Im looking to buy a Hot Cam kit or a comp cam(503,306,305) with all the necessary valve train parts in order for my pops and I to just install everything, tune the pc and go. I do not like the idea of mismatching parts and having a car that i hate. Im open to pretty much any kit as long as it has everything, but in specific a hotcam kit, or cc in the above order of interest. Thanks!
Vince

 

I have a brand new set of Comp Cams Roller rockers for sale that are top of the line. If you need help finding or matching parts for a valetrain assembly I can help. I do not think Comp just outright sells a cam kit, but I do hvae all the part numbers needed.

 

do u mind listing them for me? if you got a second an least? Say the parts list for a CC306 cam, minus the water pump timing chain and opti. Appreciate it
Vince

 

i have a le2.2 cam for sale. its similar to a cc306.

 

Get a Summit catalog and/or site and look for these. Summit catalogs and site are free and make for a good way to reference things or check prices.

CC306 - Find it under the LT1 section 230/244 .510/.540 112LSA
Crane Spring Kit - 10308 (Includes retainers) [You can also run K-800 K-Motions or Beehives but beehives will cost much more]
Pushrods - Any one peice pushrod, usually chromoly, 7.200 length for stock replacement, no pressed on ends - Comp Magnums/Trickflow/Comp Hi-tech's
GM Valve seals - [I recommend replacing whenever you do valvetrain work, not absolutely necessary, but a good idea]
New keepers

If you getting new rockers make sure you get full roller rockers. Comp Pro Mags or Crane/GMPP 1.6 ratio. Stock LT1's come with self aligning 3/8" stud rockers. You cant get the same in a full rocker, but for an agressive cam I recommend going non-self aligning and getting GMPP guideplates. Also if you can upgrade to 7/16" studs instead of the 3/8" stock ones. The valvetrain will be more stable, stiffer, and more reliable with the non self aligning rockers and 7/16" studs.

The LE2 series cams are much like CC306 in size. They will usually be more driver friendly and put up similar numbers, but sometimes require more tuning. They also are designed to run with beehive springs, but you can speak with Bret Bauer about those details since he makes them.

Before all of these make sure you have the supporting bolt ons, gears, and clutch to help the cam perform well. Also get your suspension and tires sorted out so you can put the power to good use. Running a cam without the right tuning, exhaust, and/or intake with make it run like crap.

Hope that helps out.

-Dustin-

 

Dustin is a good guy and beat me to the punch.

There are better cam grinds out there currently than the 306. I think you should look more into your setup, goals, how the car will be used. List those up for us and we can try to help you even more.

 

Thanks for the compliment man. But you hurt my feelings I'll be running a CC306 by the end of the month. Although I cant say that if I had the money for a custom grind and matching components that I'd still run it.

-Dustin-

 

Dustin, I by no means meant running a 306 was a dumb idea. Just some people who are new to the game like to cram in a big cam with no clue about the proper valetrain or supporting mods and don't run where they are supposed to.

You have all the supporting mods, and custom grinds are not cheap as you stated. Custom LT1 cams are the price of an LS1 cam

 

I'm just joking around with ya. The CC306 is perfect for my plans with the car, but it took me a long time on this site to figure out where I wanted to go, not to mention how to get there.

I hear that. I'd run a BRE cam, but I dont want to dump extra cash into the supporting valvetrain. Maybe on the rebuild.

Thanks again man.

-Dustin-