lI didn't bleed the rear when I installed the race brakes/calibers. I bleed the front by opening the valve and allowing fluid to start running out. Didn't even have to pump the pedal and it was bleed. The fitting on the Aerospace calibers is right at the top and after drained they are good to go!

Glad the Swagelok fitting worked for you too. So many buy new hoses that cost $$$ which is not necessary. My fittings have been working for several months now without a leak!

 

i'll be doing this next summer when i step up to a 9" rearend (no 3-channel abs, so i might as well save myself the 8 lbs).

 

if all you do is go down the quarter mile and never drive your car on the street, I'd say its a great way to save 8lbs.

If you drive on the street, I don't think 8lbs is worth the extra stopping distance in those Holy **** moments when somebody wrecks in front of you on the interstate. Especially if you drive in the rain all the time. I'd rather be .00001 second slower than dead.

Also, ABS sucks in the snow. But nobody with any sense drives their Camaros in the snow. If I ever move north, my winter beater will not have abs.

 

Nice post but not engine related.
I deleted all the "you're dumb to remove it" posts. This thread is about how to do it, not whether to do it.
Thanks for the info. I'll be deleting mine when I get the 12 non-ABS rear with spool.

 

Thanks AL SS590 M6,
With a Moser Spooled rear (Like I have) the ABS will not work.

I guess some people that are reading my post are not reading my SIG; It clearly states "DRAG STRIP ONLY" and 4:56 Gears.
That pretty much sums it up. I have never heard of anyone running 4:56 gears on the street and I suppose OPEN HEADER could be a dead giveaway!

1993 Z28 HT, 383 6" rods, 12-1CR, Lloyd's heads/intake; 2.055" x 1.6" Manly SS valves, A4 8pt cage, Drag strip only; Turbo 400,w/ transbrake built by Kenny Wells, Turbo action Cheeta shifter. 4:56-1 Moser 9", Jet Hot LT's, open headers

 

now the only kicker is adding a line loc for the serious racer!!!

Chris

 

can anyone give me the info on what parts were used with this delete? i emailed 8850 but i got no reply. i would like to do this delete my ABS soon and i could use the part list that he used.

 

SS-300-3 Union Tee $18.80
SS-400-6-3 Reducing Union $8.90

These appear to be SS fittings, they have double compresson fittings and should be good to 3000 PSI

Swagelok

Alabama Fluid System Technologies Inc.
Pelham AL

205-988-4812

 

Sorry but I never received your email. I think JIMS1999CONVZ28 has pretty much spelled it out for you but here is a little more info and where I bought mine.

http://www.mustangmods.com/data/440/absdel.jpg

The lines are 3/16" and 6 mm. The 1/4" fitting works on the 6 mm. No flaring is required. These are high pressure compression fittings.

(1) Swagelok union tee SS-300-3 $17.90
(1) Swagelok reducing union SS-400-6-3 $8.50

http://www.mustangmods.com/data/440/fittings.jpg

Houston Center Valve and Fitting, 713 527 0233. It's the same as order number 97179975. Invoice number 401345.

Note: Order an extra set of ferules just in case your lose one. They are pretty small and easy to drop.

I would recommend a proportioning valve for the rear brakes. I have not installed one but it would be safer. I have tried a couple panic stops from slow speeds only and the car stops fine.

Let me know if you have anymore questions.

 

Thanks,
From the company's letter head they have three locations, do an internet search and you will see where the closest warehouse is to you.
I would definately order extra compression sleeves/collars, they are small and as stated above if you drop one..... your screwed. Shipping was not cheep for me, $12.00, but labor and paperwork is expensive.

I did not use a porportioning valve, because I read where so many guys purchased them only to crank the valve wide open. When I bled the rear brakes I got very little fluid to come out at each 'pump up'. No air though!
If I had to do it over again I would ream out the inside of the pipes were I did the cut with the mini tubing cutter. Maybe that burr on the inside is causing some restriction, but lets face it. The front brakes do about 70% of the stopping anyway. I don't want the rear brakes to lock up. I also decided to repace the calipers (not retracting; the car sat 2.5 years outside) turn the rotors ( I never do that unless their warped) and got HAWK ceramic pads for extra stopping power. My set up looks like crap but it is a race car and it works... I think. I have not driven the car except off the trailer, on the dyno, and back on the trailer. I will know soon enough at the track after more tuning this Friday in Tampa if I will make it to Bradenton Drag Strip Friday Night.

Jim