Some of you guys know I've been battling some coolant loss issues ever since I did heads/cam on my LT1 last June. While I did dyno some good numbers last October at a dyno day, the car was intermittently losing a little coolant and I could sometimes smell it. I attributed this to not cleaning the threads in the block on the passenger side (I had gone back and redone the driver's side properly last July). So two weekends ago I sacked up and removed the passenger head.

However, to my extreme disappointment the coolant loss is much worse than ever. The car is not really driiveable. I did the head install by the book and am quite proficient in it now. The only thing I can think of is that I did it myself - I have an IR angle die grinder on which I run the "gasket removal kit" from Standard Abrasives. Basically it's a 3in pad and a Scotchbrite-like disk. They have them for cast iron and aluminum. They work quite well. I just use the aluminum (fine) ones on everything. I used it on the deck and the head, and I am thinking where the head gets narrow between the cylinders I might have removed some metal. That is my speculation, though.

But, since I was going to build a stroker motor for an upcoming blower anyway, within the next year, I am just going to take the hit and pull my engine and build that. Unfortunately it's going to kill most of the summer for me. However I am looking forward to dropping the motor out the bottom (using Jim's lift of course) and building my own.

I've already learned a few things: that I cannot get down to 9.0:1 using my heads and and a 31cc dished piston. I would have to have the chambers opened up on my heads 4-6cc. This is aggravated by the fact that my heads may have been milled and may need to be milled more now, if my above theory is correct. Opening the chambers may cost more than I want to spend.....

So far I'm thinking about JE pistons, Eagle 5.7" rods, and maybe a Callies crank..... I will be running my existing cam and keeping the revs below 6000. The blower will probably be a D1. I was hoping to get to 15 psi but will have to limit it to whatever I can run with the CR I end up with.

 

>Well good luck with your build up , but stay away from internet engine builders (I won't mention any names) .

 

Seems like you've done your share of homework.

Just be careful clearancing the block and you'll be fine. If you dont' feel confident, just send it to someone who's done them before.

 

Anytime you pull an aluminum head off it will almost always need to be resurfaced. If you pulled the head off, ran a scotchbrite pad on it, and put it back on, then it was a recipe for trouble. I don't think I've ever seen an aluminum head come off after use and not need it.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.... I have learned a few more things since I posted, namely about piston deck clearance and quench. So I might be able to get south of 9.5:1. However people are warning me about variability in the combustion chamber sizes cylinder-to-cylinder.... So, I might still have to have my chambers opened up.... Wonder what the price tag for that would be..... Also, my heads will be getting what is probably their second milling, so we will have to see what cc's the chambers end up at. Anyone ever use golen engine service located at Hanscom Field, civil side? http://golensengineservice.com

Joe

 

I bought my new shortblock from him in the beginning of February(haven't put it in yet). I was able to pick up the engine a week after I ordered it, which I thought was cool. It's a 383 with forged JE pistons, forged rods, and a cast crank. I should(crosses fingers) have it up and running in a couple of weeks. Chad seems to be a really cool guy. They were really down to earth.

 

My best friend's dad is very good friend's w/ chad, basically cause he hooks him up at the hobby shop on base so chad returns the favor.

He had his 406 completely built by them and it came out really well. Check around and see if anyone else has had experience with them, they do advertise in CHP and Super Chevy so I'm sure its not just limited to business from around here.

 

Have heard a few good things about Golens and a few BAD things about them. There are so many people that do SBC's that it is worth it to look around.

Don't waste your time on the LT1 heads. Just get the LT4 upper end. www.paceparts.com sells them for like $2200. That includes the cam and all the hardware.

 

You have some nice gtp heads if i remember correctly. If i were you I would sell them as you can still get decent money for them and get heads that will be perfect for your setup that way you won't have to take the heads off anymore cause you'll have the perfect set. You could get at least 1100 for your used heads.

 

Yep, I bought them used last year for $1200. Last time I checked AFR's were going for $1750 - they're probably even more now. Plus, I would have to have my heads checked out, pressure tested, etc, before I sold them to someone - that would probably be another $100. So for me to swap heads would be close to $1000, and from what I understand the AFR's don't make their numbers, which would make them inferior to my heads..... Decisions, decisions....