I have LT4 383 with a solid roller cam. I'm trying to decide what roller rockers to go with.
What kind of valve covers did you have to use to clear your shaft mount rockers and what kind of rockers are you using?

Also, did you have to relocate your alternator?

Thanks
Tom

 

anyone???

 

If I were going to get shaftmounts again i would get the T&D ones for $900. There is always the regular Jesel's for like $1200. I tried the cheaper SS series from Jesel and had to sell them as they wouldn't clear the retainers on my solid roller springs.

 

Yep, T&D or Jesel. Some prefer T&D and some prefer Jesel... the choice is yours.

Yes, relocating the alternator is a necessity of super tall valve covers unless you can figure some way around it. Canton, Herbert, Moroso and quite a few others make tall centerbolt covers that will clear a shaft or a stud-w/girdle setup. Shop around for best prices.

-Mindgame

 

I'm trying to decide what to go with.
right now Thunder racing has the shaft mount T&D's on Sale for $800.
I can get Comp Pro magnums for $250-300 and a girdle for $160

Are the shaft mount rockers that much better that they are worth
$400 more? I don't consider my cam that radical and I won't have to spin it past 7k.
Are there any problems using girdles or are the shaft mount rockers easier to adjust or anything?

Whats the best center bolt valve cover for the money?
The Moroso are about $300

 

I got mine from www.DRERACING.com nice stuff.



David

 

Thanks, those do look nice but they are even more than the T&D's

Are there any benefits to using them like I mentioned above?

What kind of valve covers did you use?


Thanks

 

I have regularly turned 7/16 stud mounted rockers to 8000rpm woth no problems at all and no stud girdle. Only if you are planning on running higher than that would I look at a shaft mounted rocker. IMO the stud girdle is a crutch for those engines that really should be using a shaft mount system and is not necessary as long as you have quality studs like the ARP pro series and quality rockers and polylocks. I have actually come across problems on a few engines that had more valve train problems with the stud girdle that without it because it ended up putting stress on the studs. I have seen them brak the studs with the girdle and after removing the girdle there were no more breakages. Just a personal preference I guess but with a little backup.

 

A friend of mine had a very high HP, very high RPM LT1 using the Jesel shaft mounts (not the low-end SS). He wanted to keep the "stock" look, so he got an extra pair of stock LT1 covers, cut the bottoms off one set and the tops off the other set, and welded the two halves together to make a pair of fairly tall covers..... it was hard to tell it wasn't stock. He was able to keep the alternator.... can't recall if he had to ding the end of the cover a little more to clear it.

 

Convert your heads to perimeter style valve cover with a little welding. Then you can be innovative and cool like me .

Ryan

 

thanks Rev for the good information.

I had planned on using the Comp pro magnum roller rockers
and I have ARP 7/16 screw in studs.

The lift on my cam is not over 600 and I do not think it will ever see anything over 7k rpms

It sounds like I will be fine with the regular roller rockers.
I think I noticed that Injuneer is using regular roller rockers too?

Thanks
Tom

 

GM makes an adapter plate to convert centerbolt heads to perimeter style. Don't know if it will clear stuff though.