Well I know alot of people complaine about the cost of doing an alternator relocation like the madman kits etc. They usually cost 150-200 bucks for a piece of steel and belt, and no more worrying about IF the belt will slip on high HP cars bc this still uses the tensioner!

I was the same so decided since I fab everything in my car I gotta be able to make something work!

Here is what I came up with!

All that is needed...

4 1/2 angle grinder with 1/16 cut off disk and 80grit flapper wheel.
Saftey glasses bc the wheel may blow up in your face like one of mine did!
6 inch piece of 1/8 thick by 1" wide strap steel
3/8 clearence drill
42"inch belt (i just measured roughly may very)


I will make a good write up once I have time later on with pics....

Fits awesome in my 3rd gen so should work no issues in a 4th gen as I think you guys MAY have a tad more room between the rails.

I have about 1/2 inch play between the alt and rail.

Note: I still need to clean it and paint it :P

Also hope this comes in handy BC I had to drop my motor ins for the 3rd time just to test fit before people did this and find out it doesnt fit!

note: I do not take responsibility if you cut your bracket like mine and it doesnt fit your vehicle

Jay

 

Nice job!! That's using your head to save some cash for other mods!! I will be using your idea. Thanks a bunch!

 

That looks good! Good job.

 

subscribing

 

Okay, just want to make sure I'm seeing this right. So, after removing your A/C compressor, you used the existing A/C compressor bracket with just that 6" x 1/8" steel strap modification to mount your alternator to???

 

Looks like he used a grinder to cut away part of the bracket to bring the alternor closer to the engine. Looks like a cheap way to move the alternator down but sucks about loosing the power steering. Im going to modify the stock accessory bracket and cut off the top part of the alt bracket and use the lower alt bracket and put a pulley on it. 4th gen engine bays looks soo much nicer without the big alternator out of the way.

 

Exactly what I did Ill take some pics of it apart when I get in the garage this week sometime. My original idea was to use heim joints instead of the strap steel just strength but was to test my idea and it will work!

Jay

 

well when i measured the belt i took about and inch and half off my measurement figuring with the tensioner down and belt stretch it would fit (40inch) went to summit and bought one but nope deffinitly need a 41.5-42inch belt.

Sorry on not updating a how too I havent been in the garage since making the bracket.

Jay

 

Just wanted to add, I did this today and I needed a 41" belt. It is a good design in my opinion. Very solid and lines up nicely. I had made my last on but it was just a "slide type" (off a 300ZX) that I used to tighten the belt. I must say, it's nice to have a tensioner again. The other worked okay BUT, when it would get wet it would slip. I'm hoping this will take care of that. I used a band saw and a dremel to do all the cutting and it was not to hard. I would highly suggest draw lines on your bracket so you don't make a mistake.....you only get one shot! And, thanks jay_rich.