Powerdyne supercharger kit
Sold!!!
SOLD!
Looking to upgrade to a vortech or procharger, need more boost. this just doesnt move enough air for my engine. ive got a few options for pulleys with this kit that ive gathered over the years as well as a rebuild kit with sk ceramic bearings and kevlar belt. ive custom fabbed the pressure side tubing but you'd have to remove your ABS to use it (the ABS delete kit is like $120 and about evens out the weight you put back in). It was originally a 4.5 psi kit which i added a 7" drive pulley, and changed out the s/c pulley to the 6 psi pulley. I managed to push 6 psi out of this setup on my heads/cam engine and ran a best of 7.42 with a 1.65 60' on 150 shot from about 30ft. out (traction limited) on a 3900 lb. car with driver. Ive also added a bosch style by-pass valve on the charge pipe before the MAF. This prevents belt damage from slamming the throttle closed under boost. I have the fuel management unit from the kit, but I didnt use it as I had injectors and tuning capabilities (might be able to help you out with a basic tune depending on your setup). This is a non-intercooled kit. I paid $1500 for it originally, and dumped about another $250 into it with silicone couplers and pulleys and another $200 for the rebuild kit, which I never needed. This kit will easily put a stock f-body into the LOW 12's. and capable of about 10-12 psi on a stock eng with the pullies I got. Would come with the original 6.5 drive pulley also.
Looking to upgrade to a vortech or procharger, need more boost. this just doesnt move enough air for my engine. ive got a few options for pulleys with this kit that ive gathered over the years as well as a rebuild kit with sk ceramic bearings and kevlar belt. ive custom fabbed the pressure side tubing but you'd have to remove your ABS to use it (the ABS delete kit is like $120 and about evens out the weight you put back in). It was originally a 4.5 psi kit which i added a 7" drive pulley, and changed out the s/c pulley to the 6 psi pulley. I managed to push 6 psi out of this setup on my heads/cam engine and ran a best of 7.42 with a 1.65 60' on 150 shot from about 30ft. out (traction limited) on a 3900 lb. car with driver. Ive also added a bosch style by-pass valve on the charge pipe before the MAF. This prevents belt damage from slamming the throttle closed under boost. I have the fuel management unit from the kit, but I didnt use it as I had injectors and tuning capabilities (might be able to help you out with a basic tune depending on your setup). This is a non-intercooled kit. I paid $1500 for it originally, and dumped about another $250 into it with silicone couplers and pulleys and another $200 for the rebuild kit, which I never needed. This kit will easily put a stock f-body into the LOW 12's. and capable of about 10-12 psi on a stock eng with the pullies I got. Would come with the original 6.5 drive pulley also.
Last edited by blown94; Aug 22, 2009 at 07:58 AM. Reason: sold
A few questions:
Has the unit ever been rebuilt?
Why did you change the pressure side?
Do you have all the original tubing, mounts, and everything else (intake, exhaust sides)?
Do those additional pullies over spin the unit?
Hal
Has the unit ever been rebuilt?
Why did you change the pressure side?
Do you have all the original tubing, mounts, and everything else (intake, exhaust sides)?
Do those additional pullies over spin the unit?
Hal
I believe the guy who owned it b4 me said he had it rebuilt once with the upgraded ceramic bearings, which are capable of 43000 rpm, the stockers are only rated to 36k. The way I have it setup right now it will spin a tad over 43k rpm @ 6000 engine RPM, and I haven't had any issues with it, hence the rebuild kit sitting in my toolbox for so long the box is dusty.
As for the changes I made, its because the kit was originally a 4.5 psi kit, and I was planning on spinning it up making at least 6 psi or more. The 6 psi kit or higher is recommended to have a by-pass valve installed in it, or you WILL cause internal damage to the belt whenever you go from boost to closed throttle. The pressure buildup from this is like throwing the brakes on the outlet side of the supercharger, while the engine is still pushing the intake side to build more boost. This is what breaks the belts, they need a release path (the bypass valve). The way powerdyne had it setup, the MAF sensor is on the suck side, so if you have a by-pass valve and you're reading incoming air thats being blown off under part throttle driving, you're telling the PCM theres more air coming in than in reality. Soooo,.....I move the MAF to the pressure side for ease of tuning, between the throttle body and the by-pass valve, so its only reading actual air enternig the engine. Its all really just to ease the tuning phase, because you can just add fuel based upon 0" of vacuum (when you hit boost) and increment it by RPM as a %.
As far as al the original stuff, the only thing I really modified was the tube that goes from the supercharger outlet, directly to the intake elbow, I cut a small portion of it off and used it on my intake side because it had a nice tight 90 degree bend, and I drilled and taped where the fitting connects to my by-pass valve, which you can see in the pics (hanging off a rubber hose near the driver headlight area).
As for the changes I made, its because the kit was originally a 4.5 psi kit, and I was planning on spinning it up making at least 6 psi or more. The 6 psi kit or higher is recommended to have a by-pass valve installed in it, or you WILL cause internal damage to the belt whenever you go from boost to closed throttle. The pressure buildup from this is like throwing the brakes on the outlet side of the supercharger, while the engine is still pushing the intake side to build more boost. This is what breaks the belts, they need a release path (the bypass valve). The way powerdyne had it setup, the MAF sensor is on the suck side, so if you have a by-pass valve and you're reading incoming air thats being blown off under part throttle driving, you're telling the PCM theres more air coming in than in reality. Soooo,.....I move the MAF to the pressure side for ease of tuning, between the throttle body and the by-pass valve, so its only reading actual air enternig the engine. Its all really just to ease the tuning phase, because you can just add fuel based upon 0" of vacuum (when you hit boost) and increment it by RPM as a %.
As far as al the original stuff, the only thing I really modified was the tube that goes from the supercharger outlet, directly to the intake elbow, I cut a small portion of it off and used it on my intake side because it had a nice tight 90 degree bend, and I drilled and taped where the fitting connects to my by-pass valve, which you can see in the pics (hanging off a rubber hose near the driver headlight area).
Back up for sale guys. Ive gone through the unit and installed the new upgraded bearings. These bearings are rated to 60k rpm peak and I have a 2.62 pulley for it, which should be good for about 10-12 psi with the 7" crank pulley I have. It will also come with the stock crank pulley, and a 4.5 psi pulley, and a 6 psi, which made about 6 psi on my H/C/E 350 with the 7" crank. Ive come across a good deal on something bigger and I wont need this. It hasn't been run since rebuild. Id like to get 1700 + ship for the entire kit.
Last edited by blown94; Aug 4, 2009 at 01:16 PM.
SOLD SOLD SOLD. Thanks Dan for helping pave the way to bigger and better. She was a good little unit for entry level, and nice and stealthy with the belt drive. Your victims never suspect a thing.
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