K-member install...
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,419
From: Coquitlam, British Columbia
Originally posted by supermo26
How are you going to secure the hard brake lines on the K member? I installed the K member while the motor was out and it was cake. I still haven't decided on the way I will secure my brake lines. I was thinking of cutting the bracket and maybe drilling a new hole if needed.
Im also curious if I installed the lower a arms correct. Hopefully the shop doing the alignment will kow what he is doing with this aftermarket set up.
How are you going to secure the hard brake lines on the K member? I installed the K member while the motor was out and it was cake. I still haven't decided on the way I will secure my brake lines. I was thinking of cutting the bracket and maybe drilling a new hole if needed.
Im also curious if I installed the lower a arms correct. Hopefully the shop doing the alignment will kow what he is doing with this aftermarket set up.
From what I hear, "zip ties"....or custom brackets..at this rate zip ties are cheaper
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,419
From: Coquitlam, British Columbia
Here's a cut-n-paste of an e-mail I sent out to the local f-body list after my k-member was installed. Looking back, it wasn't nearly as painful as this email made it out to be, but it does represent fairly well how I felt immediately after finishing... We were also installing lowering springs at the same time, so some of the things I did, you obviously won't have to do...
Here is my advice regarding how to install a k-member. It starts with "Go
look up the local install shop in the phone book..." You can guess where it goes
from there.
The whole day was summed up by a caption under a picture in the Haynes
manual regarding removing the engine mounts:
"Engine removed for clarity." If you ever see this in an instruction set -
RUN.
First off, "mad props" go out to the entire pit crew: Andy, Pat, Ruben,
Ryan, Troy, Turtle, and Wes. No way I could have done this without all of
their help. :two thumbs up: You guys f'in rock.
Started at 10am...finished at about 9:30pm...yep, 11+ hours.
Step one: place car on jackstands and remove all 4 wheels.
Step two: remove & replace rear springs, panhard bar, lower control arms,
and install LCA relocation brackets. Don't forget to cut off the mounting
bracket for the brake line. Also, don't put the rear bolt in the front of
the LCA - the front bolt is waaay too short to work in back.
Step 3: remove front spring/coil assembly. No simple task. Leverage and
pickle forks are involved.
Step 4: Support engine/tranny on floor jack with wooden block.
Step 5: Unbolt lower a-arms and steering assembly. Unbolt sway bar & fight
to get long a-arm bolts out around steering dust boots. Fight, scream, and
curse to get steering assembly out of k-member mounting slot. Support
a-arm/spindle/rotor assembly with zipties & prayers.
6: Unbolt k-member from body.
7: Unbolt passenger side engine mount. Attempt to remove Alternator to get
long bolt out. Remove belts to get Alternator loose. Remove long bolt.
8: Unbolt driver side engine mount. Realize that AC compressor is in the
way of removing the long bolt. Disconnect battery after volunteer shocks
self on starter.
9: Remove starter. Decide to unbolt the engine mount from the k-member.
See directions in Haynes manual - note picture that has *engine removed for
clarity* caption.
10: Unbolt engine mount from k-member. Hear everyone present cheer with
glee as it breaks free.
11. Unbolt engine mount from mounting on block. Drop down enough to pull
out long bolt around compressor. Reattach block mount.
12. Bolt up BMR k-member to body. "Encourage" power steering assembly to
fit & bolt in slot.
13. "Persuade" a-arms to fit in new k-member. Don't forget to cut off 'lip'
on the bolts, as the aftermarket k-member doesn't have a slot for it. It's
generally much easier to get the bolt all the way in once this is out of the
way.
14. Reinstall motor mount bolt on passenger side - put bolt in from rear
for easy access. Bolt alternator back on.
15. Reinstall motor mount bolt on driver side - attempt to put bolt in from
rear, as AC compressor is (surprisingly) still in the way. Realize that the
dipstick tube is in the way. Remove dipstick and bolt up.
16. Reinstall dipstick & starter.
17. Tighten all bolts. Don't forget the motor mount bolts. Or the
steering assembly nuts. Or the third alternator bolt.
18. Install front spring assemblies with new springs already on. Thanks to
team "B" working on this during some of the earlier steps...
19. Zip tie brake lines & power steering lines to new k-member.
20. Mount wheels, remove engine support, and lower car.
21. Don't forget to put the serpentine belt back on - and don't forget to
reconnect the battery.
Steps 5-11 took at least 6 hours, and 12-17 probably 3 or 4 hours...
There was a lot more, including pizza delivery, beer retrieval, consumption
& spillage; broken shop light bulbs, music fights involving country, techno,
and 80's flashback; Michael Jackson cell phones, and a ton of other crap
that I just can't remember right now. 11 hours is just too long to work on
a car. Now I know why you can't find directions on how to do this - if
people could read it first, no one would every buy one!
Good luck,
Shane
Here is my advice regarding how to install a k-member. It starts with "Go
look up the local install shop in the phone book..." You can guess where it goes
from there.
The whole day was summed up by a caption under a picture in the Haynes
manual regarding removing the engine mounts:
"Engine removed for clarity." If you ever see this in an instruction set -
RUN.
First off, "mad props" go out to the entire pit crew: Andy, Pat, Ruben,
Ryan, Troy, Turtle, and Wes. No way I could have done this without all of
their help. :two thumbs up: You guys f'in rock.
Started at 10am...finished at about 9:30pm...yep, 11+ hours.
Step one: place car on jackstands and remove all 4 wheels.
Step two: remove & replace rear springs, panhard bar, lower control arms,
and install LCA relocation brackets. Don't forget to cut off the mounting
bracket for the brake line. Also, don't put the rear bolt in the front of
the LCA - the front bolt is waaay too short to work in back.
Step 3: remove front spring/coil assembly. No simple task. Leverage and
pickle forks are involved.
Step 4: Support engine/tranny on floor jack with wooden block.
Step 5: Unbolt lower a-arms and steering assembly. Unbolt sway bar & fight
to get long a-arm bolts out around steering dust boots. Fight, scream, and
curse to get steering assembly out of k-member mounting slot. Support
a-arm/spindle/rotor assembly with zipties & prayers.
6: Unbolt k-member from body.
7: Unbolt passenger side engine mount. Attempt to remove Alternator to get
long bolt out. Remove belts to get Alternator loose. Remove long bolt.
8: Unbolt driver side engine mount. Realize that AC compressor is in the
way of removing the long bolt. Disconnect battery after volunteer shocks
self on starter.
9: Remove starter. Decide to unbolt the engine mount from the k-member.
See directions in Haynes manual - note picture that has *engine removed for
clarity* caption.
10: Unbolt engine mount from k-member. Hear everyone present cheer with
glee as it breaks free.
11. Unbolt engine mount from mounting on block. Drop down enough to pull
out long bolt around compressor. Reattach block mount.
12. Bolt up BMR k-member to body. "Encourage" power steering assembly to
fit & bolt in slot.
13. "Persuade" a-arms to fit in new k-member. Don't forget to cut off 'lip'
on the bolts, as the aftermarket k-member doesn't have a slot for it. It's
generally much easier to get the bolt all the way in once this is out of the
way.
14. Reinstall motor mount bolt on passenger side - put bolt in from rear
for easy access. Bolt alternator back on.
15. Reinstall motor mount bolt on driver side - attempt to put bolt in from
rear, as AC compressor is (surprisingly) still in the way. Realize that the
dipstick tube is in the way. Remove dipstick and bolt up.
16. Reinstall dipstick & starter.
17. Tighten all bolts. Don't forget the motor mount bolts. Or the
steering assembly nuts. Or the third alternator bolt.
18. Install front spring assemblies with new springs already on. Thanks to
team "B" working on this during some of the earlier steps...
19. Zip tie brake lines & power steering lines to new k-member.
20. Mount wheels, remove engine support, and lower car.
21. Don't forget to put the serpentine belt back on - and don't forget to
reconnect the battery.
Steps 5-11 took at least 6 hours, and 12-17 probably 3 or 4 hours...
There was a lot more, including pizza delivery, beer retrieval, consumption
& spillage; broken shop light bulbs, music fights involving country, techno,
and 80's flashback; Michael Jackson cell phones, and a ton of other crap
that I just can't remember right now. 11 hours is just too long to work on
a car. Now I know why you can't find directions on how to do this - if
people could read it first, no one would every buy one!
Good luck,
Shane
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,305
From: North Vancouver, BC
WTF? You told me you didn't have the K-member yet, I said I was gonna install it for ya, now I feel bad 
you said you were only getting A-arms for now & K=memeber later, wtf next time call me before anything.
you said you were only getting A-arms for now & K=memeber later, wtf next time call me before anything.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,419
From: Coquitlam, British Columbia
Originally posted by bunker
WTF? You told me you didn't have the K-member yet, I said I was gonna install it for ya, now I feel bad you said you were only getting A-arms for now & K=memeber later, wtf next time call me before anything.
WTF? You told me you didn't have the K-member yet, I said I was gonna install it for ya, now I feel bad
you said you were only getting A-arms for now & K=memeber later, wtf next time call me before anything.
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