My regiment consists, at a minimum, of a coat of klasse sealant or two about every 8 months. Then, at least once a month, I coat with a carnuba wax - one grand blitz wax (yeah, I know it's not the greatest, I'll try some s100 when I run out). Anyways, I've been wanting to try a carnuba glaze in there somewhere so I bought and tried some 3m imperial hand glaze.. seemed to really make the car shine when put on before the carnuba. I dunno though, it may have been my imagination because of my expectations.. though some guy at the gas station though my heavily flawed black 96 was a 2002 model So, I have heard two stories about glaze - they "nourish" the paint (I tend to doubt this) and they add depth and hide flaws because they act as a sort of "filler" (more believable). So, if someone wants to divulge there knowledge and experiences with carnuba glazes (esp. 3m imperial hand glaze) I would greatly appreciate it.

Also, does anyone think there would be a benefit to applying this over klasse and under a carnuba wax? What if I layer the two? Specifically, I may apply glaze then carnuba and then next week apply glaze again over the previous coat of carnuba (the previous coat of blitz wax couldn't possibly be gone this fast.. and no I don't want a discussion on the great durability of zaino.. so don't bother) and then follow with the wax again. I guess the question is, is a carnuba glaze worthwhile if it is not the first coat applied to the clean paint? If the answer is no then I certainly won't be using it since klasse always goes on first..

So help me out here guys.. please.

 

First off, I love Klasse Sealant Glaze too When I had it on I topped it with S100 but Blitz is a good wax. It lasts a long time and gives a good shine.

Now, glazes were originaly designed for body shops and shouldn't contain any silicone (Silicone + Auto Painting = BAD!). The will usually contain mild abrasives though to help remove swirls as a bodyshop will compound to remove sandpaper marks and then glaze to remove the swirls from compounding and make the paint crystal clear for the customer. Since the glaze doesn't contain a silicone or a wax and won't seal the paint, then it is perfectly fine to have it applied over fresh paint.

Some glazes fill and some do not; most do though. You'll have to check. I know 3m Imperial Hand Glaze is a filling glaze with some mild abrasives in it. 3M also had another one I saw that was mainly fillers. Forgot the name of the product though. Glazes should be applied before you wax simply because some can leave oily streaks on the suface, which should go away after waxing. Some of the 3m products do this as well as some of the other glazes I have used. One Grand Omega Glaze is also another good one. Might want to check it out.

For your vehicle I would put the Klasse on, let it cure, then glaze and layer on some carnauba wax. When you are ready to wax again, then you can reapply the glaze and put some more wax on. I don't think it is necessary to put a glaze on before each coat of wax unless you really think it is necessary for your vehicle. Some waxes do contain oils that will act as fillers and give your paint a darker look.

Also, the whole nourish the paint thing with glazes, etc. is BS.

 

I hate to be the bearer of potentially bad news. I am a glaze/sealant/ carnuaba user. The only problem I see with your scenerio is that the 3M IHG may have stripped the Klasse from the finish. Not sure, but I know from experience that glazes like 3m IHG, P21S GEPC ( gloss enhancing paint cleanser), Meg#9, Meg#7, Mother Glaze & Sealer, etc all have some very mild abrasives, be it solvents or physical elements in solution that will remove sealants like Zaino and Blackfire. Klasse? The benefit of using glazes is their "make-up" abilities (mild polishing and filling) prior to topping with a protectant ( i.e carnuaba ). They are also great prepping tools for sealants. If you are using Klasse you probably pre-treat with AIO before applying the sealant which performs like a glaze without the oils (mild polish).
If you like the appearance of your car with this new regimen that you tried, you might consider using a paint (glaze) cleanser ( P21S GEPC, 3M IHG, Clearkote Vanilla Moose, S100 SEPC, MEG #9 or Mother's Glaze) prior to the Klasse AIO, top with 3-4 coats of Klasse SG and top with a carnuaba ( P21S, Souveran, Pinnacle Glaz). If you like IHG you will love P21S/S100 GEPC/SEPC. They are a lot easier to use and produce a better gloss finish without streaking. Easy-on and easy-off. Blitz is okay but these listed carnuabas give more of the glaze-like final appearance that you seem to enjoy.
With the Klasse locking in the gloss enhanced finish and topping with a carnuaba will give you great protection. The monthly application of only a elite carnuaba will rejuveniate that deep, wet, reflective glow that black paint requires to look rich.

 

A glaze, like the 3M IHG, is mostly fillers but it does contains some light abrasive content for removing very light marring. So, if you applied the IHG after the Klasse, it will have completely removed the Klasse from the surface. I'm not sure a glaze would fit into your equation too well. If I were going to use it in your case, it would be before you apply the Klasse, as the very first step. Then apply some AIO, then SG, then top with whatever wax you want. Applyting this glaze anywhere else in your process would remove anything you may have applied previously. I think of the IHG as a really really light 3M SMR, with more filling than removing. However, the filling is very short term. As far as it "nourishing" the paint.......that's basically crap. IHG contains a mineral oil as the filler/shine ingredient. Your paint doesn't need any oil to keep it in "good health."

So, you might want to approach it like this:
1. 3M IHG, 3M SMR, Meguiar's #9, whatever abrasive you like
2. Wash or QD then, Klasse AIO
3. K SG
4. Wax - Blitz is pretty good, you'd probably like P21S/S100 or Pinnacle Souveran much better.


If you are alternating the glaze + wax routine after applying Klasse, you basically have no klasse left on the surface and just the wax protecting the paint. If you want to continue glazing and waxing, you need to use a carnauba specific routine of glazing and waxing and forget the sealant, unless you want to use AIO as a cleaner and nothing more. Any abrasives you use after applying the sealant will completely remove all your efforts of applying the sealant. I'd use any abrasives first in the process, otherwise you're wasting a lot of effort because you're removing products you took the time to apply.

And, no, no Zaino preaching was needed here!

 

First, you guys are a big help, I really value your advice.. so thanks

I've been detailing the camaro for a few years now and have done some detailing for others on the side.. I've learned a lot along the way too.. I guess the trouble for me is the poor/loose definition of glaze vs. polish. If the 3m has mild abrasvies then I'd almost consider it a polish like the 3m SMR.. I was under the impression that the imperial hand glaze was non abrasive which is what I wanted.. so, what are some good non abrasive glazes? The omega? I understand completely what you all are saying about using an abrasive over the klasse.. that's why I wanted a non abrasive glaze. However, by that same token wouldn't using the AIO (I don't own any regardless) remove the glaze and anything else applied before it since the AIO is a cleaner/abrasive also

I also assumed that sealing over a carnuba product was not a good idea because what with the poor longevity of the carnuba it seems that the carnuba would "come off" and take anything applied over it (klasse sealant) off with it. Am I wrong here? Will the klasse seal everything under it in and keep it there for 6 - 8 months? If this is the case then I seriously need to reconsider my routine.



Regardless, I really felt that glaze added some warm glow to the car.. it even looked pretty darn good under the gas station's flourescent lighting and the black paint on this car certainly has numerous defects (seems to be covered will little chips/pits - it was that way when I bought it). Someday I'll get around to having it repainted.. maybe when I'm not on a college budget

 

I understand your desire for a "pure" glaze. I have not yet found one that fills that description. The closest "glaze-like" producing product I have used is P21S/S100 and Pinnacle Souveran. That is why I mentioned using the 3M IHG, Klasse SG x 3-5 topped with P21S. With this regimen you will get the repairing and filling effects of the glaze, long-term protection from the Klasse, and glaze-like wetness, depth and reflectivity from the P21S/Souveran. Each month top only was with P21S or if you desire Dawn wash, add a layer of SG and top with P21S.
Everytime you use the 3M IHG consider yourself as starting over the Klasse/P21S cycle. As long as you are using good washing techniques and not imposing new surface damage, the use of 3M IHG will not be necessary. Just a quality QD or another layer of P21S .

 

Yes, the AIO would remove anything previously appled as well. The benefit of applying something like 3M IHG, SMR, or P21S GEPC would be for it's swirl removing or paint cleaning ability. Yes, a glaze will deposit more oil than most waxes, but it's the abrasive that won't allow you to use the glaze over a wax or sealant without removing it. Most good sealants won't bond with the oils from these glaze or polish type products. And, yep, I'd consider the IHG as a "polish", albeit a very mild one.

You don't want to apply any sealat over a carnauba wax. First, it likely won't bond to the paint and secondly, yes, your're correct in that as the carnauba wears off so will the sealant. The sealant needs to be the foundation from which you build upon, like a slab of concrete (the foundation) from which you build a new house. Once the sealant bonds, it should protect for several months. However, I'm of the theory that applying waxes, like Blitz, on top of any sealant will either degrade the sealant or end up removing it alltogether after applying the wax a time or two, or three. Keep in mind, most carnauba paste waxes are 60-80% naphtha or heavy naphtha by volume, which is a somewhat stong solvent. I personally believe this solvent will eventually take off any sealant after a while, leaving just the wax on the surface. This is just my thought, and several like to apply waxes over Klasse.

As far as nonabrasive glazes, you might look into Mother's Sealer and Glaze. I "think" this is a nonabrasive glaze, however I may be wrong as I have not used it. Meguiar's #7 is probably less abrasive than the 3M IHG, although it likely contains more solvent. I don't think there are many true glazes that are completely nonabrasive. Most of them still contain some form of abrasive to either clean the paint or remove light marring. That's why I'd recommend using any abrasives or cleaners as the initial steps in the process, otherwise you're undoing your hard work.

 

Unfortunately, Mother's Sealer and Glaze does have a small amount of physical abrasives. I have corresponded with Forrest at Mothers about a non-abrasive glaze and he explained that in order for the resins in the Mother's S&G to be "released" the micelles must be broken down by an abrasive material. I have looked long and hard to find a glaze with zero abrasives and solvents or a product that gives a "glaze-like" appearance with filling. No luck. As mentioned earlier this effect is very while replicated by waxes like P21S which are high in oils when used with a sealant that has been applied to a surface the was treated with a glaze. If fear of decrease bonding of Klasse with a glaze pre-treated surface the use of a glaze that is lower in oils but develop their gloss via increase micro-polishing. P21S GEPC, S100 SEPC and Clearkote Vanilla Moose will fit the bill along with Mothers.
3M IHG,Meg #7 & #9 are high in oil content.