first time breaking apart a LT1 motor, and hit a snag. The timing cover doesn't come off without removing the crank hub. How do i get it off? I tried a 3 jaw puller but the main threaded part didn't fit. Is there a tool i need to track down?

I made this little webpage to post my pict for your help. Forgive the basicness of it, its my first webpage.

http://www.geocities.com/jpzaffos/94...eshooting.html

 

there is a tool from snap on that grabs the 3 arms on the crank hub and pulls it off. it was like 160 for the part. I've also seen ppl use a 4inch 3 jaw gear puller to pull them off. they grab the pully though when they take them off.

 

so you bolt the balancer back on and pull it off together? Just making sure of the procedure, I don't want to strip out the crank threads.

 

No, you don't put the pulley back on. You might want to do a search (it's been talked about alot), but you can use a normal SBC balancer puller and something strong inserted into the bolt hole to push against. I think there might have even been a video posted on here on how to do it.

 

make sure you take the hub bolt out first.

go to autozone. rent the puller made by Chrysler, its free. it works like a charm, i struggled with the same problem as you and this thing was the ticket. good luck..

 

awesome, I'll try the rental tool this weekend and let you know how it goes.

 

what i used was a normal puller with bolts i bought from home depo 3 4inch long ones and one 3 inch bolt that had an allen head on it so the puller tip could fit in the middle of it

 

just use the 3 jaw puller on it.
1-put the bolt in the center of the hub
2-use the pullerwith the claws behind the hub and the center on the bolt

 

All you need is a 3 jaw puller and either a 3/8 or 1/2in grade 8 allen bolt either 3 or 4 inches long...probably could get away with standard stuff but why risk it.

Do this


Put the end of the bolt into the hole, after removing the bolt, and the end of the puller into the socket. I taped the threads just to make myself feel better although it was probably not necessary. This pic is after I had the cover of, just to illustrate the idea.



I've done this with the pulley on and with it off, it's a lot easier with it on and most likely you won't break anything...

I don't see any markings on your pictures on your web page. That hub is not keyed, I suggest making some alignment marks if you plan on reusing the stock stuff. Supposedly the stock balancer on some years are weighted, others are neutral, although I have yet to find anyone who could tell me what years...

 

this is what I did. For the center bolt I used the same kind of bolt that you see on the sides. Make sure everything is well centered and it should come off with ease.

 

I think some of you are confusing a "jaw" puller with a crow's foot puller. The crow's foot as shown just above is what you want (it's a relatively normal balancer puller). A jaw puller has legs with hooks on it to grab things like gears and such.

 

I gave directions using a 3 jaw based on the fact it appears the OP has this in his tool box. I'm pretty sure that the FSM says to use J 5825-A which is a 3 jaw puller. However there is no reason you can't use a crow's foot/balancer/power steering puller as long as you have the proper nuts, bolts and washers. I've done it both ways, the crow's foot is easier with it in the car. The OP seems to have his LT1 on a stand, if he only has the 3 jaw puller he could just use that instead of going out to buy or rent something else

 

This is what I did, except using bolts with the same thread as the balancer bolts. Having them threaded into the hub made for a rigid assembly, easy to keep everything centered.

 

J 39046 is the LT1 puller and it is not the jaw type.

 

i just put a bolt in the hole and use a normal sbc balancer puller