I've been readin here for a long time even though i just sold my Honda Prelude a few days ago (don't flame the noob). Anyway, had the prelude for fuel economy for college but now i'm out and stepped up to the LT-1. I bought a 1996 Firebird Formula for $4500 and has 80,000 (A4, wanted a T56 but what are you going to do). Like brand new, I bought a 3 year 36,000 warrenty for it too. Now i just have to mod it as far as i can without voiding the warranty. I already have a SLP catback on there, and just got Richmond 3.73 gears for it today and bearings. Think i'll be getting a cold air induction and AirFoil for it, maybe a MAF too. Now i've seen on here people breaking into the 13's with stock
LT-1's. I always see them mid to low 14's around here (ohio). I'm hoping to break into the 13's with this setup. what do you guys think? Sorry for the long post
TONY

 

Yea I definitely think you can break into the 13's with that setup...probably real high 13's though....but on the other hand if you get a higher stall then its a whole different ballgame...welcome

 

leave the MAF alone and skip the airfoil
if you want to get into the 13's without voiding the warranty then do some suspension stuff ie; LCA relocation brackets, LCA's, panhard rod, sticky tires
1st and foremost i would perform a complete tuneup and get the car running as strong as possible before going to the track and being disappointed

welcome the the LT1 world

 

yeah, definitely don't touch the MAF.

number 1 is learning about the LT1... number 2 is working on your launch. THEN start the crazy modding Good luck!!

 

haha i've always had manuals. How do you launch an auto other than maybe torquing it up? I've done the usual Tune ups changed oil, checked fluids, checked air filter, plugs and wires seemed to be fine. The motor seems to be running strong, no hesitation or misses. I still need to learn about the opti-spark and such. As for the warranty i need to look into that more on monday. I'm pretty sure he said most bolt ons won't void it. He said nitrous and S/C and such mostly. So if you guys don't think the airfoil or MAF is worthwhile, what would you suggest? I'm not sure if i want a stall since i'll be driving this car about 1/2 the time.

thanks for the responds TONY

 

A good stall will retain the torque converter lockup feature which will allow you to retain your gasmileage. Most guys advise a 2800-3000 Vig. stall for auto cars. Those converters have been known to drop 4 tenths off of 1/4 miles times so you may want to reconsider. Definately don't go with a bigger MAF, the stocker is fine and you can always descreen it if you feel like it. As mentioned by others, suspension mods are good, as are long tube headers and a good CAI. You would be surprised what 300 hp can do in a car that hooks.

 

You should be in the 13's. I have two friends that both run 13.9's with just exhaust and intake. I run the same with the same mods. Where are you running at? I am from Ohio also, we always run at D42.

 

I DONT KNOW WHERE TO START.

I"LL TRY HERE BY NAMING FLAWS AND FIXES FOR LT1.

SUSPENSION IS SLOPPY:

Buy sphericle rod ended rear control arms and panhard rod. I know a place to put this together for under a hundred dollars contact me if you are serious. If you look at spohn, bmr, hotchkis etc, the adjustable suspension parts are EXPENSIVE. They are the best. Don't even bother getting the non-adjustable non spherical parts. You wont notice much of a ride comfort difference but when you leave a fast food place and one wheel doesn't slip while taking off although you just went over a weird bump you know your suspension is swiveling and doing its job. DO IT*

three words... STRUT TOWER BRACE

Ground control suspension front COIL OVER kit $220.00

Bimmer parts BILSTEIN SHOCKS $75.00 EACH! ! ! ! EMAIL ME for details like I said.

Have your gears installed (good man got gears ) !

GET AT LEAST 18 INCH RIMS ON THE BACK with very nice tires. This is where all of your power is going. And pushing a car along instead of pulling is a whole different ball game bro. (I have C5 rims on my car they are pretty nice)

IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT: get A SPOHN TORQUE ARM.

YOU HAVE TO GET SUBFRAMES. GO HERE. http://www.slotcarracing.com

TRANSMITION:

I know some people will get mad at me saying this but the stock 4l60e trans is POS. Try to get strong bands and clutches installed.

Definately get a shift kit installed if you plan on racing AT ALL. It will shift sloppy and over rev a lot stock. You will beat on it.
Also remember you dont have to go much over six thousand rpm's either because all of your power is made before hand.
I blew my 4l60e with bolt ons and corvette rims and a stock converter.

HAve the converter replaced with a nice one that suits your needs and when you do, at least do the mods listed above.

ENGINE

FIRST GET AT LEAST SHORTY HEADERS/Y AND HAVE IT TIED IN WITH THAT SLP SYSTEM. WHEN YOU DO THIS...

Have a summit cutout installed and GET A REMOTE CUTOUT. This mod is sweet and cheap. You can open your cutout from inside your car! STR8 PIPES!!!

ALSO BUY A CATCO high flow converter. I got mine from JC Whitney for $55 ! 3inch in 3 inch out high flow high performance cat!

Get some Roller Rockers and lighten up your valvetrain.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS: Get a 160 degree thermostat and install a fan switch to turn your fans on early. If you are smart you will find the right fan switch kit with a relay and sensor that is installed on the block to be precise. It is a very cheap thing to do and yes your stock engine runs too hot. It is made that way to be better on emissions and worse on performance. It allready has 80 thousand hot miles on it (my 95 had 70) so we're in the same ball park. By 80k these cars can be beat down while still looking very pretty and being kinda fast.

I would say to get a hypertech power programmer but wait until you do every mod I mentioned on hare and just go to a custom tuning site and get the computer upgrade sent through email etc. with the updates. The HPPIII is more like a very expensive fan switch mod!!

If I were to do it over I would have installed a better fan switch and purchased a custom PCM tuning and still have spent LESS then a HPPIII ! ! ! !

I would also recommend getting an MSD ignition. I have the 6AL and it is nice for what I have it for A nice soft touch rev limiter, shift light and after installing I definately felt a pull and got slightly better gas milage. The extra energy really does make a difference. You used to have ahonda so I know you like fuel efficiency!

An adjustable fuel pressure regulator doesn't cost a lot and will smooth out your idle and make your whole beast run better. plus you get to install a a cool looking fuel pressure gauge!!

You can allways port and polish the intake a gasket match things for free!!!

FREE MODS:
DESCREEN MAF.

THROTTLE BODY BYPAS

COLD AIR INDUCTION.

PORT MAF ENDS.

YOUR car will breath fine with the stock heads.

Getting into a headcam combo is where you start making real power.

Get nitrous for a kick in the pants! Buy a cheap kit form that place that is a sponsor on here.


it goes on and on Anyway my email is djk19@rcn.com if you want to know about that stuff. LAter, K

 

djk pretty much somes it up. Some little mods I like are airfoil, underdrive pulley, and shift kit. I have 3.73's sittin in my house too. If I were you I would get some good sticky tires to go with them though. A stall like others said. A cai, high flow cat (if you have emissions), and shortie headers (also if emissions). Then maybe a good custom tune and you will be sittin very good. Good to see you came from honda power to............actual power. I had an accord myself .

 

Man, people post on the Lt-1 like crazy! Anyway, thanks guys for the info. I would like to go headers but they are about $600 and i heard they are a real B*&ch to install. I would like to get the Z06 replica wheels but i'm not sure if i want to spend $1200 on wheels and tires. Anyone have any other advise? I can't wait to get those gears in!

TONY

 

I'll add my .02,

Don't port your MAF ends, don't descreen your MAF, don't waste money on an airfoil, and don't waste money on underdrive pullies.

 

if you plan on dragging sticky tires are your friend

 

I'm only plannin on dragging a couple of times just to see what'd she'll run. So what air induction systems do you guys suggest? Right now i think i'm going to buy the Moroso. Nobody said a 160deg thermostat? I was planning on getting one of those too.

TONY

 

I have had lots of lt1s 3 now and done a lot of stuff to them.

I have mostly had six speeds but now have an auto.

I am not planning big mods for the current one but even with what is got its hit high 13s at 1900 feet on street tires.Not bad at all for a heavier vert. Some mods are supposed to be useless on lt1s but more useful on tpi cars.Airfoil is one of those.I threw one on anyway. And I like granatelli mafs on lt1s.Notice a difference with them.Got mine used off the board.No problems with it unlike taking out screens and ends can cause problems.
I installed cold air that is good mod too. And went with 1le bellows and 160 stat and tb bypass and got used hpp also off the board.I changed out tps and shortly will block off or change out egr valve getting code for it on hpp powerscan.
Today water pump started dying so need to change out that.

Anyway as for more mods plan on 3.42 gears as car has 2.73 if yours has 3.23 might be ok to leave them and plan on good stall likely vigilante 2800 to 3000 should be about right.And possibly shift kit ,for sure bigger trans cooler.

Only other mods planned after that are borla with electric cutout and asp underdrive balancer pulley and maybe some 1.6 or 1.7 rockers and springs.

No cam,heads /headers or even likely nos for this car.Not sure the 460 e can take spray much or the bigger mods.

Anyway pretty confident with the above mods planned can hit low 13s on street tires and possibly 12s on drag radials.

That is plenty fast enough for this car for me.So enjoy your new toy sounds like you got a screamin deal on it.

 

Moroso is good. The 160 therm will need some tuning to get your fans on earlier to take advantage of it. But you'll need a lil' tuning with the gears to get the speedo calibrated anyway. And definitely plan on a good stall converter. It really wakes up the car.