Here is the problem last night i washed the car and only the car not the motor. The car was fine, when i went to start it this morning the car didnt want to start. Here is a list of the things i did to check 1st i checked the fuel pressure not with an actual gauge but with a simlpe trick of pulling the nitrous fuel line connected from the schradder valve and when i put the key in on postion the fuel didnt come up it took several cranks for the fuel to come out, I had a walboro 255 lph fuel pump put in about a year ago and i had noticed since they installed it that it took about 7- 10 turns of the motor for it to fire. I dont know if they installed it correctly. My friend who usely does work on my car said he thinks it is a ignition problem cause when i crank the car the stock tach rpms doesnt jump up or either does my autometer tach. I checked this with my stock coil and nothing still no fire i changed the icm with a new one and nothing. It leads me to beleive that it could be one of three things the opti that was changed about 5000 miles ago supposedly with a gm optispark my mistake was buying it from (allignition), or the computer which i highly doubt, or lastly a bad connection somewhere. Some one tell what you think and how to check if it is the opti with out pulling it out. Basically i want to take it to my friends shop a have him put a fuel pressure gauge and get a scanner and see what it reads. Tell me what you think about the fuel pump thing, i read about the check ball or some installation kit maybe they didnt't install. Thanks for reading this horror story and the help.

 

Someone must have some input.

 

Anyone ?

 

So it currently has no spark? Does it have any codes stored? The "long crank" issue should be checked with a fuel pressure gauge. If it does not produce about 40 psi with just the key on once (not running) and hold it for a couple of hours, then there is most likely a leak somewhere. The most common issue is poor installation of these pumps. The hose connecting the pump to the sending unit usually disconnects or springs a leak and causes pressure drop and a "poor prime" condition.

 

There is no codes and there is no spark at the coil or the plugs.

 

Start with this- Check both the coil and ignition control module. If you do not know how to do this, remove the two bolts holding the coil/ignition control module and take it to someone who can test the coil with a DVOM and can test the control module. Sometimes a local parts store will have a control module tester.

 

That above is a good start that I would second.

If that is ok, or if you wanna check some of the components first, then go here and follow the directions he provides. Man, you can learn alot from this site.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test

Make a donation as well. Buy him a beer. lol.....worth it.

-Ivan

 

Update. I had a stock opti that i had laying around i put it on and it fired up. Now the only problem is that the rotor is rubbing on the cap of this distibutor, (The old one i had laying around) should i repace the cap and rotor and use it or get a new opti.

 

Dont keep throwing money at it. If you can fix the issue with a new cap and rotor then go for it. But find out why and what is causing that rubbing. If it's a worn bearing/bushing inside the opti, then it's gonna do the same thing after time to your new cap rotor. Do you have some play in the shaft of the opti???

-Ivan

 

There is no play in the shaft but it is just the tip that has an arch on it so i will take a chance and just replace the cap and rotor.

 

Sounds like a plan that I would make.

Let us know how it turns out brotha.

Good luck,
Ivan