Towels? Are all 100% Cotton Made in USA the same?
Thread Starter
Administrator
Joined: Dec 1997
Posts: 2,147
From: Sterling Heights, MI, USA
Towels? Are all 100% Cotton Made in USA the same?
I'm just curious. I was in Kmart and they have some Martha Stewart towels there that are pretty cheap. I looked on the tag and they say Made in the USA 100% Cotton.
Are these the same as say like Fieldcrest, etc..
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Chris Frezza / CamaroZ28.COM UBB Admin
2002 Camaro SS #1931
1995 Supercharged Camaro Z28
2001 Buick Regal GSE
Are these the same as say like Fieldcrest, etc..
------------------
Chris Frezza / CamaroZ28.COM UBB Admin
2002 Camaro SS #1931
1995 Supercharged Camaro Z28
2001 Buick Regal GSE
Registered User
Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 1,654
From: Kenton, TN, USA
These are Sal Zaino's words on towels:
Cannon & Fieldcrest make a lower quality version of their towels for K-Mart, Walmart and other big discount chains.
These towels say 100% Cotton but that is not, totally true. The nap is 100% cotton but the backing material has polyester blend in it.
So if you press a little to hard on the towel you can get some fine scratches or swirls.
The point I'm trying to make is if a Cannon or Fieldcrest towel is selling in a discount store for $6.00 or less (approximately) it is not the good stuff.
I buy all my Cannon & Fieldcrest towels in the Bath & Linen shops in the bigger stores in the mall. I pay anywhere from $10 to $20 per towel. These are the real deal. I buy about 3 or 4 towels and they usually last
me about a year.
Now for you guys that may have already purchased the lower price towels.
Look carefully at your paint finish when you are using your towels. If you are not getting any swirls or fine scratches, then you are okay. Remember it's better to be safe than swirly.
Another problem I'm seeing is some of you guys are using powdered detergent to wash your towels. Powdered detergents contain granules that do not fully dissolve in the wash cycle and get trapped in the nap of
the towels, these granules will scratch your paint finish.... Only use Liquid detergents like All or Tide. Also do not use Bleach or any kind of fabric softner.
You must use only white. Not colored towels.....Colored towels are not
to be used because the dye leaves a chemical residue on the paint finish. Always wash your towels first before using. Use Liquid detergent and rinse twice.
You should cut the selvages(borders) off the perimeter of the towels. This selvage contains nylon and polyester stitching that could possibly scratch your paint finish. The towels will fray a little once this is
done. But it's better to play it safe.
Drying the towels on high heat will make them hold a static charge. I use the regular heat setting and remove them a little damp and let them air dry. You can fluff the towel real good when it's dry to make it
softer.
As the towels get older they will lose there nap and absorbency and will have to be replaced.
Hope this ends any confusion...
------------------
96 Black Impala SS
Authorized Zaino Showcar Polish Distributor
www.zainobros.com
Remember #3
Cannon & Fieldcrest make a lower quality version of their towels for K-Mart, Walmart and other big discount chains.
These towels say 100% Cotton but that is not, totally true. The nap is 100% cotton but the backing material has polyester blend in it.
So if you press a little to hard on the towel you can get some fine scratches or swirls.
The point I'm trying to make is if a Cannon or Fieldcrest towel is selling in a discount store for $6.00 or less (approximately) it is not the good stuff.
I buy all my Cannon & Fieldcrest towels in the Bath & Linen shops in the bigger stores in the mall. I pay anywhere from $10 to $20 per towel. These are the real deal. I buy about 3 or 4 towels and they usually last
me about a year.
Now for you guys that may have already purchased the lower price towels.
Look carefully at your paint finish when you are using your towels. If you are not getting any swirls or fine scratches, then you are okay. Remember it's better to be safe than swirly.
Another problem I'm seeing is some of you guys are using powdered detergent to wash your towels. Powdered detergents contain granules that do not fully dissolve in the wash cycle and get trapped in the nap of
the towels, these granules will scratch your paint finish.... Only use Liquid detergents like All or Tide. Also do not use Bleach or any kind of fabric softner.
You must use only white. Not colored towels.....Colored towels are not
to be used because the dye leaves a chemical residue on the paint finish. Always wash your towels first before using. Use Liquid detergent and rinse twice.
You should cut the selvages(borders) off the perimeter of the towels. This selvage contains nylon and polyester stitching that could possibly scratch your paint finish. The towels will fray a little once this is
done. But it's better to play it safe.
Drying the towels on high heat will make them hold a static charge. I use the regular heat setting and remove them a little damp and let them air dry. You can fluff the towel real good when it's dry to make it
softer.
As the towels get older they will lose there nap and absorbency and will have to be replaced.
Hope this ends any confusion...
------------------
96 Black Impala SS
Authorized Zaino Showcar Polish Distributor
www.zainobros.com
Remember #3
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,564
From: Memphis, TN
Well, according to the tag, they sound OK, but, in some instances even manufacturers that claim to produce all cotton aren't really pure cotton. Also, did you notice how soft or rough they felt and the thickness of the nap? For instance, the Cannon brand, that also makes the upper line Charisma and Royal Velvet, make several qualities of toweling, but they all claim 100% cotton, made in USA. But, after "caressing" the lower quality makes, they literally feel like sandpaper compared with the Charisma or RV. They are very stiff and just not something I'd want to use on a paint finish. The softer and thicker the towel, the better your chances of causing little to no marring when using them.
All that being said, I have never seen or felt the Stewart line of towels. From the discription they sound fine, but as we all know, there's more to products than just a description. If they are really soft and plush, I'd give em a go!
------------------
*Mike's 1992 Camaro RS 25th Anniv.*
Dark Red Metallic (ext.) / Flame Red (int.)
Flowmaster Crossflow, K&N, 20% 3M Panther Black Tint
JL Audio 3 10", PPI PC2100, Kenwood eXcelon KRC-953H/U, Kenwood / Pioneer speakers
Show Car Shine by ZAINO! - Special Thanks to Sal Z!
[This message has been edited by MikeLS (edited July 29, 2002).]
All that being said, I have never seen or felt the Stewart line of towels. From the discription they sound fine, but as we all know, there's more to products than just a description. If they are really soft and plush, I'd give em a go!
------------------
*Mike's 1992 Camaro RS 25th Anniv.*
Dark Red Metallic (ext.) / Flame Red (int.)
Flowmaster Crossflow, K&N, 20% 3M Panther Black Tint
JL Audio 3 10", PPI PC2100, Kenwood eXcelon KRC-953H/U, Kenwood / Pioneer speakers
Show Car Shine by ZAINO! - Special Thanks to Sal Z!
[This message has been edited by MikeLS (edited July 29, 2002).]
Thread Starter
Administrator
Joined: Dec 1997
Posts: 2,147
From: Sterling Heights, MI, USA
Thanks guys, that answers my question perfectly
------------------
Chris Frezza / CamaroZ28.COM UBB Admin
2002 Camaro SS #1931
1995 Supercharged Camaro Z28
2001 Buick Regal GSE
------------------
Chris Frezza / CamaroZ28.COM UBB Admin
2002 Camaro SS #1931
1995 Supercharged Camaro Z28
2001 Buick Regal GSE
Registered User
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 210
From: Cincinnati, OH
KevinSS, I gotta disdagree with you on the powder versus liquid detergent comment. The propensity for a laundry chemical to deposit on or in a fabric has more to do with factors far more significant that product form. For a detergent, the most important factors relating to redeposition have to do with surfactant concentration and wash time. The idea behind cleaning is to have a surfactant (e.g., tri-sulphur polyphosphate akak TSPP) lift contaminents from a fabric and quickly rinse them away.
One of the factors contributing to redeposition are the chemicals used to "create" suds. Suds have nothing to do with cleaning a fabric. Detergents such as the ones you mentioned use chemicals to artificially create suds. Those chemicals reduce the effectiveness of surfactants. That is why the products you mentioned have very high levels of surfactants.
For clean towels, use Woolite with a medium warm water level for a short to medium cycle followed 2 high, cold water rinses. A fabric softener such as Downy can be used as it assists the fabrics natural ability to absorb water.
The development of liquid detergents was driven by the needs of the commercial laundry industry to automatically dispense chemicals into large, controlled wash wheels. Have you ever felt towels ina cheap hotel? Notice how they feel horrible on your skin? You can actually feel the excess alkalai in the fabric. These towels are washed with liquid detergents.
------------------
2000 SS #1547
President,
Cadre Computer Resources, Inc.
www.ccr.com
One of the factors contributing to redeposition are the chemicals used to "create" suds. Suds have nothing to do with cleaning a fabric. Detergents such as the ones you mentioned use chemicals to artificially create suds. Those chemicals reduce the effectiveness of surfactants. That is why the products you mentioned have very high levels of surfactants.
For clean towels, use Woolite with a medium warm water level for a short to medium cycle followed 2 high, cold water rinses. A fabric softener such as Downy can be used as it assists the fabrics natural ability to absorb water.
The development of liquid detergents was driven by the needs of the commercial laundry industry to automatically dispense chemicals into large, controlled wash wheels. Have you ever felt towels ina cheap hotel? Notice how they feel horrible on your skin? You can actually feel the excess alkalai in the fabric. These towels are washed with liquid detergents.
------------------
2000 SS #1547
President,
Cadre Computer Resources, Inc.
www.ccr.com
Registered User
Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 1,654
From: Kenton, TN, USA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Bearcat Steve:
KevinSS, I gotta disdagree with you on the powder versus liquid detergent comment. The propensity for a laundry chemical to deposit on or in a fabric has more to do with factors far more significant that product form. For a detergent, the most important factors relating to redeposition have to do with surfactant concentration and wash time. The idea behind cleaning is to have a surfactant (e.g., tri-sulphur polyphosphate akak TSPP) lift contaminents from a fabric and quickly rinse them away.
One of the factors contributing to redeposition are the chemicals used to "create" suds. Suds have nothing to do with cleaning a fabric. Detergents such as the ones you mentioned use chemicals to artificially create suds. Those chemicals reduce the effectiveness of surfactants. That is why the products you mentioned have very high levels of surfactants.
For clean towels, use Woolite with a medium warm water level for a short to medium cycle followed 2 high, cold water rinses. A fabric softener such as Downy can be used as it assists the fabrics natural ability to absorb water.
The development of liquid detergents was driven by the needs of the commercial laundry industry to automatically dispense chemicals into large, controlled wash wheels. Have you ever felt towels ina cheap hotel? Notice how they feel horrible on your skin? You can actually feel the excess alkalai in the fabric. These towels are washed with liquid detergents.
</font>
KevinSS, I gotta disdagree with you on the powder versus liquid detergent comment. The propensity for a laundry chemical to deposit on or in a fabric has more to do with factors far more significant that product form. For a detergent, the most important factors relating to redeposition have to do with surfactant concentration and wash time. The idea behind cleaning is to have a surfactant (e.g., tri-sulphur polyphosphate akak TSPP) lift contaminents from a fabric and quickly rinse them away.
One of the factors contributing to redeposition are the chemicals used to "create" suds. Suds have nothing to do with cleaning a fabric. Detergents such as the ones you mentioned use chemicals to artificially create suds. Those chemicals reduce the effectiveness of surfactants. That is why the products you mentioned have very high levels of surfactants.
For clean towels, use Woolite with a medium warm water level for a short to medium cycle followed 2 high, cold water rinses. A fabric softener such as Downy can be used as it assists the fabrics natural ability to absorb water.
The development of liquid detergents was driven by the needs of the commercial laundry industry to automatically dispense chemicals into large, controlled wash wheels. Have you ever felt towels ina cheap hotel? Notice how they feel horrible on your skin? You can actually feel the excess alkalai in the fabric. These towels are washed with liquid detergents.
</font>
Well I have to mutually disagree with you as the granules do not always wash out of the nap of the towel and WILL!!!!! scratch the finish, so only use liquid detergent. Case in point, if you have The Absorber chamois (I bought two of them today) if you look on the washing instructions it says ONLY use liquid detergent, NO powder.
Use what you want, But I have made probably 1,000 towels in the last year or so for my customers and they only use liquid.
------------------
96 Black Impala SS
Authorized Zaino Showcar Polish Distributor
www.zainobros.com
Remember #3
Registered User
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 210
From: Cincinnati, OH
KevinSS, I'm a little disappointed in you. You take great pains to point out the content and general chemistry of Zaino when comparing it to other products. I too like Zaino, but I must admit that I am unfamiliar with its makeup or that of any of the other popular or controversial products. You seem to like to aggressively point out that other people's annecdotal evidence is inconsequential when comparing personal stories to hard facts -- aggresive almost to the point of calling those who don't agree with you "stupid".
Yet, when facts are presented that you don't agree with with, you adopt the same strategy of the polish products proponents you so oppose. That is, you rely on anecdotal evidence, ignore facts, and proclaim you know better.
Unfortunately, it would appear that you are unwittingly undermining your own credibility with your aggresive and sometimes unsubstanciated stance on more subjects that are clearly not within the realm of your personal expertise. One thing life has taught me is that true credibility arises not from being right on everything. Rather crediblity blossoms when the humility of the lack of expertise is shared.
------------------
2000 SS #1547
President,
Cadre Computer Resources, Inc.
www.ccr.com
Yet, when facts are presented that you don't agree with with, you adopt the same strategy of the polish products proponents you so oppose. That is, you rely on anecdotal evidence, ignore facts, and proclaim you know better.
Unfortunately, it would appear that you are unwittingly undermining your own credibility with your aggresive and sometimes unsubstanciated stance on more subjects that are clearly not within the realm of your personal expertise. One thing life has taught me is that true credibility arises not from being right on everything. Rather crediblity blossoms when the humility of the lack of expertise is shared.
------------------
2000 SS #1547
President,
Cadre Computer Resources, Inc.
www.ccr.com
Registered User
Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 1,654
From: Kenton, TN, USA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Bearcat Steve:
KevinSS, I'm a little disappointed in you. You take great pains to point out the content and general chemistry of Zaino when comparing it to other products. I too like Zaino, but I must admit that I am unfamiliar with its makeup or that of any of the other popular or controversial products. You seem to like to aggressively point out that other people's annecdotal evidence is inconsequential when comparing personal stories to hard facts -- aggresive almost to the point of calling those who don't agree with you "stupid".
Yet, when facts are presented that you don't agree with with, you adopt the same strategy of the polish products proponents you so oppose. That is, you rely on anecdotal evidence, ignore facts, and proclaim you know better.
Unfortunately, it would appear that you are unwittingly undermining your own credibility with your aggresive and sometimes unsubstanciated stance on more subjects that are clearly not within the realm of your personal expertise. One thing life has taught me is that true credibility arises not from being right on everything. Rather crediblity blossoms when the humility of the lack of expertise is shared.
</font>
KevinSS, I'm a little disappointed in you. You take great pains to point out the content and general chemistry of Zaino when comparing it to other products. I too like Zaino, but I must admit that I am unfamiliar with its makeup or that of any of the other popular or controversial products. You seem to like to aggressively point out that other people's annecdotal evidence is inconsequential when comparing personal stories to hard facts -- aggresive almost to the point of calling those who don't agree with you "stupid".
Yet, when facts are presented that you don't agree with with, you adopt the same strategy of the polish products proponents you so oppose. That is, you rely on anecdotal evidence, ignore facts, and proclaim you know better.
Unfortunately, it would appear that you are unwittingly undermining your own credibility with your aggresive and sometimes unsubstanciated stance on more subjects that are clearly not within the realm of your personal expertise. One thing life has taught me is that true credibility arises not from being right on everything. Rather crediblity blossoms when the humility of the lack of expertise is shared.
</font>
BTW, I am very familar with the makeup of Zaino and most any other wax or polish product you can name, I guess you want me to be ashamed of my knowledge, but I will not be. If you would like to discuss my knowledge further I will gladly give you my phone number.
And another BTW, I did not ask for this job as moderator, I was asked by the previous moderator to take over for him.
------------------
96 Black Impala SS
Authorized Zaino Showcar Polish Distributor
www.zainobros.com
Remember #3
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 882
From: Louisville, KY
KevinSS has been doing a great job for as long as I've been on the boards and before that.
By the way, I wouldn't use granular soap either on my car towels. The granules don't always dissolve completely or rinse away completely. I'd rather be safe than sorry.
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Kevin Villier, 2002 SS #186 - 6M with Hurst and "short-stick", TT, navy blue, chrome SS wheels, Bilstein suspension, SS grill, STB, SLP loudmouth, Direct-Flo lid with Holley filter and Mallory polished MAF ends.
Louisville, KY
By the way, I wouldn't use granular soap either on my car towels. The granules don't always dissolve completely or rinse away completely. I'd rather be safe than sorry.
------------------
Kevin Villier, 2002 SS #186 - 6M with Hurst and "short-stick", TT, navy blue, chrome SS wheels, Bilstein suspension, SS grill, STB, SLP loudmouth, Direct-Flo lid with Holley filter and Mallory polished MAF ends.
Louisville, KY
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