"water spots" on window
"water spots" on window
When I bought my car, I noticed some water spots on the driver's side window. No big deal, I though, I'd just wash it off.
Wrong.
No matter how many times I wash the car or scrub the window, the spots won't go away. I thought maybe that they were on the inside, trapped under the old tint, but I recently had the windows retinted and the spots were still there. Anyone have any ideas how to get rid of the darn things, short of replacing the glass?
Thanks!
Wrong.
No matter how many times I wash the car or scrub the window, the spots won't go away. I thought maybe that they were on the inside, trapped under the old tint, but I recently had the windows retinted and the spots were still there. Anyone have any ideas how to get rid of the darn things, short of replacing the glass?
Thanks!
I agree with Kevin. I use Z12 glass polish for glass problems, such as spotting.
The glass polish requires a fair amount of rubbing to break the abrasives down into a fine polish. So, basically, put a dab of glass polish on a cotton pad, spread it around on the glass then rub with medium to hard pressure in back and forth motions until you feel the polish breaking into a smooth film. When it breaks into a smooth film you should see the spots start disappearing and leave a crystal clear surface. You will need to keep rubbing until the polish almost disappears on the glass surface. At this point, reexamine the surface and see if you need another coat (for really really tough spots). Finish the glass off with a good cleaner like Invisible Glass.
I recently did a 2001 Tacoma for a relative with pretty bad water etching on each glass surface and after some Z12 and a good amount of elbow grease, the spots disappeared and it looks like new. Some surfaces required 2 applications.
The glass polish requires a fair amount of rubbing to break the abrasives down into a fine polish. So, basically, put a dab of glass polish on a cotton pad, spread it around on the glass then rub with medium to hard pressure in back and forth motions until you feel the polish breaking into a smooth film. When it breaks into a smooth film you should see the spots start disappearing and leave a crystal clear surface. You will need to keep rubbing until the polish almost disappears on the glass surface. At this point, reexamine the surface and see if you need another coat (for really really tough spots). Finish the glass off with a good cleaner like Invisible Glass.
I recently did a 2001 Tacoma for a relative with pretty bad water etching on each glass surface and after some Z12 and a good amount of elbow grease, the spots disappeared and it looks like new. Some surfaces required 2 applications.
I used the Zaino polish on my windows. Dad's new HEMI too. Took the streaks and spots off. Also got all of the factory crap off the glass.
Drool... HEMI!!!
http://68.56.73.21/~printerror/hemiglass.jpg
Drool... HEMI!!!
http://68.56.73.21/~printerror/hemiglass.jpg
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 46
From: Welcome to Chicago. Get out while you are still alive.
Try white vinigar. Its the best stuff I have found and is the cheapest. Use some in a spray bottle and some crumpled up newspaper and rub the glass. Don't have a spray bottle? Just pour some on crumpled newspaper and start rubbing. It doesn't take any real effort.
This method has worked for every waterspot that I have encounterd.
This method has worked for every waterspot that I have encounterd.
Mike, when I polish the windshiels on my truck, should I just rub the polish in medium/hard like you said until it turns clear? I always did it car-polish style, where I'd put it on medium pressure, wait for it to become dust, and quite messily remove it. Something tells me I've been doing it wrong this whole time.
Originally posted by Error - BADRAP
Mike, when I polish the windshiels on my truck, should I just rub the polish in medium/hard like you said until it turns clear? I always did it car-polish style, where I'd put it on medium pressure, wait for it to become dust, and quite messily remove it. Something tells me I've been doing it wrong this whole time.
Mike, when I polish the windshiels on my truck, should I just rub the polish in medium/hard like you said until it turns clear? I always did it car-polish style, where I'd put it on medium pressure, wait for it to become dust, and quite messily remove it. Something tells me I've been doing it wrong this whole time.
The real secret and what Sal will tell you is that you rub one small area until the glass starts to make a squeaking noise, at that point stop rubbing and move to another area.
Originally posted by Error - BADRAP
Mike, when I polish the windshiels on my truck, should I just rub the polish in medium/hard like you said until it turns clear? I always did it car-polish style, where I'd put it on medium pressure, wait for it to become dust, and quite messily remove it. Something tells me I've been doing it wrong this whole time.
Mike, when I polish the windshiels on my truck, should I just rub the polish in medium/hard like you said until it turns clear? I always did it car-polish style, where I'd put it on medium pressure, wait for it to become dust, and quite messily remove it. Something tells me I've been doing it wrong this whole time.
Yeah, you kinda have to treat the glass polish as a heavy swirl remover, only for glass as opposed to paint. You don't need to wait for it to dry, just rub until the film almost disappears from the glass. At the point where the film starts disappearing is when I notice the spots disappearing too. But it does require a fair amount of arm effort per window to really dig those tough spots out. The Z12 does not need to dust up, or you've left it on too long.
The Z12 has always done a great job for me, but it functions very differently from any other Zaino product that you might use. Instead of a light, buttery touch that you may be used to with Z2, Z5, Z6, etc....the Z12 requires some manhandling!
Since glass is very hard, it requires a "rough" cut to take out the etching.
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