BTW in reference to Black Robes theory, its perfect except one thing, spark plugs do heat up by themselves resistance to the high voltage will cause the spark plug to heat up if its firing outside the engine as a light bulb heats up or your stove or a wire which is too thin for the application hehe.

 

plugs do get warm when they fire, but fire a plug in air for an hour and you can still hold it in your hand. Plugs work by heating a VERY small patch of atmosphere to a very high temperature, enough to flash a few molecules of the gasoline/oxygen mixture, which will then cause a wave-like chain reaction, heating the next nearest molecules by convection, conduction and radiated heat. Smooth burning requires this even build up of heat in the CC. I state again, the spark plugs do not heat up beyond the temperature of warm water if they don't have any fuel to ignite. If they did heat up from electrical energy, they would have to act like arc-welders, consuming their own electrodes in only a few seconds!

 

Ohh yeah I know, except for the sufisticated terms you put together, I was just buggin you cuz you stated they don't heat up, & I felt like correcting that statement hope it was somewhat amusing.

 

Riight, were all with you man but you really need to check your PM's or at least go on icq!

 

I use tr55 at 0.055 gap, which is slightly less than they come from the manufacturer (0.06).

Rule of thumb is to drop the gap 0.001 for each 50 hp over stock for good performance. If you go N2O or FI, then a colder plug is optimal, dropping one step to a TR6 (TR6's are stock at 0.039, not .055 as the TR55s).

 

Chris is right, with a typical stock system, less gap with more cylinder pressure is required to ensure no mis-fires. Another option is to beef up the whole ignition system so that it can handle the extra load of high pressure. The reason for this is the insulating value of the N2 (Nitrogen) gas that makes up 7/8 of the air in the cylinder. When more air (insulation) is squeezed between the electrodes in the plug, the more pressure (voltage) required to get the spark to jump across the gap. If the gap is less, the system will be able to carry on firing, even with high combustion chamber pressures. There is a price to pay if you close the gap though... less tolerance for lean mixtures or poor fuel/air distribution. Ideally, an engine will run best with the biggest plug gap the ignition system can tolerate, which translates into big bucks for an aftermarket amplifier and fat wires to keep the increased maximum voltage from leaking out before it can fire the plugs.

Can you tell I love ignition techie stuff?

 

hehe I know I'm all into ignition aswell, hence the distributerless on my LT1

 

You spilled the beans ....I'll pick up the coils in the morning, come see me at the Avalon

 

nice No Armen spilt the beans sorry, I wanted to keep it a secret but Armen had to spill everything to Payam, he didn't mean to, Payam luered it out of him, remember, he steals everything .

 

That among other things I heard

 

so whats this blower thing, are you getting a blower now? better not be getting one, maybe later on down the road

 

Ps. I'll be at the Avalon after school