ok.. so i let my 94 hotcammed t/a sit for a few weeks.. went to start it.. and it didn't fire right up.. so i jumped it and it puffed out some white smoke and shot a bunch of water out the exhaust.. i was like **** maybe it just puked a gasket. so i checked the oil.. it was kinda milky. so i changed the oil. fired it back up and it ran fine.. then it stalled and was really hard starting.. but it would run just not right..so i swapped the stock untuned computer out for one that has a tune on it.. still runs like crap. so i swap the tranny which was the reason i left it sit.. it takes 10 minutes to get it to start and 15 to actually get it out of the garage.. then the next day it wouldn't start at all.. changed the icm.. no change.. changed the cap and rotor.. still nothing.. changed the opti... backfires here and there. still won't run.. swapped the coil.. still not running.. pulled the valve covers to see if a rocker backed off but they are all tight and actuating the valves as they should. then i was wondering if it were a fuel problem.. so i hot wired my fuel soleniod to see if it had fuel pressure and it does.. the gas smells kinda funny though.. i can't get it to run so i can't get any codes... don't know what else i should look at or check. oil hasn't turned milky again since i changed it.. what do i do..

 

If I found milky oil:

I'd check the plugs and do a compression test and a leak down when the plugs were out.

Mike

 

well i live in new york and it has been very wet and like i said it had been sitting a while and i did run the car after i changed the oil long enough to be able to notice if it were still leaking coolant into the engine..not to mention that it didn't lose any coolant at all and it has zero moisture in the oil since and its been left in a climate controlled garage.

 

I was just going by what you wrote:

... then it stalled and was really hard starting.. but it would run just not right...



You did a lot of trouble shooting that is much harder to do than compression and leak down tests and I would have checked the plugs before changing the opti/cap/wires etc.

 

they are brand new.. engine only has 200 miles if that on it.. i just used a extra vented opti that i had kicking around from my vette when i put the engine together.. i had a spare 95 timing cover also so i just upgraded it... so that is why went for the opti first... and it had an original icm with 155,000 miles on it so i thought why not..and i had bought a new coil when i built the motor.. the wires were new too...

 

this might sound stupid....but did you replace the cam dowel pin? If you did the venter swap, you need to have a longer dowel placed in for the car to start.

 

yes the hotcam that i put in the new engine has a long dowel. and it had been running fine for sometime till the tranny took a dump and i parked it till i had the new one which i then used the car to take it to the garage so i could change the tranny and ran into my current situation..

 

anyone??

 

When you had a problem with the tranny that promted the overhaul, did that problem occur very quickly and did it shut the engine off?