What buffer to buy...
What buffer to buy...
I've been kicking the idea around about buying a buffer to to polish my car.
Since I have to ask, it's obvious I'm not very schooled on this.
What type of buffer should I buy. Rotating/orbital, size, type of cloth...etc.
Any tips on techniques to get the best results?
I'm planning on claying the car first, after a wash with soup water, to remove all contaminants. Then, I want to apply some 3M compund to get rid of swirl mars, fine scratches...etc.
Another question that I have, how much pressure are you supposed to apply when handling a buffer? Do you apply slightly pressure down on to the body? Do you use in in a certain motion, up and down, side to side, or just in circles?
Thanks for your help, and I hope I can get some comprehensive answers to all of these questions.
-Goose
Since I have to ask, it's obvious I'm not very schooled on this.
What type of buffer should I buy. Rotating/orbital, size, type of cloth...etc.
Any tips on techniques to get the best results?
I'm planning on claying the car first, after a wash with soup water, to remove all contaminants. Then, I want to apply some 3M compund to get rid of swirl mars, fine scratches...etc.
Another question that I have, how much pressure are you supposed to apply when handling a buffer? Do you apply slightly pressure down on to the body? Do you use in in a certain motion, up and down, side to side, or just in circles?
Thanks for your help, and I hope I can get some comprehensive answers to all of these questions.

-Goose
Re: What buffer to buy...
Porter Cable 7424 Orbital Polisher.....Best investment you'll make.....I use a 5" backing plate and 7" Propel pads....Depending on your pad and product selection, you should normally let the weight of the machine to the work, occasionally you will require added pressure.
There is also a proper method for distributing product, and working the product.
Heres a write up I did for another forum:
Proper PC methods...
For those of you already familiar with a Porter Cable 7424, some of this may be old news, some new, I just hope it helps those who are just considering or just bought a PC:
Your main goal with a PC, is to give your surface, a surface treatment, unequal to what you have been doing by hand. The orbital polisher pad, travels in multi dimensional circles. The pad itself rotates, and the base itself rotates, sort of circles inside of circles. This makes it nearly impossible to leave swirl marks, due to its random movement. Also, chemicals react differently to temperatures built up within the pad and product. We’re not talking real heat, just warming it up, more than your hand could.
There are a variety of foam pads available, anything from cutting, to finishing. Obviously cutting pads which are more abrasive, will require less of an abrasive product to perform there work , whereas a more abrasive product, with a less abrasive pad, may perform identically. A cutting pad with an abrasive product rated at 5, may perform the same as a product rated at 7 with a polishing pad (less abrasive). The majority of your "maintenance" work should be performed with either a polishing or finishing pad. I’m assuming you have a backing plate ? PM me with questions……. Polishing pads may be referred to as a Meguiars yellow or Excel Propel Green, finishing pads may be referred to as a Tan Meguiars or Excel Propel Black pads. Either of the above are great for most needs, and we will only refer to these two types for this discussion.
Assuming your surface prep (wash, clay) has been completed, we can now address the capabilities and directions for use.
The PC, is a lot lighter than most conventional hi speed polishers, however it can become heavy when you’re using it for hours on end, to polish, level, and finish a job. It cannot perform miracles, you may think it can and you may think it did. But we need to keep the job in perspective, it’s not a high-speed polisher, and we are not using wool pads here. Anything worse than moderate swirling, and you may end up wasting your time, your product, and your patience. It does deliver though, and in a big way. Light scratches and swirling will diminish with proper pad, and product selection.
The worst thing I could imagine is letting the PC loose while on hi speed, and having it run across your hood or toes! The machine is equipped with speed settings from 3-6, it come with a handle, which you should leave on until your very comfortable manipulating it. I highly recommend leaving it on for several uses. I have performed many jobs with mine and still have it on; I guess it’s my little security blanket.
I prefer to “get busy” and work on a rather large area at a time, say ½ a hood, im talking Suburban here guys. But im comfortable doing that, ive been doing it this way for some time. Until you get comfortable, and real comfy I may add, stick with a smaller section, say ¼ hood etc. I apply my product in little spots, at 12, 3, 6, 9 o’clock, to the pad. Then I smear it in with my fingers for even distribution, immediately. Set at a low speed, say 3.5 (were polishing, so its either a yellow Megs pad, or Green Excel Propel pad) set the pad on the surface, and kind of smear the product around in a small area. Turn the machine on, while holding firmly, and go to a starting point, (lets work ¼ of the hood) preferably ½ the distance from the other side, always work towards yourself, this alleviates the cord from getting on areas you have just polished. Also, it’s a good practice to put the cord over your shoulder. I use three passes for each area. My 1st pass is a left to right, this applies the product, make sure you overlap each pass at least ¼ pad width. The 2nd pass, at about 4.5-5, is a up/down pass, this gets the product in the pores, and begins the polishing stages, again, overlap each pass. The 3rd pass is where I “hook it up”! This is where I get the work done, where the clear meets its destiny, this is where edges are rounded, oxidation is removed, and product dries, im at speed 6 now. At each level, let the machine do the work, its weight, I feel is sufficient for the work desired. Now all of this aforementioned advice, works for me, with the product im using, normally Meg’s #80, or DACP, or a maintenance polish (Stuf Polish is above average) The first pass is a slow introduction pass, I move the machine slowly, but fast enough so by the end, the product hasn’t dried! Second pass, I move a little faster, but so is the machine, so there’s compensation, and finally the last pass, the machines at 6, which is a good clip. The product may actually be dried at this point, but with diminishing abrasives, that’s ok! Its very important to experiment with speeds, that your comfortable with, with the various products you may be using, to obtain the desired results your expecting.
Now with sealants, or waxes, your not expecting oxidation or swirl removal, all your worried about is even product distribution. I usually use the Excel Propel Black Finishing pad. Sealants wont dry as fast as polishes so you have more time to accomplish evenness. I usually operate the machine at about 4.5, but again, distribute, then cover…..
Last but not least, I will remove the sealant by hand with a good microfiber, then throw a new pad on the PC, lay a microfiber on the hood/deck/roof, set the machine to 4, set the machine on the microfiber, and hit the on button. Feel free to take wide paths while doing this, its amazing what that machine with a microfiber underneath it will do !!
Plush Microfibers are the best for this, and there’s no need to spend a fortune on them. For a list of providers (other than myself), just PM me. I’d be happy give you some ideas.
Good luck and I hope this has helped at least one of you
There is also a proper method for distributing product, and working the product.
Heres a write up I did for another forum:
Proper PC methods...
For those of you already familiar with a Porter Cable 7424, some of this may be old news, some new, I just hope it helps those who are just considering or just bought a PC:
Your main goal with a PC, is to give your surface, a surface treatment, unequal to what you have been doing by hand. The orbital polisher pad, travels in multi dimensional circles. The pad itself rotates, and the base itself rotates, sort of circles inside of circles. This makes it nearly impossible to leave swirl marks, due to its random movement. Also, chemicals react differently to temperatures built up within the pad and product. We’re not talking real heat, just warming it up, more than your hand could.
There are a variety of foam pads available, anything from cutting, to finishing. Obviously cutting pads which are more abrasive, will require less of an abrasive product to perform there work , whereas a more abrasive product, with a less abrasive pad, may perform identically. A cutting pad with an abrasive product rated at 5, may perform the same as a product rated at 7 with a polishing pad (less abrasive). The majority of your "maintenance" work should be performed with either a polishing or finishing pad. I’m assuming you have a backing plate ? PM me with questions……. Polishing pads may be referred to as a Meguiars yellow or Excel Propel Green, finishing pads may be referred to as a Tan Meguiars or Excel Propel Black pads. Either of the above are great for most needs, and we will only refer to these two types for this discussion.
Assuming your surface prep (wash, clay) has been completed, we can now address the capabilities and directions for use.
The PC, is a lot lighter than most conventional hi speed polishers, however it can become heavy when you’re using it for hours on end, to polish, level, and finish a job. It cannot perform miracles, you may think it can and you may think it did. But we need to keep the job in perspective, it’s not a high-speed polisher, and we are not using wool pads here. Anything worse than moderate swirling, and you may end up wasting your time, your product, and your patience. It does deliver though, and in a big way. Light scratches and swirling will diminish with proper pad, and product selection.
The worst thing I could imagine is letting the PC loose while on hi speed, and having it run across your hood or toes! The machine is equipped with speed settings from 3-6, it come with a handle, which you should leave on until your very comfortable manipulating it. I highly recommend leaving it on for several uses. I have performed many jobs with mine and still have it on; I guess it’s my little security blanket.
I prefer to “get busy” and work on a rather large area at a time, say ½ a hood, im talking Suburban here guys. But im comfortable doing that, ive been doing it this way for some time. Until you get comfortable, and real comfy I may add, stick with a smaller section, say ¼ hood etc. I apply my product in little spots, at 12, 3, 6, 9 o’clock, to the pad. Then I smear it in with my fingers for even distribution, immediately. Set at a low speed, say 3.5 (were polishing, so its either a yellow Megs pad, or Green Excel Propel pad) set the pad on the surface, and kind of smear the product around in a small area. Turn the machine on, while holding firmly, and go to a starting point, (lets work ¼ of the hood) preferably ½ the distance from the other side, always work towards yourself, this alleviates the cord from getting on areas you have just polished. Also, it’s a good practice to put the cord over your shoulder. I use three passes for each area. My 1st pass is a left to right, this applies the product, make sure you overlap each pass at least ¼ pad width. The 2nd pass, at about 4.5-5, is a up/down pass, this gets the product in the pores, and begins the polishing stages, again, overlap each pass. The 3rd pass is where I “hook it up”! This is where I get the work done, where the clear meets its destiny, this is where edges are rounded, oxidation is removed, and product dries, im at speed 6 now. At each level, let the machine do the work, its weight, I feel is sufficient for the work desired. Now all of this aforementioned advice, works for me, with the product im using, normally Meg’s #80, or DACP, or a maintenance polish (Stuf Polish is above average) The first pass is a slow introduction pass, I move the machine slowly, but fast enough so by the end, the product hasn’t dried! Second pass, I move a little faster, but so is the machine, so there’s compensation, and finally the last pass, the machines at 6, which is a good clip. The product may actually be dried at this point, but with diminishing abrasives, that’s ok! Its very important to experiment with speeds, that your comfortable with, with the various products you may be using, to obtain the desired results your expecting.
Now with sealants, or waxes, your not expecting oxidation or swirl removal, all your worried about is even product distribution. I usually use the Excel Propel Black Finishing pad. Sealants wont dry as fast as polishes so you have more time to accomplish evenness. I usually operate the machine at about 4.5, but again, distribute, then cover…..
Last but not least, I will remove the sealant by hand with a good microfiber, then throw a new pad on the PC, lay a microfiber on the hood/deck/roof, set the machine to 4, set the machine on the microfiber, and hit the on button. Feel free to take wide paths while doing this, its amazing what that machine with a microfiber underneath it will do !!
Plush Microfibers are the best for this, and there’s no need to spend a fortune on them. For a list of providers (other than myself), just PM me. I’d be happy give you some ideas.
Good luck and I hope this has helped at least one of you
Last edited by exceldetail; Jan 18, 2005 at 10:03 AM.
Re: What buffer to buy...
Originally Posted by exceldetail
Porter Cable 7424 Orbital Polisher.....Best investment you'll make.....I use a 5" backing plate and 7" Propel pads....Depending on your pad and product selection, you should normally let the weight of the machine to the work, occasionally you will require added pressure.
There is also a proper method for distributing product, and working the product.
Heres a write up I did for another forum:
Proper PC methods...
For those of you already familiar with a Porter Cable 7424, some of this may be old news, some new, I just hope it helps those who are just considering or just bought a PC:
Your main goal with a PC, is to give your surface, a surface treatment, unequal to what you have been doing by hand. The orbital polisher pad, travels in multi dimensional circles. The pad itself rotates, and the base itself rotates, sort of circles inside of circles. This makes it nearly impossible to leave swirl marks, due to its random movement. Also, chemicals react differently to temperatures built up within the pad and product. We’re not talking real heat, just warming it up, more than your hand could.
There are a variety of foam pads available, anything from cutting, to finishing. Obviously cutting pads which are more abrasive, will require less of an abrasive product to perform there work , whereas a more abrasive product, with a less abrasive pad, may perform identically. A cutting pad with an abrasive product rated at 5, may perform the same as a product rated at 7 with a polishing pad (less abrasive). The majority of your "maintenance" work should be performed with either a polishing or finishing pad. I’m assuming you have a backing plate ? PM me with questions……. Polishing pads may be referred to as a Meguiars yellow or Excel Propel Green, finishing pads may be referred to as a Tan Meguiars or Excel Propel Black pads. Either of the above are great for most needs, and we will only refer to these two types for this discussion.
Assuming your surface prep (wash, clay) has been completed, we can now address the capabilities and directions for use.
The PC, is a lot lighter than most conventional hi speed polishers, however it can become heavy when you’re using it for hours on end, to polish, level, and finish a job. It cannot perform miracles, you may think it can and you may think it did. But we need to keep the job in perspective, it’s not a high-speed polisher, and we are not using wool pads here. Anything worse than moderate swirling, and you may end up wasting your time, your product, and your patience. It does deliver though, and in a big way. Light scratches and swirling will diminish with proper pad, and product selection.
The worst thing I could imagine is letting the PC loose while on hi speed, and having it run across your hood or toes! The machine is equipped with speed settings from 3-6, it come with a handle, which you should leave on until your very comfortable manipulating it. I highly recommend leaving it on for several uses. I have performed many jobs with mine and still have it on; I guess it’s my little security blanket.
I prefer to “get busy” and work on a rather large area at a time, say ½ a hood, im talking Suburban here guys. But im comfortable doing that, ive been doing it this way for some time. Until you get comfortable, and real comfy I may add, stick with a smaller section, say ¼ hood etc. I apply my product in little spots, at 12, 3, 6, 9 o’clock, to the pad. Then I smear it in with my fingers for even distribution, immediately. Set at a low speed, say 3.5 (were polishing, so its either a yellow Megs pad, or Green Excel Propel pad) set the pad on the surface, and kind of smear the product around in a small area. Turn the machine on, while holding firmly, and go to a starting point, (lets work ¼ of the hood) preferably ½ the distance from the other side, always work towards yourself, this alleviates the cord from getting on areas you have just polished. Also, it’s a good practice to put the cord over your shoulder. I use three passes for each area. My 1st pass is a left to right, this applies the product, make sure you overlap each pass at least ¼ pad width. The 2nd pass, at about 4.5-5, is a up/down pass, this gets the product in the pores, and begins the polishing stages, again, overlap each pass. The 3rd pass is where I “hook it up”! This is where I get the work done, where the clear meets its destiny, this is where edges are rounded, oxidation is removed, and product dries, im at speed 6 now. At each level, let the machine do the work, its weight, I feel is sufficient for the work desired. Now all of this aforementioned advice, works for me, with the product im using, normally Meg’s #80, or DACP, or a maintenance polish (Stuf Polish is above average) The first pass is a slow introduction pass, I move the machine slowly, but fast enough so by the end, the product hasn’t dried! Second pass, I move a little faster, but so is the machine, so there’s compensation, and finally the last pass, the machines at 6, which is a good clip. The product may actually be dried at this point, but with diminishing abrasives, that’s ok! Its very important to experiment with speeds, that your comfortable with, with the various products you may be using, to obtain the desired results your expecting.
Now with sealants, or waxes, your not expecting oxidation or swirl removal, all your worried about is even product distribution. I usually use the Excel Propel Black Finishing pad. Sealants wont dry as fast as polishes so you have more time to accomplish evenness. I usually operate the machine at about 4.5, but again, distribute, then cover…..
Last but not least, I will remove the sealant by hand with a good microfiber, then throw a new pad on the PC, lay a microfiber on the hood/deck/roof, set the machine to 4, set the machine on the microfiber, and hit the on button. Feel free to take wide paths while doing this, its amazing what that machine with a microfiber underneath it will do !!
Plush Microfibers are the best for this, and there’s no need to spend a fortune on them. For a list of providers (other than myself), just PM me. I’d be happy give you some ideas.
Good luck and I hope this has helped at least one of you
There is also a proper method for distributing product, and working the product.
Heres a write up I did for another forum:
Proper PC methods...
For those of you already familiar with a Porter Cable 7424, some of this may be old news, some new, I just hope it helps those who are just considering or just bought a PC:
Your main goal with a PC, is to give your surface, a surface treatment, unequal to what you have been doing by hand. The orbital polisher pad, travels in multi dimensional circles. The pad itself rotates, and the base itself rotates, sort of circles inside of circles. This makes it nearly impossible to leave swirl marks, due to its random movement. Also, chemicals react differently to temperatures built up within the pad and product. We’re not talking real heat, just warming it up, more than your hand could.
There are a variety of foam pads available, anything from cutting, to finishing. Obviously cutting pads which are more abrasive, will require less of an abrasive product to perform there work , whereas a more abrasive product, with a less abrasive pad, may perform identically. A cutting pad with an abrasive product rated at 5, may perform the same as a product rated at 7 with a polishing pad (less abrasive). The majority of your "maintenance" work should be performed with either a polishing or finishing pad. I’m assuming you have a backing plate ? PM me with questions……. Polishing pads may be referred to as a Meguiars yellow or Excel Propel Green, finishing pads may be referred to as a Tan Meguiars or Excel Propel Black pads. Either of the above are great for most needs, and we will only refer to these two types for this discussion.
Assuming your surface prep (wash, clay) has been completed, we can now address the capabilities and directions for use.
The PC, is a lot lighter than most conventional hi speed polishers, however it can become heavy when you’re using it for hours on end, to polish, level, and finish a job. It cannot perform miracles, you may think it can and you may think it did. But we need to keep the job in perspective, it’s not a high-speed polisher, and we are not using wool pads here. Anything worse than moderate swirling, and you may end up wasting your time, your product, and your patience. It does deliver though, and in a big way. Light scratches and swirling will diminish with proper pad, and product selection.
The worst thing I could imagine is letting the PC loose while on hi speed, and having it run across your hood or toes! The machine is equipped with speed settings from 3-6, it come with a handle, which you should leave on until your very comfortable manipulating it. I highly recommend leaving it on for several uses. I have performed many jobs with mine and still have it on; I guess it’s my little security blanket.
I prefer to “get busy” and work on a rather large area at a time, say ½ a hood, im talking Suburban here guys. But im comfortable doing that, ive been doing it this way for some time. Until you get comfortable, and real comfy I may add, stick with a smaller section, say ¼ hood etc. I apply my product in little spots, at 12, 3, 6, 9 o’clock, to the pad. Then I smear it in with my fingers for even distribution, immediately. Set at a low speed, say 3.5 (were polishing, so its either a yellow Megs pad, or Green Excel Propel pad) set the pad on the surface, and kind of smear the product around in a small area. Turn the machine on, while holding firmly, and go to a starting point, (lets work ¼ of the hood) preferably ½ the distance from the other side, always work towards yourself, this alleviates the cord from getting on areas you have just polished. Also, it’s a good practice to put the cord over your shoulder. I use three passes for each area. My 1st pass is a left to right, this applies the product, make sure you overlap each pass at least ¼ pad width. The 2nd pass, at about 4.5-5, is a up/down pass, this gets the product in the pores, and begins the polishing stages, again, overlap each pass. The 3rd pass is where I “hook it up”! This is where I get the work done, where the clear meets its destiny, this is where edges are rounded, oxidation is removed, and product dries, im at speed 6 now. At each level, let the machine do the work, its weight, I feel is sufficient for the work desired. Now all of this aforementioned advice, works for me, with the product im using, normally Meg’s #80, or DACP, or a maintenance polish (Stuf Polish is above average) The first pass is a slow introduction pass, I move the machine slowly, but fast enough so by the end, the product hasn’t dried! Second pass, I move a little faster, but so is the machine, so there’s compensation, and finally the last pass, the machines at 6, which is a good clip. The product may actually be dried at this point, but with diminishing abrasives, that’s ok! Its very important to experiment with speeds, that your comfortable with, with the various products you may be using, to obtain the desired results your expecting.
Now with sealants, or waxes, your not expecting oxidation or swirl removal, all your worried about is even product distribution. I usually use the Excel Propel Black Finishing pad. Sealants wont dry as fast as polishes so you have more time to accomplish evenness. I usually operate the machine at about 4.5, but again, distribute, then cover…..
Last but not least, I will remove the sealant by hand with a good microfiber, then throw a new pad on the PC, lay a microfiber on the hood/deck/roof, set the machine to 4, set the machine on the microfiber, and hit the on button. Feel free to take wide paths while doing this, its amazing what that machine with a microfiber underneath it will do !!
Plush Microfibers are the best for this, and there’s no need to spend a fortune on them. For a list of providers (other than myself), just PM me. I’d be happy give you some ideas.
Good luck and I hope this has helped at least one of you
DAMN how long did it take you to write that. Good info
Re: What buffer to buy...
I use the Porter Cable model 7336, same as the 7424 except it comes from the factory with a 6 inch counter weight as I use a 6 inch quick change velcro backer plate with Lake Country Foam pads.
Buy the 7336 at Lowes for 99.99 and you can get your quick change backer plate and foam pads from www.topoftheline.com
Buy the 7336 at Lowes for 99.99 and you can get your quick change backer plate and foam pads from www.topoftheline.com
Re: What buffer to buy...
How wide is the backing span on those LC pads ? You should have ample hook and loop leftover after attaching the pad to the BP, to avoid any chances of cookie cutting.....Thats why I recommend a 5" BP with 7" pads...The 7" pads I use have 6.25 inches of hook and loop, that gives you 5/8 inch additional safety.
Re: What buffer to buy...
Thanks guy. I've been able to learn quite a bit from just reading here.
I also found more info on the 7424 PC. I'm sold.
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-pc7424.html
Exceldetail... Thanks so much for you valuable information. I've got your PM.
I also found more info on the 7424 PC. I'm sold.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-pc7424.html
Exceldetail... Thanks so much for you valuable information. I've got your PM.
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