 1 brake line going to the rear? my cars got two separate lines going to the rear....were some cars different?

 

Not sure if some cars are different, but I know my car only had one line going to the back also.

 

3 channel have 1 line and 4 channel have 2

 

IE

ABS = 3 channel
ABS & TC = 4 channel


as fo deleting it, just t the rear lines together, they are t'ed off the single line at the rear axle in the 3 channel cars anyway

 

Wrong forum. "Brakes" do not belong on "LT1/LT4 ENGINE Tech".

Moving.

 

what size fittings would I need?

 

Would the ABS light come on if you remove the controller?

 

You need to get a bubble flare tool and use 10 mm x 1.00 metric bubble flare nuts. On the four channel cars, the master cylinder will use two 11 mm x 1.50 nut (it might also use a 10 mm x 1.25 nut, but I am fairly certain the previous nut is the correct piece) in case you destroy yours for some reason. Your proportioning valve may or may not use different nuts, possibly an inverted double flare vice a bubble flare. To be technically sound, you should use 4.75 mm metric line with these nuts, but 3/16" tubing will work in the real world (3/16 line is actually larger than the metric line). For the rear brakes, use the corresponding 10 mm x 1.0 "T" fitting to split your single line to both wheels.

Yes, the ABS light will definitely illuminate.

 

im not gonna use a valve. my friend has his done and didnt use one and his car stops fine. What nuts are you talking about the ones that go INTO the master cyl? never heard of a bubble flare either

 

WTF? He doesn't need to run new tubing from the Master Cylinder. He just needs to cut the tubing he already has and connect it with standard sized inverted flare fittings (3/16")and double metric flares made with a tool from Autozone.

 

It appears that since you have traction control you will need these fittings. I'm assuming that the all the lines are the same size since I don't have traction control. So its just a matter of making sure the fronts go to fronts and the rears go to the rears.

6 3/16" inverted flare fittings
2 3/16" 3 way tee's
1 qt brake fluid

Tube bender Rented from Autozone
Metric Double Flare Tool Kit Rented from Autozone
Tube cutter I already had this

Here is a how to double flare brake lines:
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/

All the tubing you need is on the car. No need to buy brake line. No need for a proportioning valve on the back brakes because fronts lock up first.

 

SJM manufacturing makes an ABS delete kit that comes with a flare tool, all fitting, a proportioning valve for the rear and a line loc. My kit was 240. It even came with new lines from the master cylinder to the valve and line lock. Very complete kit and detailed instructions. They even show you how to make the abs light go out.

I just installed mine about a week ago but i went to a Billingsley manual brake set up at the same time so the lines for the master cylinder wouldnt work. Very easy to do.

 

On our CMC prepped road race 4th gens, we TEE off the brake line that run to the front brakes and the same can be done to a 4 channel rear, I suppose.

Instead of cobbling together existing parts and re-flaring lines, we use Earl's -3AN adaptors out of the MC and to and Earl's -3 to metric TEEs

We then run -3 steel braided brake lines, avaialble at most any dirt track shop from the MC to the TEEs.

 

Ya, that would work too. However, the standard brass fittings can be bought at any auto parts store for less than $20 for all of them. The cutting and flaring only took me about 2hrs and looked very professional. I practiced on some of the line I cut off before I did the actual flares and it turned out right the first time. Now that I know how to flare lines I'm considering putting a hard line fuel system together. That should save alot of money over running -8 hose the whole length of the car.

What is CMC prepped? Is that a shop?

 

How Do You Get The Abs Light Out?