ok whatever camashaft stuff
ok whatever camashaft stuff
now, I am thinking about building a "quick" car.So of course i am starting with the Intake Manifold,Carb and Camshaft.
All I know abut my Engine, is that it is a 350 Ci small block that was fuel injected but got switched to carbureatourion 4barrel.
So I am thinking a 650 cfm holley 4 Barrel carb,a cast iron Z28 high rise Intake Manifold and a Cam of some sort
P.S I can not get the engine numbers they are rusted off completely (not visible even with scrubbing).
All I know abut my Engine, is that it is a 350 Ci small block that was fuel injected but got switched to carbureatourion 4barrel.
So I am thinking a 650 cfm holley 4 Barrel carb,a cast iron Z28 high rise Intake Manifold and a Cam of some sort
P.S I can not get the engine numbers they are rusted off completely (not visible even with scrubbing).
With summer on a quick approach you've come out of hibernation?
1st of all, your 81 was fuel injected??
and you switched to a carb??
I say go with a small cam, the smaller the cam the quicker the durration and smaller the lift which will give you lots of back preasure and you'll be running hard and fast. You'll be the quickest guy around the salmon arm area.
Good luck.
1st of all, your 81 was fuel injected??
and you switched to a carb??
I say go with a small cam, the smaller the cam the quicker the durration and smaller the lift which will give you lots of back preasure and you'll be running hard and fast. You'll be the quickest guy around the salmon arm area.
Good luck.
Your Camaro didn't come with fuel injection. It wasn't an option.
1981 Camaro
It came with good old fashioned carbureatourion 4barrel.
That's a nice Jeeooorrb.
1981 Camaro
It came with good old fashioned carbureatourion 4barrel.
That's a nice Jeeooorrb.
Last edited by Pandamonkey; Feb 13, 2003 at 10:52 AM.
take these specs to a shop and ask for a custom cam ..
u want a 360 / 360 dur cam with 900 / 900 lift and 102 lsa
this is a very tricky cam .. and noones thought of it yet .. thats why noone makes it .. cuz noones thought of it .. but trust me .. with this special design cam u'll valves never close so u keep flowing air inside !! imagine how much air u get in ur carbeauration ... its like having a supercahrger in a cam
im gonna copyright this cam ... and sell it when i have the money to make it ... but man .. think about having a supercharger AND a cam just in a cam
u want a 360 / 360 dur cam with 900 / 900 lift and 102 lsa
this is a very tricky cam .. and noones thought of it yet .. thats why noone makes it .. cuz noones thought of it .. but trust me .. with this special design cam u'll valves never close so u keep flowing air inside !! imagine how much air u get in ur carbeauration ... its like having a supercahrger in a cam

im gonna copyright this cam ... and sell it when i have the money to make it ... but man .. think about having a supercharger AND a cam just in a cam
Originally posted by sideways_Into_3rd
u want a 360 / 360 dur cam with 900 / 900 lift and 102 lsa
this is a very tricky cam .. and noones thought of it yet .. thats why noone makes it .. cuz noones thought of it .. but trust me .. with this special design cam u'll valves never close so u keep flowing air inside !! imagine how much air u get in ur carbeauration ... its like having a supercahrger in a cam
u want a 360 / 360 dur cam with 900 / 900 lift and 102 lsa
this is a very tricky cam .. and noones thought of it yet .. thats why noone makes it .. cuz noones thought of it .. but trust me .. with this special design cam u'll valves never close so u keep flowing air inside !! imagine how much air u get in ur carbeauration ... its like having a supercahrger in a cam

Get a decent air intake and header-back exhaust first. Worry about HIC if you have money left over.
BTW - If your engine cannot be deciphered by it's casting numbers due to rust, you may want to make sure the rest of it is intact in terms of rust damage, wear and tear, maintenance, etc. IMO it's not worth the time and money building up a motor on it's way out.
Good luck.
PS - I thought it doesn't stop snowing in Salmon Arm until July?
BTW - If your engine cannot be deciphered by it's casting numbers due to rust, you may want to make sure the rest of it is intact in terms of rust damage, wear and tear, maintenance, etc. IMO it's not worth the time and money building up a motor on it's way out.
Good luck.
PS - I thought it doesn't stop snowing in Salmon Arm until July?
You guys need to chill a lil bit, He was asking a simple question and was polite about it.
I would do some easy mods first before cracking into the engine. Sounds like it has led a hard life. If you want a new intake, why not look for a nice used alum one that will save you some weight as well, then do lil things like exhaust and free up some of your backpressure etc.
Hell we all have made comments that could be bashed hard. YOU FOR ONE PAYAM are not one to talk... Mr. Lets test piston to valve clearance with dropping the valve till it hits the piston then decide on how much cam to put in her
just for fun guys remember give a guy a break when he is just learning some stuff.
Steven
I would do some easy mods first before cracking into the engine. Sounds like it has led a hard life. If you want a new intake, why not look for a nice used alum one that will save you some weight as well, then do lil things like exhaust and free up some of your backpressure etc.
Hell we all have made comments that could be bashed hard. YOU FOR ONE PAYAM are not one to talk... Mr. Lets test piston to valve clearance with dropping the valve till it hits the piston then decide on how much cam to put in her
just for fun guys remember give a guy a break when he is just learning some stuff.Steven
Get a cheap intake off of e-bay, I agree with steven that you need to free up the exhuast then do the cam. Put some duals on her with some good headers(dynomax are cheap). Then get yourself a Comp Cams 268XE grind cam. Any parts store will know what your talking about when you ask for that. It should give you nice acceleration and a nice rumble.
Originally posted by sideways_Into_3rd
take these specs to a shop and ask for a custom cam ..
u want a 360 / 360 dur cam with 900 / 900 lift and 102 lsa
this is a very tricky cam .. and noones thought of it yet .. thats why noone makes it .. cuz noones thought of it .. but trust me .. with this special design cam u'll valves never close so u keep flowing air inside !! imagine how much air u get in ur carbeauration ... its like having a supercahrger in a cam
im gonna copyright this cam ... and sell it when i have the money to make it ... but man .. think about having a supercharger AND a cam just in a cam
take these specs to a shop and ask for a custom cam ..
u want a 360 / 360 dur cam with 900 / 900 lift and 102 lsa
this is a very tricky cam .. and noones thought of it yet .. thats why noone makes it .. cuz noones thought of it .. but trust me .. with this special design cam u'll valves never close so u keep flowing air inside !! imagine how much air u get in ur carbeauration ... its like having a supercahrger in a cam

im gonna copyright this cam ... and sell it when i have the money to make it ... but man .. think about having a supercharger AND a cam just in a cam
time for some scarry!!!..............ready?! this is a real big block chevy roller cam from crane pt. # 19335!!........... Competition only, w/large multi-stage nitrous system, 700+ cu.in., Pro Mod, etc., stick only, 13.5 minimum compression ratio advised. Basic RPM 5000-8200 .850/.800 119*LCA at .050 286/320 deg. advertised, get this!! 324/360 deg.
bet ya didnt expect that one! lol
HAHAHA thats funny, thats a neat idea of the piston to valve clearance payam, would have to take a few things into account but its not such a bad idea
hehe, measure how much valve stick outs when valve is down, subtract the max from the minimum clearance, & than measure the compression of your cam when valve is fully open, subtract from that & see how much more you can add. Unfortunetly its a cool idea except it'd only work on Solid roller, you have to take lifter compression/heat into account & stuff too
with solid only heat into account
hehe, measure how much valve stick outs when valve is down, subtract the max from the minimum clearance, & than measure the compression of your cam when valve is fully open, subtract from that & see how much more you can add. Unfortunetly its a cool idea except it'd only work on Solid roller, you have to take lifter compression/heat into account & stuff too
with solid only heat into account
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