Dash pad and hatch shocks
Re: Dash pad and hatch shocks
I need to go cage before I swap from the 3 point belts. I do not like the rear seat delete for belts personally, and there is little added safety. I am likely going to get kicked out of the track for no cage anyhow, so sooner or later that bridge will need to be crossed.
Also......
MAKE A SIGNATURE.
Also......
MAKE A SIGNATURE.
Re: Dash pad and hatch shocks
Got the seats, and she can sure make 'em. Well stitched, padded, they really look good. It'll be a major improvement.
Am about done w/ the tear-out, and ran into a couple of issues. First, the driver seat--w/ the 6-way electronics--was a bit tough. You need to keep readjusting it back & forth, up & down to get to all the bolts & remove the frame. The bolts are all 13mm, and you gotta use a box wrench on the back 2 (no room for a socket). They also have a plastic trim piece in the way, and it won't come out until you have the frame removed from the seat. I ended up pulling the seat out, then running some wire to the connector so I could reposition it to remove the frame.
By far the biggest PITA is the T45s they use on 1 side of the seat frames and on the belts. The belts were way over-torqued, and they used plenty of thread lock. Some came out, some didn't. I need to tap 1 out w/ an Irwin, the jury is still out on the others. It doesn't help that they are at an odd angle, you can't really get any leverage. I'm gonna try again w/ my 1/2" air gun, and I've been soaking them w/ PB. On the seat frames, they ran them in w/ the material, making them even tougher to get out. I'll prob need to tap a few more before it's over, and will repl. them w/ 13mm.
But I kinda expected some annoyance, so it's par for the course. Looking at the new seats, it's worth it.
Am about done w/ the tear-out, and ran into a couple of issues. First, the driver seat--w/ the 6-way electronics--was a bit tough. You need to keep readjusting it back & forth, up & down to get to all the bolts & remove the frame. The bolts are all 13mm, and you gotta use a box wrench on the back 2 (no room for a socket). They also have a plastic trim piece in the way, and it won't come out until you have the frame removed from the seat. I ended up pulling the seat out, then running some wire to the connector so I could reposition it to remove the frame.
By far the biggest PITA is the T45s they use on 1 side of the seat frames and on the belts. The belts were way over-torqued, and they used plenty of thread lock. Some came out, some didn't. I need to tap 1 out w/ an Irwin, the jury is still out on the others. It doesn't help that they are at an odd angle, you can't really get any leverage. I'm gonna try again w/ my 1/2" air gun, and I've been soaking them w/ PB. On the seat frames, they ran them in w/ the material, making them even tougher to get out. I'll prob need to tap a few more before it's over, and will repl. them w/ 13mm.
But I kinda expected some annoyance, so it's par for the course. Looking at the new seats, it's worth it.
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