I've been told not to jack on the HUB separated by a piece of wood. The hub would go back on the crank, before I would do this of course.

Some say they do it all the time, some say no.

Experience here? Thanks in advance.

 

Before I would do that consider this.
I assume that you are replacing it due to the oil getting by the front timing cover.

What I done was I cut the pan gasket at a 45 degree angle near the dipstick tube just to the left of it about an inch or two. Anyway this will allow you to get the pan gasket on without jacking the motor up to remove the oil pan. Once you cut the gasket I used a dabbed of RTV in the joint just to make sure of no leak.

I know some people say that you just ruined a good set of gasket but, it did work and I had no more leaks.

This method IMO was a lot faster and less risk taking if you dont have the right tools to do the job. I just don't like the risk of jacking the motor up by pushing on the crank and balancing it on a piece of wood while you remove the oil pan and replace the gasket.

 

I saw your post a few weeks back on this. I am having an oil pressure issue at high RPM. There is a post in Advanced Tech called "is it cavitation or lack of oil".

I will first check my pump clearance to the bottom of the pan, and if things check out will get a new windage tray and baffle.

SO I need to do a few things while I'm in there.

(I'm an M6 BTW)

 

I guess you could take the motor mount bolts out and jack it with a piece of wood under the pan and then use other blocks at the mounts to hold it up, then take the pan off. Not sure how high it needs to go, though.

Though the crank is a stout piece, I would have reservations of putting that much stress on the end of it.

Dont forget to remove the low oil sensor before trying to get the pan off!

 

zed- if your car is an M6 you won't get enough clearance at the bellhousing to get the pan out using this method. you can check the clearance and replace the oil pump, but the pan will not come back past the bottom lip of the bell. to get the pan completely out you'll need to drop the front crossmember down several inches. i asked about exactly which bolts to loosen to get the crossmember down in the cavitation thread, but didn't get a concrete answer. i'm pretty sure there are only 3 on each side...

edit- i think if you use a chassis lift (as opposed to a drive on lift like i tried), the crossmember might hang down low enough once you get the motor mount bolts out and the engine jacked up.

 

Thanks guys.

I've got a handle on an engine hoist. The only issue is that I will need to break it down and then assemble it in the garage, as there is little space to get to.

If its possible to do so, I will. If the hoist, doesn't look like it will break down well, I'll wait until the car is running and do it elsewhere.

Thanks.

 

Unless there are obvious signs of leakage after wiping oil away and having it come right back...