LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

LT4 Hot cam #'s

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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 12:40 PM
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texas97z's Avatar
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From: Flower Mound, Tx
LT4 Hot cam #'s

Just collecting thoughts. Mods in sig. Still running stock throttle body. The car started mving around on the dyno at about 5,500 RPM from what the tech said so he got out of it. Looks like I need some suspension work now. Will post pics of dyno sheet once I get my scanner hooked up. Posted 313rwhp/345rwtq on a DnoJet dyno. This was the best pull there so they went with this tunning. Wanting to try to get the 350/350 range. Advice welcome.
Old Jan 18, 2008 | 03:46 PM
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'94 Bad A Z28's Avatar
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If you want to stay with that cam get some long tube headers, an electric water pump, do whatever free mods that you haven't already, a good cat-back exhaust and/or a cut-out... re-tune and then hope and pray. Or better yet, all of the above and a bigger more aggressive cam, re-tune and then be happy.
Old Jan 18, 2008 | 06:42 PM
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I forgot to mention already running dumped right after the y. Wanted to stay with same cam, too time consuming to take car apart again and at this point is my daily driver. So I quess by your response then my goal is too optimistic. I will have to save some $ for a set of heads then. LE is very reasonable and close by. Was hoping someone out there had done it with this cam on stock heads to chip in and point me in the right direction. Thanks for the feed back. So I will at some point have to take the car apart anyway to hit my goal.

It's fun to drive right now anyway.
Old Jan 18, 2008 | 07:19 PM
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'94 Bad A Z28's Avatar
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You don't have to take the car apart... Just through a nitrous kit on it, I'm kind of partial to Nitrous Express kits.
Old Jan 18, 2008 | 07:20 PM
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Oh... and a fuel pump, lol.
Old Jan 18, 2008 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by texas97z
Just collecting thoughts. Mods in sig. Still running stock throttle body. The car started mving around on the dyno at about 5,500 RPM from what the tech said so he got out of it. Looks like I need some suspension work now. Will post pics of dyno sheet once I get my scanner hooked up. Posted 313rwhp/345rwtq on a DnoJet dyno. This was the best pull there so they went with this tunning. Wanting to try to get the 350/350 range. Advice welcome.
Car started moving?
As in "the car got squirrelly?"

That is stock LS1 power.
I've seen plenty of stock LS1's dyno without "moving around"
on the dyno.

Sounds like operator error to me.
If you don't mind me asking, where did this take place?
Old Jan 18, 2008 | 08:59 PM
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i've seen some cars get wild on a dyno from bad shocks, bent control arms, bent axles or wheels or bad tires. Start w/ that stuff.
I don't think I've even seen 900+ hp stockish suspension cars wiggle on the when dyno properly strapped.
Old Jan 19, 2008 | 09:20 AM
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HPP Performance in Lewisville.Good guys/knowledgeable. Car was strapped down good. He said the suspension probably needs work and I buy it. Stock suspension all of it and 145k on th car. He mentioned control arms as well. I think this winter I am going to work on suspension.

Mike I had a question though. You said stock LS1 power. I have always been told that thru my 6 speed there is about 18% loss to rear wheels,same with LS cars. That would put me at about 370hp/407tq at the fly. Never seen a stock LS car with those #'s. Is my loss% wrong for me or do LS just not loose that much?

I was planning on adding nitrous but not until I get to 350/350 at the wheels first.

Last edited by texas97z; Jan 19, 2008 at 09:32 AM.
Old Jan 19, 2008 | 01:14 PM
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those are low numbers for a bolt on hotcam car. Did you get a dyno tune when you were there?
If you really want 350/350 at the tire your going to need to dig into the motor. But i would start with lt's, a 52mm tb, ele wp, pulley, a good tune.
I would go somewhere else if you can, doesnt sound like its the best shop. good luck
Old Jan 19, 2008 | 01:26 PM
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A T56 is more like 14% loss and yes later year LS1 M6's do dyno just over 300 rwhp stock due to having an LS6 intake.
Old Jan 19, 2008 | 05:31 PM
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I'd recommend going to obd1 if you haven't already and getting a mail-order tune from Bryan Hebert(sp?) I think you can hit atleast 340 with your current mods with a good tune.
Old Jan 19, 2008 | 09:36 PM
  #12  
solarofthesix
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hey I have a lt4HC kit and i was running about 20-30 more tq and around the HP numbers you are looking for, both sets of numbers are corrected.

Hotcam Kit, Pacesetter Coated LTs, TR55 plugs, Accell 8.8mm Wires, MS 6al, MSD Blaster Coil, K&N CAI, Descreened MAF, !EGR, and !AIR I think are all I have on it.

(my bottom end IS rebuilt, but with the original Pistons, connecting rods, crank, new lifters from GM, just new rings, bearings, gaskets, etc.)

I ordered a new set of Redtop 30# injectors as mine were not cooperating too well with trying to get more fuel so that more spark could be thrown in. Also getting the CRT Aluminum Elbow (I have the rubber accordion with a huge hole in it) and TB Air Foil this week, and looking for a TB. With all of this I think Ill be doing well over what you are looking for. Its got one SIIICK torque curve on it too.

As for sliding around on it, not too sure what all would really cause that, do you atleast have a set of tubular LCAs?
Old Jan 19, 2008 | 11:06 PM
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Good to know about the loss % and LS1 #'s, helps me know where I stand.

As far as suspension it is bone stock. I think that will help a lot, atleast with the rearend movement. The guy who did my tune on the dyno came highly recommended from a local racer I know who runs an lt1, So I am hoping atleast it is not the tune. The car did pick up 23rwhp/50 rwtq from his tune. He didn't mess with the fuel pressure though. Maybe I should adjust it back up to 45. I took it down cause car was running real rich due to wrong injector size programming from first tune,my fault I told him they were stock(I thought the guy I bought car from was lying).Right now pressure is set at 40.

Also need to get off stock TB. I do have the CRT elbow off ebay though and de-screened mass. Thinking based on what you guys have said, need 52mm TB and pulleys. Then lower rear control arms for wheel hop. and try again. Then I should be pretty darn close?
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