I'm wanting to go to a remote w/p setup and I need some pros and cons from you guys. The reason I want this, is to clean up the engine bay, access to opti whenever needed without a full day of tear down, solve some leaking issues that I've had in the past or in the future. It's leaking again and I am going to fix it but I'm thinking ahead. Where could I get the adapter plates? And how could I keep my heat? (Like I have any heat now) I'm also going to remove my ac system on the account that I've had nothing but problems with it even after spending a butt load of money to fix all the freon leaks. Thanks ahead of time guys, any info will be helpful.

 

No one makes a remote water pump setup for an LT1 in a plug-and-play kit. I THINK there is one or two members on here who are doing what you're looking for though. Have you tried a search?

 

I searched the internet but I really didn't have any luck. I pretty much firgured that I would have to do this from scratch but I just wanted to see if anyone else has done this or thought about doing it. I really just need to find the adapter plates that bolt to the block and I know where I can get everything else. Now all I need is time and MONEY. LOL Thanks man

 

If you go on the internet on ebay motors there are some that have the electric waterpump with the same connections on the sides with the three bolts. The electric water pump connects into the housing and they give you all parts needed for hook up. They even give you the cap to seal the camshaft. for no leaks. ill have to get back on that though i cant find it at the moment but i know for sure they have some nice ones.

 

He isn't looking for an electric water pump that uses the existing water pump housing. He is looking for a REMOTE electric water pump that can be located away from the engine. The "cap" doesn't seal the camshaft, it seals the hole in the front of the block for the water pump drive

 

I have a CSR electric water pump on the car now, I like it and it keeps the motor cool but I want to clean up the front of the engine and make it easier to get to the opti. All I really need to find are the adapter plates to bolt to the block, and have some AN fittings welded to them. I also want to keep my heat because I never know what its gonna feel like outside here in Louisiana.

 

I almost went this route in my Vega. I took my stock pump down to a local CNC shop and they said they could make block plates for about $60 out of 1/2" plate. The problem you'll run into is the hoses. You can't screw in fittings because they won't be able to turn past each other (the holes are too close). I bought 5/8" (or was it 3/4") hose bibs and was going to braze them into the block plates. From there, two hoses would exit the block and dump into a dual-inlet remote thermostat (Moroso just came out with one). A single hose would exit the thermostat housing and dump into the radiator. From the radiator to the suction side of the pump there would be one hose and then from a dual-feed pump there would be two hoses that would feed the block.

Cost? About a grand. Since my Vega is extremely simple I wanted to keep it that way. For my application, I bought a low-mount alternator bracket, kept the stock pump, and found a couple of hoses at the parts store that I hacked up to hook up my radiator. It's 'very' tight but it works. If you are running accessories, forget about it. My alternator is my "accessory." Best part? No rotating parts that I can touch, except for the crank/alternator area (about a foot wide, stuffed behind the rad support). Very clean.

 

Jeggs sells remote WaterPumps. I am considering the Jeggs brand pump. I have considered this for an S_10 build app w/ an LT1_383. Some custom parts would be required for an LT1 bolt on. I think this could work very good with alot of anticlutter on the front of the engine. I will run the rad in the rear pick_up box.

B.

 

mzgp5x,
The issue isn't the remote water pump. Those are easy to come by. You need to have block plates made, and you need to join the two feeds out from the engine into one (using a junction block) or modify your radiator for a dual feed return.

 

I will fabricate/ machine these pieces on my own. The task is to have equal balanced flow to each side of the engine. ie... a flow balance valve. B.

 

nvm I posted non sense. I re-read and understand now. haha