armin did you also make a appt for the 20th for post turbo dyno time?

 

Hi Roy

When I was reading some of the stuff on the STS site they said that the turbo will loosen up a bit after a couple of weeks. Do you think this is an issue? If not I can talk to Shane and set something up. Also I was cheking all the stuff the other day and I noticed there is a hole (3/4") in the pipe just in front of where you mount the MAF. ???. Also the blow off Valve has no instructions with it. I'm wondering where the 3/8 hose connects to.

Armin

 

ill email em now and get your answers soon

noone said anything to me about the turbo loosening up, thats news to me, and the hole up front is prolly for the BOV, but i havent seen it yet so i cant say for sure, will let you know tommorow for sure.


how longs the hose? could it be for the oiling system??

 

well they got back to me tonight



The turbo bearings are fairly tight when the turbo is new so as the bearings get worn in, the turbo will spool up quicker. So during the first week of driving the car, the turbo "loosens up" a little and you usually notice that it spools up quicker after its been driven for a while. (It doesn't loosen up and fall off. LOL) The hole in pipe 5 is for the BOV. It is pretty self explanitory. There is an Oring that fits on the flange and the clamp goes around the flange and holds the BOV to the flange. Look in the other end of the box. If you don't open the right end of the box, the instructions may be under the foam on the other side. There is a T fitting that goes inline in the brake booster hose. A 1/4" hose then runs from that T fitting down to the BOV fitting. Try and make it as short as possible. What elevation are you at? The BOV should have a 11 psi spring for any elevation under about 3000 feet. If you are over that, a 9 psi spring is better. These spring pressures don't regulate the boost so don't worry about the psi rating vs boost.

Make sure that the exhaust pipe is cut clean and then deburred so nothing comes off and goes through the turbo. Also, make sure that when they weld up the pipe that they don't burn through or get any little "berries" in the pipe that may dislodge and hit the impeller. You can call us if you have any questions or concerns. Make sure that you read the instruction manual thoroughly and follow it exactly. Make notes of anything that you don't understand or that doesn't flow well so we can make adjustments to the manuals and improve them. Make sure you do the car preps like tune, fuel filter, and gapping plugs, etc before as well as break in the oil pump. Watch connections on the pump and do the electrical system checks at the end. Double check your work and make sure that you do it right the first time. Most problems with installs have been because people haven't followed instructions. Good luck and call if you need assistance or have questions.

Make sure that you TUNE THE CAR! The LS1's have seriously weak fuel systems and aggressive timing maps. They will usually pull knock retard without custom tuning. Monitor your AFR's and KR's. If the computer is pulling any KR, the car is knocking and will damage the pistons. The LT1's and most of our other kits run pretty good right out of the box without much tuning. The LS1's however, need to be tuned. Most guys are running 42# injectors.
HPTuner makes a real good tuning system let me know if you need one or have questions about tuning. I can also get you a Predator and can help you with the tuning via email on that one. That will probably be your cheapest alternative. It is only $150 if you send the programmer back to us after you are done tuning.

Later Roy, Rick @ STS

 

I'm there, who else is going to show up. Thanks for the addy Armin. Weather is lookin so good starting the middle of the week.