Cars full second slower . . .need help
Some progress . . .
-Ltrims are down closer to 0.0 and much tighter together.
-light blue ( bank 2 ) o2 STFT's are way messed still. Im still gettng the knock sensor codes and both left and right bank "02 sensors not switching" codes.
-At WOT Im getting 9.5 - 10.5 degrees of timing .
Next Im going to run my EWP through a reley off the battery instead of straight off the ignition wire and see if that cleens anything up and switch the o2's side to side.
I have a new huge atap that really shows how ****ed the 02's are reading . . . .any takers ??
-Ltrims are down closer to 0.0 and much tighter together.
-light blue ( bank 2 ) o2 STFT's are way messed still. Im still gettng the knock sensor codes and both left and right bank "02 sensors not switching" codes.
-At WOT Im getting 9.5 - 10.5 degrees of timing .
Next Im going to run my EWP through a reley off the battery instead of straight off the ignition wire and see if that cleens anything up and switch the o2's side to side.
I have a new huge atap that really shows how ****ed the 02's are reading . . . .any takers ??
Originally posted by Tw!tchb!tch
My passenger side header is 1/8 inch away from the k member but desnt look marked up like its been making contact. Ive had my eye on it since it was instaled but figured the motor would torque it towards the pass side right ??
My passenger side header is 1/8 inch away from the k member but desnt look marked up like its been making contact. Ive had my eye on it since it was instaled but figured the motor would torque it towards the pass side right ??
Originally posted by Camaro ChriSS
Btw, I had to grind part of my K on the drivers side cuz it rubbed. You can't miss it if it is doing it.
Btw, I had to grind part of my K on the drivers side cuz it rubbed. You can't miss it if it is doing it.
Kewl you just saved me some time grinding . Im definatly not smacking it if its something you can hear / feel inside the car. I just had another look at it and here isnt anr rub marks or fine scratches that would indicate contact. . . .
I just swapped the o2's from bank to bank and Ill se what that does.
ChriSS , sending now thanks man !!
I just swapped the o2's from bank to bank and Ill se what that does.
ChriSS , sending now thanks man !!
Couple pics of my messed up o2's
http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a74501/techa.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a74501/techb.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a74501/techc.jpg
And my messed up timing
http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a74501/wot.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a74501/wotb.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a74501/techa.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a74501/techb.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a74501/techc.jpg
And my messed up timing
http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a74501/wot.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a74501/wotb.jpg
those o2 shots are fine cuz at cruise or idle TPS you expect them to fluctuate from 100 to 900 like that. They wont read the same either. You can only compare O2s at WOT and see if they are close together, and even that is pushing it given their inaccuracy.
You should fix your timing issues first then worry about your air fuel. Your timing at WOT is probably ****ing up your AFR as read by the O2s anyway.
remember, your knock sensor codes are what is killing your timing by dropping you down to the low octane timing table. Fix your knock sensors and go from there.
You should fix your timing issues first then worry about your air fuel. Your timing at WOT is probably ****ing up your AFR as read by the O2s anyway.
remember, your knock sensor codes are what is killing your timing by dropping you down to the low octane timing table. Fix your knock sensors and go from there.
Hey Craig,
Im working the knock sensor thing I just want to make sure Im getting 100% of the picture . . . I found this when looking into the knock sensor codes . .
I seem to remember Bunker mentioning the low maf readings when he looked at my taps . . . . kinda raised my interest a bit so i did some more digging and found alot more info on the pcm . . . .its easier to check so Ill poke around.
Ill proably end up ordering a new sensor from gm . . .. maybe I should try for warranty
Im working the knock sensor thing I just want to make sure Im getting 100% of the picture . . . I found this when looking into the knock sensor codes . .
In my case, the pcm was the cause of the codes, and when I logged runs, I had very low maf air flow readings which weren't making sense. Since replacing the pcm, the codes disappeared, and maf air flow is reporting normal. Also, I had a burnt pin #51 that actually fell off when I touched it.
Ill proably end up ordering a new sensor from gm . . .. maybe I should try for warranty
Thats a thought , just how low is it reading compared to normal ?? . . . . . . I checked the pcm and it all "looks" ok ( no burnt pins like noticed by others )
Thanks Chriss I may have to take you up on that. . . . what maf are you running now ??
If the maf itself was really screwie wouldnt I see a code ?
Thanks Chriss I may have to take you up on that. . . . what maf are you running now ??
If the maf itself was really screwie wouldnt I see a code ?
Last edited by Tw!tchb!tch; Jun 7, 2004 at 10:33 PM.
for a cam/headers car I'd expect to see 300 grams/sec at WOT at 6k+ rpm. Thats roughly what I get on my car.
BTW your O2 and MAF grams/sec readings look pretty good on the last 2 screenshots - maybe even a bit rich runnin .900+. Your light blue O2 is reading consistently higher then the other bank... swap em around and see if that changes (or did you swap already and notice a shift?).
Fix your knock sensors/timing and you should be good to go.
BTW your O2 and MAF grams/sec readings look pretty good on the last 2 screenshots - maybe even a bit rich runnin .900+. Your light blue O2 is reading consistently higher then the other bank... swap em around and see if that changes (or did you swap already and notice a shift?).
Fix your knock sensors/timing and you should be good to go.
Last edited by Draco; Jun 7, 2004 at 10:41 PM.
I hope so Craig . . . Im hoping the top end power shows up when this is all figured out. There is ZERO power above 5500 rpm right now which is no good or a 116lsa cam . I was told she'd yank you back till 6700 ( rev limiter permiting )
You edited your post
I just swapped the o2's today and havent had a chance to drop her down and check it out . . . they looked ok . . . like 02 sensors . . . . and they sound like 02 sensors when you shakem
You edited your post
I just swapped the o2's today and havent had a chance to drop her down and check it out . . . they looked ok . . . like 02 sensors . . . . and they sound like 02 sensors when you shakem
Last edited by Tw!tchb!tch; Jun 7, 2004 at 10:49 PM.
I have a Granatelli unit I use currently. I'll likely go back to my stock one in the future with a blower, but right now its just sitting in my cupboard.
I just read over your 1+ hour logs. I see nothing wrong with O2s. You're rich, but the exact same readings as me, and bang on for LTs in my opinion. High 11 AFR I think. Not a serious issue.
Your KR issue is interesting. I saw five WOT runs (did I miss some?), and in your first run you had 4 degrees for the short run you did - consistently. Then the next two runs there was no KR at all (well, maybe 0.6 for a split second, but thats ok). Then the last two runs, back to 4 degrees bang on and steady through the gear shift. That is weird enough to suggest a bad knock sensor, or damage to the harness. The fact that it comes and goes, and stays right on 4 degrees is very suspicious. So focus there.
Your timing was slightly better on the runs w/o KR. Actually, almost normal, starting at ~23 degrees (slightly low still), but oddly enough tapering off as the rpms climbed when no KR. I find that weird. Completely expected though is the sensors are pulling timing as the rpms climb.
I assume this is not the same tank of gas you've been using, correct? You've added 94 and made logs similar to this with a fresh take?
Can you with EFILive disable the Knock sensors when running? If the sensor is bad, you will get a beter reading this way. I know I can do it with edit, but not sure of EFI...
I just read over your 1+ hour logs. I see nothing wrong with O2s. You're rich, but the exact same readings as me, and bang on for LTs in my opinion. High 11 AFR I think. Not a serious issue.
Your KR issue is interesting. I saw five WOT runs (did I miss some?), and in your first run you had 4 degrees for the short run you did - consistently. Then the next two runs there was no KR at all (well, maybe 0.6 for a split second, but thats ok). Then the last two runs, back to 4 degrees bang on and steady through the gear shift. That is weird enough to suggest a bad knock sensor, or damage to the harness. The fact that it comes and goes, and stays right on 4 degrees is very suspicious. So focus there.
Your timing was slightly better on the runs w/o KR. Actually, almost normal, starting at ~23 degrees (slightly low still), but oddly enough tapering off as the rpms climbed when no KR. I find that weird. Completely expected though is the sensors are pulling timing as the rpms climb.
I assume this is not the same tank of gas you've been using, correct? You've added 94 and made logs similar to this with a fresh take?
Can you with EFILive disable the Knock sensors when running? If the sensor is bad, you will get a beter reading this way. I know I can do it with edit, but not sure of EFI...


