I have a stock crank pulley on my LT1 now. What will an ATI damper do. I'm asking because I did drop my stock crank pulley the last time I was installing it. Is that going to cause a problem.
I have to put a blower pulley on for my D1SC and I don't want any problems this summer.
Also when I got my motor built and the keyway on the crank stuck out not allowing the crank pulley to fully seat on the crank. So I had to notch the crank hub with a grinder. Does this mean I have a 96-97 crank designed to work with a reluctor ring in my 95 ?

 

Did you use the correct crank key for the 95, with the notch cut out for the correct length damper hub:



The ATI will provide better damping at higher RPM than the stocker. If you dropped the stocker, you need to see if you damaged the rubber ring that connects the inner and outer metal rings. If that is broken, the damper is useless.

With the blower, you need a keyed hub to prevent slipping. You can have the stock hub keyed (although it sounds like you may have ground away some of that area), or you can use the ATI keyed hub. However, I have seen the ATI damper hub crack at the key slot in two different high boost (20+psi) blower applications. The solution is to reinforce the outer diameter of the ATI hub, and to use double keyways on the crank/hub. I've seen one case where they were able to add the second keyway to the crank WITHOUT pulling the crank.

 

I think the guy who did my engine used a 96 block. So when I got the motor and swapped over everything from my 95 the hub did not fit because my hub was not notched for the key. Do you think I could still use my hub.

I've never noticed the inner and outer ring on the stock crank pulley. I used it for about 500miles after I dropped it.

 

I think we've been through this already. The blocks and cranks are all the same. The only things that are different are the key, the reluctor gear and the hub length.

 

[QUOTE=stephenpen;6255319]I think the guy who did my engine used a 96 block. So when I got the motor and swapped over everything from my 95 the hub did not fit because my hub was not notched for the key. Do you think I could still use my hub. QUOTE]

You're obviously mixing your 95/96 parts. If your car is a 95, use the 95 key, hub and timing chain cover.

My 96s didn't even have keys installed in the forward position of the crank; only keys for the timing chain set crank gear and reluctor rings were installed. Only one key is each crank, not two.

On the 96 LT1, the hub is not broached to receive a Woodruff key. The 95 hub is probably the same; no broach. You can have yours broached for about $70 and install a key if you want. In fact, Golen Engines sells all their LTs that way.

They'll broach your hub if you send it to them; you'll have to check with them on what they charge.

I recently read that someone one bought one already broached on the web, but I don't recall where he bought it. if you want to go that route, a GOOGLE search would probably turn up the site where he bought it.

Jake

 

thunder racing carries em http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=4&pcid=239

 

Not to hijack, but if using a 96/97 shortblock (without hub) I can't transfer over my 95 hub to it? Does this mean I need a 96/97 hub?

 

You can put a 93-95 hub on it, as long as you don't use the CKP reluctor gear, and as long as you used the correct notched 93-95 key. You don't need the reluctor gear, unless you are trying to run OBD-II, and keep the misfire detection diagnostic.

 

No it's going to stay OBD1, so I take the key out of my old 95 crank and put it in the 97 crank in the new engine, along with the 95 hub and new 95 timing chain and cover and everything will be ok to run?

 

You shouldn't need to change the timing chain, unless yours is worn.

 

Well mine has 170k on it, and the new shortblock only has 53k and is here on the stand, so along with new cam, so it's getting a new timing chain too. How does one change the key?

 

The key is there to hold the crank timing chain sprocket in position, and the 96/97 key is wider so it will also hold the CKP reluctor gear in position.

When you pull the crank sprocket off (with a gear puller), the key can be removed. It just sits in the keyway in the crank.

 

If you lost the crank key where the best place to buy a replacement?