Here are some screen shots . . . maybe something will stick out .

This is an open throtle run . 1- 4 from after mission ( friday night )



Same run just highlighted a differen part of the timeline to show timing etc.



Heres a cruise shot from sat morning to show how difference between the ltft's from bank 1 and 2. Those little buggers are almost always different

 

What are you O2s in mV when at WOT? They should often differ between bank 1 and 2 by about 10 points, so that sounds normal. When not at WOT, you should see the O2s switch from high to low (~.1 mV then .83 mv, then .05, then .65, etc... some pattern like that where it is high-low-high).

Timing part throttle can range from 14-41, depending on the conditions. Its really the WOT we need. It has to be 24-28 or so, maybe a tad higher.

 

Awsome !! Ill email them now

Im not sure about the Mv at WOT . LTFT's went to 0.0 but does it even use those ??

 

I haven't used EFIlive before, so could you just explain what it is showing there? I think I know, but how do you read the axis?

Is the bottom rpm or time? And are these WOT bursts (and for how long)? Sorry, I'm just more familiar with ATAP!

 

On first inspection, I don't think those snap shots look bad, but I thinbk we need to see more. The O2s are switching, but the timing to low at WOT.

 

I forgot you had atap and sent you the efilive files last night

The axis , that line that goes verticaly through everything pinpoints ( freezes ) the readings and displays them in that point in time.

This run is zoomed out ( the first one ) and is gear 1 - 4 full throttle ( about 20 - 180 kmph ) to about 5700 rpm in each gear . It shows 4 degrees of knock across each gear . Because it was recorded in V5 and played back in V6 some info is missing but I was running on laptop battery and I couldnt get v6 configured that night.

The second ne is the same run just with the axis in a different place to show different readings.

The second box down on the left is the STFT's o2's .

 

Heres a link to the free download for anybody that wants a copy of my files.

http://efilive.com/downloads/index.html

Amit if you download this ( version 6 ) I can email you your own taps after we scan it and you can review them / save them .

 

coooooool

 

Your O2 readings are very very messed up, especially the light blue one. I dont care if people think the stock O2s aren't readable.... I think they are really trying to tell you something here.

You should see them pegged at around .900mV. Even the yellow O2 line is reading too low and the blue one starts out way too low and then jumps up later on.

I think your timing might have been dropped to the Low Octane table due to masive knock (maybe due to running way too lean as shown by the O2s?). You should log your knock count as well to see if the sensors are getting triggered like mad like I think they might be.

 

Craig , im thinking lean too. . . . theres no smell . . . no soot and plugs look a little red .

What do you think its trying to tell me ?? Any guesses ?? Thats bank II passenger side correct ??

 

do the O2 sensor switch first... its still possible you have a bad sensor and its the easiest thing. run your tank to near empty and put some fresh 94 octane in there and see if that helps. log your knock count to see if the sensors are picking up crazy knock

Let's do those easy thigns first then go from there.

 

Ok kewl ,

I just pulled the pass side valve cover , plugs etc and gave it a really really close look over . . . everything looks great . The headers look tight as hell . . . . I cant see any sign of air getting in pre 02.

My passenger side header is 1/8 inch away from the k member but desnt look marked up like its been making contact. Ive had my eye on it since it was instaled but figured the motor would torque it towards the pass side right ??


Ill throw it back together and switch the o2's from side to side next . Does anybody know a way to check these with a volt meter ??

I still thing those two po327 knock sensor circut low codes are saying my knock sensors have left the building. I know i was prying back there at that huge metal clamp. . . .Can I check the wire harness with a volt meter err something ?? I may have inadvertantly (sp) put enough pressure on this little harness to seperate the wires inside. Three things are pointing me there . . It was dark and i was grumpy when I encountered that bracket and I didnt see any wires behind it , the code indicated the knock sensor is MIA and by default I now have exactly 4 degrees of knock at all times wot which is default when they are disconected. I dont think the sensors themselves are bad . . .but i dont think ill be able to log knock with any acuracy until i can determine if the harness is ****ed.

little bastard knock harness pic

http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a74501/wire.jpg[/img]

 

ok here is the deal. Apparently if you have bad knock sensors (throwing codes), you will be running in the low octane timing table. This is what is killing your timing.

Fix those knock sensors and see what happens!

 

K I just got in there and removed the wire loom from the knock harness wires. There is a noticeable kink in them so it does look like I used em to pry agaised lol

Anyways I managed to get the blue cap off and stuff the wires back into the connector quite aways and ill see how that does. . . .

I also went over the intake tract via matts advice and tightened everything up after I reinstalled the stock maf ends. If anythings helping a lean condition its those I guess . . .

Off I go to tap it again

 

Off I go to tap it again


how is it now? any change?