Hello all,

This is a two part question.

#1 - Where should I go locally to get my alternator tested? What should I be prepared to pay (if anything)?

#2 - I plan to add an o2 sensor so that I can see what my actual a/f mixture is. What exhaust shop would you recommend to install a bung in the collector?

Thanks all.

Grant

 

some canadian tires test your alternator for free. i know the whalley one does, but is it off the car? they have this testing bench for individual alternators.

 

No, it's in the car. Can they not test it in the car?

I think something is wrong with the voltage regulator. The Voltmeter reports the voltage moving between high and low during operation (starts out high, and as I drive around it heads south - particularily if I'm at a stop with the headlights on).

 

By a voltmeter
do the tests yourself you can usually pick up a voltmeter for like 10 bucks at crappy tire

Or like 93 said most crappy tires will check your charging system out for free however they will more then likely try to say there is a issue if there really isnt.

As for testing the alternator it can be done in the vehicle


As for the exaust i am sure there are many exhaust shops that will do it. Just ask around locally
Later
Mike

 

I had Mopac drill and weld in my wideband bung in the X-pipe, install the sensor, and route the wiring harness for 40 bucks. Works great. Shouldn't be any more difficult for an f-body once the car is on the hoist.

 

Hey Draco - for a wideband o2 sensor is the x-pipe fine to install the sensor? Do they not need to be as close as the headers as possible?

 

Shouldn't really matter as long as the bung is before the Cat(s).

ALso, try to get the bung welded between 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions on the pipe to prevent condensation from affecting the sensor.

 

If your regulator's shot basically you'll be putting out around 18V at about 1200 rpm. I had one go on me, it was scary; I thought it was gonna fry the ECU so I had to drive home with all the accessories on to try and drain some power :P. The regulator cuts down power output from the alternator - regulates it to ~14.5 volts.

If voltage is dropping as the car revs sounds like you need a new alternator; the internals are probably worn out (coil/brushes). Voltage drain rises linearly as revs increase because the # of sparks it has to fire increase, but of course the alternator should be able to deal with that.

CT will test the alternator out-of-car, but it's gay because they don't test your regulator. They just test it for output, no more than you're already seeing with the voltmeter.

 

My alternator actually goes down as the revs drop. What does that mean?

So when I start the voltage goes all the way up (still below the red on my voltmeter ~16.5). Then it eventually levels of at the center. Near the end of my commute if I am at a light the voltage will start to drop - I can also see the voltage drop as the wipers run.

I should probably just get a new alternator then. Any suggestions as to what to look at? I am running a stereo / amp / electric fans / fuel injection.

Thanks,
Grant

 

Hey Grant, if you want to get it tested/rebuilt, take it to Poco Auto Electric. I don't think yours will be very expensive since it's probably not the computer controlled one.

I'd guess less than $100 to be rebuilt with new internals.

Or you could do it yourself with a rebuilt kit from Lordco or Crappy Tire. I think you need some specialized tools to get it apart though.

 

Thanks Alex, I'll give them a shot.

 

Sorry, never saw this until now... of course output drops as revs drop, the alternator is engine-driven If you see the voltage go under roughly 12.5v then you've got problems, otherwise don't worry about it

If you're desperate for more juice you can get the alternator rewound with more coils to up the voltage output. I was going to have this done but Honda alts are packed too tightly already, I'd have to go with a larger casing and that would hit my shock tower