he had problems with his fans not kicking in ... due to problematic wiring or tuning ...

he never had any problems before the FAST

 

Its time for an electric water pump, also the fans are probably on low speed.

 

Sorry Payam... I just got quoted $250 for a custom 3 core rad!

I though electric water pumps were ideal for racing only... not street cars? Are they reliable?

I already have a hgh flow Edelbrock pump but still curious about the electric ones...

 

personally, id use the electric ones for track only. id stick with your mech. water pump. theres more reliability for street driving, you can get more milege out of it before failure, and most importantly its not tapping off your electrical system. if you have an electrical problem then your car over heats and your motor blows
besides the electric will only save you like 2hp wow i say keep what ya got and spend the money on more mods


electric = strip/ limited street

aluminium mech. = full street/strip

 

Thats fine & dandy but here is the advantages an electric pump gives us LT1 guys:

Mechanical pump fails, it takes out the opti since the opti is right below/beside the water pump & the rear seal on the pump goes it leaks on the optispark

doing a cam swap its pretty hard to put a h20 seal back on & annoying if you go through cam swaps like $hit through a goose.

dyno results have consistantely proven an 8rwhp gain.

if electrical system fails you have other things to worry about, like your car's ignition system not working

if you are **** about your engine you can program your car to die when it reaches a sertain temperature (hope you're not on the HWY when this happens)

electric pumps outlast stock pumps on the LT1 since the stock pump almost always leak after 50+K sometimes earlier sometimes later.

electric pump goes you just have to remove the 6 small little 3/8th bolt holding the electric pump onto the housing & install a new one, without removing the housing (removing the housing gets coolant on the optispark & requires gaskets/fan removal, coolant hose removal etc.... all is eliminated with electric pump.

electric pump runs cooler up to around 5000rpm, after then the stocker starts to outflow the electric, that you don't need that much flow especially when you are there for only a little while.

electric pump fails nothing happens to opti I think I mentioned that.

You can use Cloyes Dual roller timing chain becuase you take out the h20 pump gear which the stock timing chain drives.

if your pump fails you can wire in a lite inside the car to tell you it failed, maybe even your shift light, you'll know to stop when that thing goes off. Plus if you are moving on the HWY or fast speeds, the movement of the car (motion) acts sort of like a weak water pump in it self, I fergot the term but I learned that at school, if the car is moving it provides enough something to keep the coolant flowing on its own.

You don't need to run coolant in normal weather because the electric pump doesn't need lubrication

list goes on.

 

you made some good points, but he doesnt have an LT1 hes got a "normal motor"

-water wetter will sove the lube problem

- you can run any timing chain setup regardless on a coventional sbc setup

- and what i mean by electrical failure is the pump or wiring failing, or an alternator, keeps less draw off the battery.

- from the looks of it its a sound choice for an LT1 but thats not what we are running.

- and the most important, why buy a pump again when you already got a good aftermarket one

 

wow! Those were both great responses!

I see why you would want to go with the electric on the LT1's...

Good thing is I'm already running a cloyes true dual roller chain with a high flow edelbrock pump.

What do you need the light for? You see your cars starting to overheat... you pull over... and you see coolant puking out of the pump... Problem solved!

I don't see how having the light shine in your face is going to prevent any other damage or make the situation any better... bottom line is the pump failed! Only time I could see it being useful is if you never look at your gauges when your driving. Then you'll definatly need that light to shine in your face!

 

hey no worries .. $250 for a new rad is pretty good price !! for some reason i thought a new rad like griffin or a new GM rad or anything custom would be upwards ofr $500+

 

Well... I was quoted ~$850 for a Be Cool rad. and $260 for a stock replacement from Lordco.

Then I phoned up this other place and he said he'd be able to make me a 3 core copper rad for the same price as a the stocker!

hhmmm what a tough decision that was!