Rottluver

Since when is that a bad thing? My understanding of rotors is that the more flat surface you have, the better the braking will be. Slotted and crossdrilled rotors take away quite a bit of that flat space, thereby lessening the ability of the brakes to perform at maximum potential, and also weaken the rotor itself. From everything I have read/heard/seen, plain flat rotors are the best for pure stopping ability. If you are going for the *Bling* factor, then the slotted, crossdrilled rotors are sure to give you what you are looking for. Granted the ones you refer to are larger in size, but I would guess that is to make up for the fact that there is less total surface area to use for braking once the slots and holes are drilled in.

I guess it just all depends on what you want. I, personally, want the best possible braking I can get out of my car and could care less about *Bling*. But I don't show my car & I prefer the stealth look over the flashy look. But again, that is just me personally. If you don't mind giving up performance, the slotted, crossdrilled rotors are sure to add to the looks of any car. I just wouldn't count on those rotors lasting nearly as long as the "plain" variety. From what I know, they tend to warp and/or crack MUCH easier then "plain" rotors in general. I am not being brand specific here, so perhaps the ones you spoke of are stronger, but I wouldn't trust something that has been weakened severely by cuts and holes to last all that well......

Just my extremely humble $.02

Darrin

Geoff Chadwick

Problem with some drilled, slotted (or both) rotors is that is can be done poorly. If so the rotors may crack over time at the outer egde.

If you look at a stock "sports car" brake rotor - then look at say a 92' Ford Taurus, the rotor is one slab of metal. Done.

The C5 rotors are two slabs that are seperated by vanes. This is done to increase the mass that can absorb heat (slabs) and to eliminate it as fast as possible (vanes between them)

Drilling and Slotting attempts to remove hot gasses in the same way, however the goal there is not so much to cool the rotor, but remove any pockets of gas that are caught between the rotor and pad. If done well it does increase brake performance. Then again, so does staying with the $26 napa rotors and getting better pads.

Biggest problem to never forget with the baer kit, yes it is superior in ability, but you cant use off the shelf parts. You cant just walk down to the local auto store and get loaded up on everything you'd need to fix your brakes. It just doesnt happen. The advantage in that regard makes the C5 upgrade more then worthwhile... Also again, used parts makes the world better

I got all 4 used C5 calipers and the front brackets for $170 shipped. Not the best deal, but not horrid. I can chuck the rears, they're worthless to me. Then I just get the pins, brake lines, rotors and pads. Front rotors were $27 each, pads were $45 for both front wheels. So in the end $260+$170+100+$40+$30. Roughly $600 for the upgrade with ceramic pads, new rotors, and stainless lines. And as we've seen, it can be done cheaper.

Highlander

The point with the C5 brakes which I chose, was bang for the buck... and that my pop's z06 brakes VERY Well so why change it...

Maybe I'll go with stopforce rotors and give it a go if my OEM GM Slotted and drilled discs warp easily and/or crack...

They costed me 105 each... So not a bad option.

lateapex

Thanks for the offer Ken, but most of my bolts have arrived now. If I decide to make more brackets, I may get in touch. The salespeople at my bolt supplier who have helped me in the past told the “new guy” to help me this time. They hate to see me come in the door. I think I am their only customer who has returned lockwashers for being out of tolerance. And what made it worse was that they were only about .009” out. They thought I was crazy, but the lockwashers they get for me now are always right on spec.

PS For those comparing prices, the $809.00 total kit price includes shipping for those in the states. To compare apples with apples, say maybe $780 plus shipping.

TCredTA95

im definately in 4 a 2nd batch got the money ready to go. But no pressure on Bob.

Rottluver

I was just curious, what OEM Genreal Motors car do you have that comes with slotted and drilled rotors? I didn't know GM ever made those.......

Darrin

Highlander

They are made specifically for the COrvette... I dont have a part number right now as I threw the box

Since i have the C5 brakes on Thanks bob.

Rottluver

They came standard on the Vette? Do you know what year?

Highlander

No they are not standard.. you can order them through GMPP

JWBerk94Z

HHmmmm...............does anyone else know the part number of those rotors from GMPP. That sounds like what I would like to try when/if I do C5 brakes.

Rottluver

Aaahh gotcha. They are not OEM then, they are a performance part replacement.........now it makes more sense.

lateapex

They are part #’s 88926731 and 88926732 for the left and right front rotors. I called GM Delco/DuraStop about these when they came out. They recommended that they not be used for road racing. They told me that their cross-drilled rotors would crack just like everyone else’s in high speed competitive use. They are quality 30,000 psi tensile strength castings, and the holes are radius-chamfered, but the holes will still create stress risers.

Team Chevy said they can get them if anyone wants them; at least they meet minimum OEM quality standards.

Highlander

They didn't tell me that when I bought them

anyways.. if they crack... 105 to replace only... so its not that bad

I'll go for the originals if they do $60

Carlos01SS

Me too, I just read this thread dammit!!!

I would LOVE to buy a set for my 01SS...
No pressure on Bob either, and, if he decides to make some more, COUNT ME IN, my credit card is more than ready for this.

ta4me

where to find braided front c5 lines and braided lt1 rear lines? Also, 1Litre of super blue brake fluid?

Chris P