Just curious, been real bored lately with the car being down. I have 2 extra optis laying around. They are spares if the other opti dies, more specific the opti sensor as the rotors are cut down.
Anyways, I hear that the Optical sensor is available s other manufacturers use it in there vehicles. Any truth to this?
And the NTN bearing may actually be available, or an alternative is. When you have a shipyard machinist of over 40 years working for you on special projects for the government, you learn allot about how to get things.
But the sensor is what I am asking about.

 

what really irks me about the opti is supposedly if it gets wet it ruins it , but i dont see how as the optical sensor it self is all sealed up , any other distributor can get wet and if you dry it out its fine, and as often as these damn things go out and at the price they are is bull**** , and wtf is with the 150 buck cap and rotor
its such a shame that u cant just replace the optical sensor,

oh and only the 4.3l l99 uses it and most b-bodys with lt1 and l99 i may have left one or two out

 

Apparently the sensor was used in Nissan, Mitsubishi and a Chrylser 3.0 litre V6. Still tracking it.
Here is a bad sensor. The Opti was dry, no bad water pump. This came through the plug for the ECM. Dielectric grease may have saved this one.

 

please find out more on this 3.0 v-6 having this sensor

 

Yes.... mid-80's Mitsu/Chrysler 3.0L V6 engines used an optical cam position sensor, mounted in the distributor housing. Mitsu/Chrysler just has the common sense to mount the distributor on top of the engine, and not under the water pump.....

This is documented in the book "Chevrolet Fuel Injection" by Ben Watson:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...0target=_blank

 

[QUOTE=RACEON;6184036]Apparently the sensor was used in Nissan, Mitsubishi and a Chrylser 3.0 litre V6. Still tracking it.

so can we use these optical sensors from the mid 80's chrys mitsu 3.0 engines?

 

I guess I need to go to a salvage yard and see one of these. The real question comes down to availability and if they are the same part.
interesting
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productd...pe=194&PTSet=A

 

if it would work thats damn cheaper than 350 ya know and you wouldnt have to pull the whole distributor, cause im in need of one right now i gotta high resolution circuit code now

 

Check your wiring harness before you jump to the conclusion that you need a new Opti.

 

i was gonna ask you that injuneer about how to test the high resolution circuit and ,because i start to get this horrible mis where it barley will rev once the temp gets to 160


oh i checked the opti harness from the opti to where it connects the male plug on the side of the intake manifold and it all looked good no corrosion or damage to the harness


but i was thinking my icm could be gettin heat soaked and messing up,

cause i scanned it a couple of weeks ago and got the code for the high resolution curcuit low

its pissing me off because my car runs about 150 deg cruisin but it will rise when i start ropin on it then once it reaches 160 170 it starts missing really really bad and my tach start jumpin crazy as **** when i try to accelerate and u can hear the engine missing like crazy on multiple cylinders but anything under 160 and it purrs like a kitten

 

I agrees, as I have found more than one harness corroded.
I am just trying to find cost savings. Granted some people have no issues with Optis, etc, but some do. Installation and fitment are very important on longevity of these parts.

 

when i checked my opti harness yesterday the pins and stuff looked brand new

 

The opti portion is not fully sealed especially on the first design! There are 3 drian holes on the bottom of the unit Which leads me to believe that moisture enters through them rather than escaping! The second design has the vent but with the vaccum line installed it then becomes sealed from external moisture as well as provides some suction for any moisture that would be in there. I'm wondering if sealing the holes up might be the best answer! Also there was an article on how to make a 1st design in to a vented one.

http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16758/index.html

 

A non vented opti is going to die sooner if you plug the holes on the bottom. Moisture or any ozone created from the cap and rotor would not have any way to escape.

 

I am pushing 300,000 miles with my 93 opti. A new cap and rotor, but the optical part is fine. and like Fred said above, check your wiring before you write it up as the opti being bad.

I could have SWORE mine went out last year and it ended up being a bad connection at the ICM. :S