Jason Short

If you are thinking/planning to build a stroker, here is an opportunity to buy one for slightly more than the cost of the block prep alone!

Here is the deal: It needs a new crank. The very end of the crank snout spun off a few weeks ago on me. No metal went through the motor, it was a clean break right behind the timing gear. The motor was still running after the break and the oil pressure was 100% normal. I actually thought the opti failed before I found out what really happened!

Now for the good stuff This motor was built my MORE Performance in Charlotte, NC back when they were in business. It was one of the best engines they built and has performed flawlessly for 5 years. This was a $5k shortblock and all the best parts were used. This engine made 650rwhp in my car (Vortech T-trim) and consistantly ran low 10's@137-138 in the 1/4.

Here are the details:

-1994 LT1 block
-Oliver Billet 4-bolt caps
-ARP main studs
-JE Extreme Duty (2618) -31cc custom dished pistons (blower/turbo)
-Lunati 4340 Pro Mod forged rods (5.85")
-Callies Racemaster 3.875" crank (needs to be replaced)
-Melling high volume pump
-Comp cams blower grind (230/242 114LS)
-stock GM lifters (new when the engine was built)

The block prep alone was $1300 which included:

-Block cleaning
-Magnaflux
-Oil drainback in valley were all radiused for improved flow
-Stroker clearancing on pan rail
-Oliver Billet 10 degree 4-bolt splayed main caps
-4 bolt splayed conversion (drill/tap)
-line bore/hone
-.031" bore
-hone with torque plates
-block decked
-holes chamfered
-block cleaning
-new freeze plugs
-paint block (gloss black)

Another nice thing about this shortblock is that the Lunati rods do not require as much clearancing on the block pan rail area...thus leaving significantly more material around the water jackets.

The bores look just as they did the day it was machined. No wear on the thrust side, no visable wear on the piston skirts. This motor was built well!

I also have a Canton 242T pan for it if the buyer is interested.

Here is the cost breakdown when it was built:

Pistons: $875
Rods: $850
Crank: $1260
Machining/block prep (including the cost of caps): $1300
Balancing: $275
Cam: $290
Lifters: $110
Rings/bearings: $210

Total: $5000+

Block w/Oliver caps and studs $800
Pistons/rods SOLD
Cam $150

Jason Short

Some people have also asked on parting it out. Here are the individual prices:

Pistons/rods: SOLD
Block w/caps $800
Cam: $150

Or, make a fair offer on what you want and I'll see what I can do.

Jason Short

To the top. The block/caps are still available and in beautiful condition!

Jason Short

I just spoke with Moldex and the crank can be repaired for around $400. So, if someone is interested in the block and crank (as is), I'll let them go for $1000. That is less than the cost of the crank new alone Here are some better pictures of the work done to the oil drain back holes in the valley area:

Stock:


My block:


Stock:


My block:

Sk8phreak88

Man I wish I could pick this up from ya! Free bump for nice block!

Jason Short

to the top!

Jason Short

I've been getting a few request for shipping quotes. Here are is what I am getting:

-North Carolina - $82
-Michigan - $75
-Texas - $87

I am willing to split the shipping costs with the buyer.

The block is still available at this time.