i have the eibach prokit springs, new shocks on the way, and will get the LCA relocation brakcets, should i get an adjustable panhard rod?

i want to know soon, as there is only a 2.5 week window of opportunity before school starts again, after this semester's exams are done... so i'd need to find one soon

thanks
ian

edit: new shocks on the way, not new springs, springs are second hand, just for anyone wanting to know

 

im pretty sure its recommended w/ lowered cars

 

u dotn really NEED any of those things .. u dont need relocation brackets on a V6 .. not like u have traction problems or anthing

but if u got extra money lyin around .. sure get those things ...

where did u get ur prokits from and how much ?

 

Payam is right - no need for relocation brackets unless you get wheel hop under acceleration.

You might still want the panhard rod to center the rear end after lowering.

I have one for sale if interested - let me know.

 

draco, yes, interested, pm me with details please....

payam, i got them off a board member from camarov6, used less than $5k miles for $140 US shipped... i liked that deal, so went for it

we'll see if i get any wheel hop, if so, its no biggie to just weld those buggers in, right

 

The panhard rod is a 20 minute install so I'd leave it for now, lower the car and see if you need one - generally you must get one if your running wide 315 tires.

But if the car looks centered and and your not running wide tires then don't bother getting the APHR.

my $0.02

 

Read this and decide for yourself.
http://www.rpmnet.com/techart/panhard.shtml
keep in mind that is mostly oval track info but it is still accurate and worth reading.
I assume adjustable means the bracket has 3 or 4 holes to change the height/level of the bar right? The bar itself must be strong enough as well, I do not remember what the stock 4th gen bar looks like but if its weak/small its worth replacing anyhow.

 

the stock panhard bar is a POS. it is a u-shaped piece and bends under compression (right hand turns) - nowhere near as resistant as a tubular rod. This means that even if your rear end is centered when the car is still, that ain't the case when cornering which leads to unpredictable handling since the car reacts differently dependin on which way it turns.

With an adjustable, you simply turn the adjustable end on its threads to lengthen or shorten the rod. On our cars I do not believe we can change the mounting height or position of the panhard rod - just the length of the rod itself.

Cory, were you talking about the LCA brackets or the panhard rod?

 

I got wheelhop after my drop.

as far as Adj PHR, go for it.

 

Panhard rod. Ya, if the stock piece is just stamped steel it is a good idea to replace it for corners. That goes for your stamped control arms as well. Anything stamped needs boxing/replacing IMO.
Changing the length of the rod by an inch+/- isnt going to affect the cornering... all it will allow you to do is centre the axle. Does the lowering kit end up with the axle not centered?
Changing the panhard bars height and angle affect the roll centre which is sorta the whole point or panhard adjustments. Most racers will have panhard bar brackets with multiple holes in it so they can adjust for different tracks/setups. I thought the aftermarket kit would have those. Also remember your bar is only as strong as the brackets. If they are flimsy, box them in or cut them out and build some better ones. Ive driven a 3rd gen with almost all stock parts, but they were all boxed/stiffened. What a difference! Thing was way more predictable and faster to drive because you knew what it was going to do. Thats the goal in car building right?
Cheers.