Drivetrain Clutch, Torque Converter, Transmission, Driveline, Axles, Rear Ends

Pinion Angle

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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 04:04 PM
  #16  
dalynchmob's Avatar
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Well i took it off. Decided i'd rather have a car that looks good, is decently quick, and i enjoy driving. Rather than one that looks good, has great traction, but bumps on everything, and annoys me when i drive it.
Old Oct 24, 2009 | 05:23 PM
  #17  
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Have you driven it since you put the stock back on? Is the noise factor gone? Hope so!
Dave

Originally Posted by dalynchmob
Well i took it off. Decided i'd rather have a car that looks good, is decently quick, and i enjoy driving. Rather than one that looks good, has great traction, but bumps on everything, and annoys me when i drive it.
Old Oct 24, 2009 | 06:37 PM
  #18  
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Yep back to a very quiet hum between 50-70. The hum was being magnified due to the new cross member being bolted to the body. I'm happy with her just the way she is now... well when it comes to traction at least. Putting on a set of nittos next week.
Old Oct 25, 2009 | 06:23 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by dalynchmob
Am i measuring the difference between the shaft and pinion and trying to get a 2° difference? For example if the shaft is 2° the pinion should be at 4°? It's just considerable louder rear end whine than before and i don't wanna break anything. Plan on pulling the cover and inspecting the gears and wear pattern monday and taking a pic or two.
You need to end up with the pinion and the DS forming an angle, which is a \/ pointing down. If you had 2* on the front, and 4* on the back, it only works if you are reading the pluses and minuses correctly. If you use the DS as a positive reference, the pinion would have to be at 0* to get the 2* difference, with the \/ pointing down.

Your problem may be that you ended up with a huge pinion angle, due to measuring them incorrectly.

I'm running the Spohn TA, with the rod end front mount, and its definitely "hearable", but not to the level that would be annoying. And there is no vibration at all. Maybe my "senior citizen" ears aren't too sensitive, and the nearly straight pipe exhaust, and the rattle of the solid roller camshaft cover up the TA noise.....
Old Oct 28, 2009 | 03:09 PM
  #20  
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Well, it's shipping my way so lets hope I can adjust everything to proper spec. So I'm shooting for a pinion angle of -2 degrees for an m6 (stock motor, stock ride height)?
Old Nov 5, 2009 | 05:39 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Injuneer
You need to end up with the pinion and the DS forming an angle, which is a \/ pointing down. If you had 2* on the front, and 4* on the back, it only works if you are reading the pluses and minuses correctly. If you use the DS as a positive reference, the pinion would have to be at 0* to get the 2* difference, with the \/ pointing down.

Your problem may be that you ended up with a huge pinion angle, due to measuring them incorrectly.

I'm running the Spohn TA, with the rod end front mount, and its definitely "hearable", but not to the level that would be annoying. And there is no vibration at all. Maybe my "senior citizen" ears aren't too sensitive, and the nearly straight pipe exhaust, and the rattle of the solid roller camshaft cover up the TA noise.....
Thank you very much that was a very simple explaination. I got lucky and the one i got from z284life ended up being perfectly set at 0 and the shaft measured out at 2. Nice
Old Nov 5, 2009 | 10:25 PM
  #22  
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Yea, I had it set pretty dead on. Lets hope I can get yours dialed in to where it needs to be. Might pick up an ls1 DS to throw in there as well.
Old Nov 6, 2009 | 04:41 PM
  #23  
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Since i've installed it I got a clunk coming from the right rear, sounds like a shock bottoming out. Wierd and of course i can't figure it out with the car sitting still in the garage. lol
Old Nov 7, 2009 | 07:53 AM
  #24  
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A clunk form the right rear is often the axle tube hitting the exhaust pipe.
Old Nov 7, 2009 | 09:41 AM
  #25  
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Hmm i'll inspect that area then. Thanks. It just statrted since the torque arm install.
Old Nov 7, 2009 | 11:49 AM
  #26  
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Check for damaged bushing on that end of the Panhard rod. Or even actual damage to the mount for the rod, or the rod itself.

Combine this with your post in "Suspension..." about the erratic side-to-side movement with your new Nittos, and it all adds up.
Old Nov 11, 2009 | 12:18 PM
  #27  
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When you guys have the vehicle in the air, rearend loaded, do you have someone sit in the car to ensure that it is closer to actual loaded ride height?

When I get in my car, the rear of the chassis drops a noticable amount and the pinion will rotate down about 1/2 degree. This will affect the pinion angle.

I guess it makes sense to set the angle with a driver and maybe a passenger in the car for the opimum setup.

What do you think?

Last edited by wrd1972; Nov 13, 2009 at 10:58 AM.
Old Nov 11, 2009 | 05:33 PM
  #28  
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wrd, that's a good point and believe that is the proper way to go about it.
Old Nov 11, 2009 | 07:03 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Z-RATED94
wrd, that's a good point and believe that is the proper way to go about it.
I have read tons of threads and online articles on how to set pinion angle and I have never heard it mentioned one sngle time. Just makes sense.
Old Nov 12, 2009 | 04:47 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
I have read tons of threads and online articles on how to set pinion angle and I have never heard it mentioned one sngle time. Just makes sense.
I too have read many threads concerning pinion angle and maybe one time the mention of having the driver in the car when setting it (pinion angle) came up. Even though trial and error would fine tune the car, it makes sense to at least start out as you mentioned, driver in the car.
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