went from rice to LT-1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 586
From: OHIO
Yeah that is one of the perks of working at a GM dealership. I bought it for a few hundred more than what the guy traded it for. I do have the 2.73 gears(putting 3.73's in tomorrow). One of my friends said i should have got 4:10's but i thought that would be tooo low for an A4. Is the TB bypass good? I'm not sure how to do it, but thats what the search button is good for 
TONY
TONY
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,362
Originally posted by djk19
I DONT KNOW WHERE TO START.
I"LL TRY HERE BY NAMING FLAWS AND FIXES FOR LT1.
SUSPENSION IS SLOPPY:
Buy sphericle rod ended rear control arms and panhard rod. I know a place to put this together for under a hundred dollars contact me if you are serious. If you look at spohn, bmr, hotchkis etc, the adjustable suspension parts are EXPENSIVE. They are the best. Don't even bother getting the non-adjustable non spherical parts. You wont notice much of a ride comfort difference but when you leave a fast food place and one wheel doesn't slip while taking off although you just went over a weird bump you know your suspension is swiveling and doing its job. DO IT*
three words... STRUT TOWER BRACE
Ground control suspension front COIL OVER kit $220.00
Bimmer parts BILSTEIN SHOCKS $75.00 EACH! ! ! ! EMAIL ME for details like I said.
Have your gears installed (good man got gears
) !
GET AT LEAST 18 INCH RIMS ON THE BACK with very nice tires. This is where all of your power is going. And pushing a car along instead of pulling is a whole different ball game bro. (I have C5 rims on my car they are pretty nice)
IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT: get A SPOHN TORQUE ARM.
YOU HAVE TO GET SUBFRAMES. GO HERE. http://www.slotcarracing.com
TRANSMITION:
I know some people will get mad at me saying this but the stock 4l60e trans is POS. Try to get strong bands and clutches installed.
Definately get a shift kit installed if you plan on racing AT ALL. It will shift sloppy and over rev a lot stock. You will beat on it.
Also remember you dont have to go much over six thousand rpm's either because all of your power is made before hand.
I blew my 4l60e with bolt ons and corvette rims and a stock converter.
HAve the converter replaced with a nice one that suits your needs and when you do, at least do the mods listed above.
ENGINE
FIRST GET AT LEAST SHORTY HEADERS/Y AND HAVE IT TIED IN WITH THAT SLP SYSTEM. WHEN YOU DO THIS...
Have a summit cutout installed and GET A REMOTE CUTOUT. This mod is sweet and cheap. You can open your cutout from inside your car! STR8 PIPES!!!
ALSO BUY A CATCO high flow converter. I got mine from JC Whitney for $55 ! 3inch in 3 inch out high flow high performance cat!
Get some Roller Rockers and lighten up your valvetrain.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS: Get a 160 degree thermostat and install a fan switch to turn your fans on early. If you are smart you will find the right fan switch kit with a relay and sensor that is installed on the block to be precise. It is a very cheap thing to do and yes your stock engine runs too hot. It is made that way to be better on emissions and worse on performance. It allready has 80 thousand hot miles on it (my 95 had 70) so we're in the same ball park. By 80k these cars can be beat down while still looking very pretty and being kinda fast.
I would say to get a hypertech power programmer but wait until you do every mod I mentioned on hare and just go to a custom tuning site and get the computer upgrade sent through email etc. with the updates. The HPPIII is more like a very expensive fan switch mod!!
If I were to do it over I would have installed a better fan switch and purchased a custom PCM tuning and still have spent LESS then a HPPIII ! ! ! !
I would also recommend getting an MSD ignition. I have the 6AL and it is nice for what I have it for A nice soft touch rev limiter, shift light and after installing I definately felt a pull and got slightly better gas milage. The extra energy really does make a difference. You used to have ahonda so I know you like fuel efficiency!
An adjustable fuel pressure regulator doesn't cost a lot and will smooth out your idle and make your whole beast run better. plus you get to install a a cool looking fuel pressure gauge!!
You can allways port and polish the intake a gasket match things for free!!!
FREE MODS:
DESCREEN MAF.
THROTTLE BODY BYPAS
COLD AIR INDUCTION.
PORT MAF ENDS.
YOUR car will breath fine with the stock heads.
Getting into a headcam combo is where you start making real power.
Get nitrous for a kick in the pants! Buy a cheap kit form that place that is a sponsor on here.
it goes on and on Anyway my email is djk19@rcn.com if you want to know about that stuff. LAter, K
I DONT KNOW WHERE TO START.
I"LL TRY HERE BY NAMING FLAWS AND FIXES FOR LT1.
SUSPENSION IS SLOPPY:
Buy sphericle rod ended rear control arms and panhard rod. I know a place to put this together for under a hundred dollars contact me if you are serious. If you look at spohn, bmr, hotchkis etc, the adjustable suspension parts are EXPENSIVE. They are the best. Don't even bother getting the non-adjustable non spherical parts. You wont notice much of a ride comfort difference but when you leave a fast food place and one wheel doesn't slip while taking off although you just went over a weird bump you know your suspension is swiveling and doing its job. DO IT*
three words... STRUT TOWER BRACE
Ground control suspension front COIL OVER kit $220.00
Bimmer parts BILSTEIN SHOCKS $75.00 EACH! ! ! ! EMAIL ME for details like I said.
Have your gears installed (good man got gears
) !GET AT LEAST 18 INCH RIMS ON THE BACK with very nice tires. This is where all of your power is going. And pushing a car along instead of pulling is a whole different ball game bro. (I have C5 rims on my car they are pretty nice)
IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT: get A SPOHN TORQUE ARM.
YOU HAVE TO GET SUBFRAMES. GO HERE. http://www.slotcarracing.com
TRANSMITION:
I know some people will get mad at me saying this but the stock 4l60e trans is POS. Try to get strong bands and clutches installed.
Definately get a shift kit installed if you plan on racing AT ALL. It will shift sloppy and over rev a lot stock. You will beat on it.
Also remember you dont have to go much over six thousand rpm's either because all of your power is made before hand.
I blew my 4l60e with bolt ons and corvette rims and a stock converter.
HAve the converter replaced with a nice one that suits your needs and when you do, at least do the mods listed above.
ENGINE
FIRST GET AT LEAST SHORTY HEADERS/Y AND HAVE IT TIED IN WITH THAT SLP SYSTEM. WHEN YOU DO THIS...
Have a summit cutout installed and GET A REMOTE CUTOUT. This mod is sweet and cheap. You can open your cutout from inside your car! STR8 PIPES!!!
ALSO BUY A CATCO high flow converter. I got mine from JC Whitney for $55 ! 3inch in 3 inch out high flow high performance cat!
Get some Roller Rockers and lighten up your valvetrain.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS: Get a 160 degree thermostat and install a fan switch to turn your fans on early. If you are smart you will find the right fan switch kit with a relay and sensor that is installed on the block to be precise. It is a very cheap thing to do and yes your stock engine runs too hot. It is made that way to be better on emissions and worse on performance. It allready has 80 thousand hot miles on it (my 95 had 70) so we're in the same ball park. By 80k these cars can be beat down while still looking very pretty and being kinda fast.
I would say to get a hypertech power programmer but wait until you do every mod I mentioned on hare and just go to a custom tuning site and get the computer upgrade sent through email etc. with the updates. The HPPIII is more like a very expensive fan switch mod!!
If I were to do it over I would have installed a better fan switch and purchased a custom PCM tuning and still have spent LESS then a HPPIII ! ! ! !
I would also recommend getting an MSD ignition. I have the 6AL and it is nice for what I have it for A nice soft touch rev limiter, shift light and after installing I definately felt a pull and got slightly better gas milage. The extra energy really does make a difference. You used to have ahonda so I know you like fuel efficiency!
An adjustable fuel pressure regulator doesn't cost a lot and will smooth out your idle and make your whole beast run better. plus you get to install a a cool looking fuel pressure gauge!!
You can allways port and polish the intake a gasket match things for free!!!
FREE MODS:
DESCREEN MAF.
THROTTLE BODY BYPAS
COLD AIR INDUCTION.
PORT MAF ENDS.
YOUR car will breath fine with the stock heads.
Getting into a headcam combo is where you start making real power.
Get nitrous for a kick in the pants! Buy a cheap kit form that place that is a sponsor on here.
it goes on and on Anyway my email is djk19@rcn.com if you want to know about that stuff. LAter, K
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,106
From: Toledo, Ohio USA
17x11s in the back is the Shiznit... don't go 18s... Trust me, I've had 6 sets of wheels. Finally settled with the Black ZR1s...
The guy above somewhat knows, but then again somewhat doesn't! LOL
I'm in NW Ohio, if you're near maybe you'd like to check out the link in my signature... peace...
The guy above somewhat knows, but then again somewhat doesn't! LOL
I'm in NW Ohio, if you're near maybe you'd like to check out the link in my signature... peace...
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 805
From: California
Originally posted by toneloc12345
Yeah that is one of the perks of working at a GM dealership. I bought it for a few hundred more than what the guy traded it for. I do have the 2.73 gears(putting 3.73's in tomorrow). One of my friends said i should have got 4:10's but i thought that would be tooo low for an A4. Is the TB bypass good? I'm not sure how to do it, but thats what the search button is good for TONY
Yeah that is one of the perks of working at a GM dealership. I bought it for a few hundred more than what the guy traded it for. I do have the 2.73 gears(putting 3.73's in tomorrow). One of my friends said i should have got 4:10's but i thought that would be tooo low for an A4. Is the TB bypass good? I'm not sure how to do it, but thats what the search button is good for
TONY
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 533
From: Akron/Canton Oh, USA
Don't waste your money on a new MAF, ingnition, airfoil, or a underdrive pulley. I would save the money and do headers or add to suspension. There is no need to waste money on things that aren't going to give a gain of more than 2 hp. www.ws6.com has dyno results for many different parts, and the ones mentioned above didn't do anything.
Moroso is a good intake, I have one. I would spend money on suspension, intake, headers, and a stall. That should put you in the low 13's/high 12's.
Moroso is a good intake, I have one. I would spend money on suspension, intake, headers, and a stall. That should put you in the low 13's/high 12's.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 839
From: Honolulu, HI
I GUARANTEE that if you do a K&N FIPK ($200), DMH e-cutout ($250 installed), and Madwolf tune (~$200) you'll cut 3-4 tenths off your ET and pick up 3-4mph. Then get long tube headers to pick up at least another 3 tenths and 3 mph or so.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 805
From: California
The pulley and airfoil only gave an average gain of 10hp together under the curve. And I got the pulley, new belt and airfoil for around $70. So that $ per ave. hp gain is better then headers and cai. If you are going to do the big mods and spend big money why not spend another $70 for 10 average hp and tq? That just seems weird to me.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,223
From: Browns Mills, New Jersey
You should see 13's almost stock...the formys are a tad lighter and ive seen em run fast in stock form..actually raced one a4 w/ 323's that cut a 13.7 stock against me years back(think it was a 94-95)...dont waste the money on the air foil
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 586
From: OHIO
thanks for all of the info guys. I am thinking pretty hard about about that stall (SLP lock up 2400 $294). I'll probably be waiting for the headers. Figure i should give this one a little time to see if anything goes wrong with it first before i get too crazy with the mods. Anyone want to take bets on the 1/4 with CAI, SLP exhaust, TB bypass, and 3.73's? I'm hoping for 13.9 What should i lower tire pressure to around 30? Oh and i'm thinking about getting a SLP Shift Improvement Module too.
This is one of the best car forums i've ever seen on the 'net!
TONY
This is one of the best car forums i've ever seen on the 'net!
TONY
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,967
From: Bay Area, CA, USA
Originally posted by Pasky
Why the hell would he need 18" rims in the back? More weight on the wheels = more rotational weight which = lower track times. 17"s should be fine.
Why the hell would he need 18" rims in the back? More weight on the wheels = more rotational weight which = lower track times. 17"s should be fine.
Here my version of what you need to have a solid 13 sec. car:
-Tune-up and free mods
-160 thermostat with pcmforless or madz28 basic tuning
-Strut tower brace, lower control arms with relocation brackets, and most important subframe connectors (boxed). BMRfabrication.com has really good stuff for a fair price. Those are all your basic chassis stuff.
-Cold air intake, midlength or longtube headers (SLP, AS&M, Hooker, FLP, etc. etc.) Do a search to see what other ppl have had luck with. IMO, if you want to do it right the first time, go with long tubes.
-Especially important with an automatic is a stall/gears. 3.42-3.73 are what people usually go with in an auto. Motive gears are actually GM gears in different packaging so go with those for the best fit, quality, and noise level. A 2600-2800 stall is usually what automatics with stock cams go with. Otherwise you will have to match the powerband of the cam with the stall.
Along the modding road you will discover little things here and there that you can do but that should give you a good base to start. First you go with getting all the power out of the car without modding it (tune-up and free mods). Then move to basic mods like the 160 thermostat and tuning, which will also help if you do any major mods in the future. Then you move to basic suspension to help with handling/traction and giving the car a more solid feel. Then you move into basic power mods (intake, exhaust). Then you move into powetrain mods, stall/gears. That seems like the most logical progression to me.
Good luck and welcome.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 980
From: batavia, ohio
glad u made the switch from rice to the world of the LT1. u will love it.
anyways, as everyone has stated. skip the MAF and airfoil.
start with the gear and move on to a CAI. moroso and K&N seem to be the best. i like my moroso just fine and u can usually find them used for $50-$75.
get yourself an ASP pulley and do some tuning. i see u are from ohio. go on over to www.LT1dave.com, he is in southern ohio and can help u out a great deal. feel free to call, he is a great tuner and im sure we can squeeze mid 13's out of the car with a few bolt ons. another thing u may want to look into is a cutout (about $30 from summit)
PM me if u have any ?'s
also, since u are an ohio boy, check out www.GCFBA.net it is our local cincinnati F-body board. my name is djbird87 on there. hope to see u around.
dj
anyways, as everyone has stated. skip the MAF and airfoil.
start with the gear and move on to a CAI. moroso and K&N seem to be the best. i like my moroso just fine and u can usually find them used for $50-$75.
get yourself an ASP pulley and do some tuning. i see u are from ohio. go on over to www.LT1dave.com, he is in southern ohio and can help u out a great deal. feel free to call, he is a great tuner and im sure we can squeeze mid 13's out of the car with a few bolt ons. another thing u may want to look into is a cutout (about $30 from summit)
PM me if u have any ?'s
also, since u are an ohio boy, check out www.GCFBA.net it is our local cincinnati F-body board. my name is djbird87 on there. hope to see u around.
dj