Mission tomorow?
Originally posted by Tw!tchb!tch
Did you run the vette yet Craig ? What cam did you stuff in there
Did you run the vette yet Craig ? What cam did you stuff in there
I'll be interested if the weather holds out like this.
My TB still hasn't come in yet, so I won't be running, only watching.
the jets I had in were so small I couldnt feel the shot lol. Then Matt helped me out and we ramped up to a 125 shot.... 2nd gear is now useless and I see a new clutch in my future.
The wideband KICKS ***. reads a spot-on 14.7 under cruise, and shows the A/f at 12.5 or so at WOT N/A, and about 11.3-11.7 when the nitrous kicks in. no knock retard on EFI live so I think the nitrous setup is safe as it is.
Can't wait to dyno on saturday.
Guys I highly recommend the Wideband Commander - $400 USD for the kit, comes with am autometer gauge, sensor, all cabling and software to log with laptop. You can also do onboard logging for 15 minutes (download the results to laptop later), and use the commander to control relays and warning lights (i.e. if you want to have nitrous activated only if the Air Fuel ratio is safe). You could also use the controller as a combined Air fuel, Window, and electronic TPS switch. Eventually I hope to use just the wideband controller instead of all the other safety gear I have hooked up.
Will get a chance to compare it with the wideband at the dyno on saturday to see how accurate it really is.
Twitch, I haven't run the vette at the track yet - will get kicked for no rollbar since its a ragtop.
The wideband KICKS ***. reads a spot-on 14.7 under cruise, and shows the A/f at 12.5 or so at WOT N/A, and about 11.3-11.7 when the nitrous kicks in. no knock retard on EFI live so I think the nitrous setup is safe as it is.
Can't wait to dyno on saturday.
Guys I highly recommend the Wideband Commander - $400 USD for the kit, comes with am autometer gauge, sensor, all cabling and software to log with laptop. You can also do onboard logging for 15 minutes (download the results to laptop later), and use the commander to control relays and warning lights (i.e. if you want to have nitrous activated only if the Air Fuel ratio is safe). You could also use the controller as a combined Air fuel, Window, and electronic TPS switch. Eventually I hope to use just the wideband controller instead of all the other safety gear I have hooked up.
Will get a chance to compare it with the wideband at the dyno on saturday to see how accurate it really is.
Twitch, I haven't run the vette at the track yet - will get kicked for no rollbar since its a ragtop.
That wide band sounds like the ticket for sure . Im scared to spray the full shot this year with my stock fuel system . I may give a 100 shot a go at low bottle pressure ( 600 - 700 ) and see if i can control the hit. ill tap it and see how it looks but Im not so sure the EFILive gives a very good readout through the stock O2's . I spiked so lean on the dyno last year it went almost 15.0:1 . Yikes !!
Are you running a wet shot ?
Are you running a wet shot ?
forget the stock O2s.... They do not change much when I hit the juice but the wideband reports a nice rich mixture as expected.
your stock fuel system should support a 100 shot on top of cam and headers.... I only plan on going up to 6k rpm. get a FP gauge and/or wideband and that will help tell the tale. the cool thing about using the wideband is you can do the following:
1. Rig a warning light to come on if the AFR goes above a set point (say 12.5). Shut down immediately when this light shines on.
2. Use the wideband to activate the nitrous solenoid relay ONLY when the AFR is below a set point.
This will prevent you from leaning out on the spray.
If you have a heater you'd be better off at a 75 shot with full pressure. You dont want your bottle to heat up in the hot summer and accidentally spray a full pressure 100 shot if you dont think your setup can handle it.,...
yes, it is a wet shot. I wouldnt run more then a 75 shot dry thru the MAF on a LS1 personally
your stock fuel system should support a 100 shot on top of cam and headers.... I only plan on going up to 6k rpm. get a FP gauge and/or wideband and that will help tell the tale. the cool thing about using the wideband is you can do the following:
1. Rig a warning light to come on if the AFR goes above a set point (say 12.5). Shut down immediately when this light shines on.
2. Use the wideband to activate the nitrous solenoid relay ONLY when the AFR is below a set point.
This will prevent you from leaning out on the spray.
If you have a heater you'd be better off at a 75 shot with full pressure. You dont want your bottle to heat up in the hot summer and accidentally spray a full pressure 100 shot if you dont think your setup can handle it.,...
yes, it is a wet shot. I wouldnt run more then a 75 shot dry thru the MAF on a LS1 personally
yes, it is a wet shot. I wouldnt run more then a 75 shot dry thru the MAF on a LS1 personally
Last year I left my heater on ( no therm ) and spayed a 125 shot on over 1500 psi
damn I can see why you leaned out lol. your nitrous flow was probably way too high for the fuel jet (or are you running a dry shot?).
seriously tho, a 75 shot at full pressure will be close in terms of power to a 100 shot at lower pressure - and you wont need to worry about the bottle pressure inconsistencies when you use the heater. The full pressure 75 shot will be way more consistent.
remember you can control the max/operating pressure of the bottle, but not the minimum.
seriously tho, a 75 shot at full pressure will be close in terms of power to a 100 shot at lower pressure - and you wont need to worry about the bottle pressure inconsistencies when you use the heater. The full pressure 75 shot will be way more consistent.
remember you can control the max/operating pressure of the bottle, but not the minimum.
damn I can see why you leaned out lol. your nitrous flow was probably way too high for the fuel jet (or are you running a dry shot?).
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