what saftey items do you have?
07-31-2003, 11:41 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: SW Chicago
Posts: 550
what saftey items do you have?
I just ordered my NX kit today (thanks TByrne). Im going with the MSD window switch and a bigger fuel pump. What else do I need? I obviously want to keep my car as safe as possible. Im looking at spraying 100-125.
It only has ~58k on it, so its not all that worn, nor abused.
It only has ~58k on it, so its not all that worn, nor abused.
08-01-2003, 04:47 AM
#2
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Location: Buffalo, New York
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The kit should already have a WOT switch and you already have the next most important item, the window switch. The only other thing you might consider is a fuel pressure safety switch. Not expensive and a potentail engine saver. I use one.
Rich Krause
Rich Krause
08-01-2003, 10:48 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 663
If you get the gen 2 kit the only thing left would be a fuel pressure gauge and a N2O gauge. I spray between 3000-5600. I don't want to spray through the shifts to save my tranny, but some guess do it. Better safe than sorry for me. If you go to my web page you can see my NX install, I have a Racetronix fuel pump with an install for that as well.
08-02-2003, 04:38 AM
#9
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Clarksville, TN
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Originally posted by NineSevenWS6
Either Im dumb or blind, I dont see it.
Either Im dumb or blind, I dont see it.
Here you go. Autometer N2O gauge
08-03-2003, 09:07 PM
#12
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Grand Rapids, Mi USA
Posts: 409
If you want to run consistant get rid of the fuel safety switch.
What I'm saying is you could keep the switch but rewire it so it will not shut your kit down. After you use one for awhile you will understand what I'm talking about. Wire it to indash light.
I've used a FPSS once! Next thing you know the nitrous kit would not work and then would work. Thing is either the HOBBS switch is to sensitive and adjusting it will not work or the initial fuel psi drop while making a run would trigger it. I found this out after seeing what the fuel psi was doing during a run after downloading the data logger recording after a run. The fuel side of the nitrous kit was dropping psi a touch as the kit was ingaged and going down the run. This little bit of fuel psi loss was not enought to become concerned plus the fuel psi would recover fast but was shutting off the kit due to the Hobbs switch.
One problem I had with a few Hobbs switchs was if I set the switch to break the circuit at say 9 psi it would change after a little use and have the kit shutting down and or not working at all. I want to add that this was not caused by the pump being to small. The pump in use at the time was a Holly 500gph Dominator Series Pump dedicated only for the nitrous kit and #8 lines feeding the fuel solenoids.
This is kinda high end but when you want precise tunning I decided this was the only way to go. This year I'm using individual EGT probes per cylinder mounted into the exhaust primaries at the head and the nitrous will deactivate if the readings get nasty.
Good Luck
What I'm saying is you could keep the switch but rewire it so it will not shut your kit down. After you use one for awhile you will understand what I'm talking about. Wire it to indash light.
I've used a FPSS once! Next thing you know the nitrous kit would not work and then would work. Thing is either the HOBBS switch is to sensitive and adjusting it will not work or the initial fuel psi drop while making a run would trigger it. I found this out after seeing what the fuel psi was doing during a run after downloading the data logger recording after a run. The fuel side of the nitrous kit was dropping psi a touch as the kit was ingaged and going down the run. This little bit of fuel psi loss was not enought to become concerned plus the fuel psi would recover fast but was shutting off the kit due to the Hobbs switch.
One problem I had with a few Hobbs switchs was if I set the switch to break the circuit at say 9 psi it would change after a little use and have the kit shutting down and or not working at all. I want to add that this was not caused by the pump being to small. The pump in use at the time was a Holly 500gph Dominator Series Pump dedicated only for the nitrous kit and #8 lines feeding the fuel solenoids.
This is kinda high end but when you want precise tunning I decided this was the only way to go. This year I'm using individual EGT probes per cylinder mounted into the exhaust primaries at the head and the nitrous will deactivate if the readings get nasty.
Good Luck
Last edited by JWINN; 08-03-2003 at 09:16 PM.
08-03-2003, 09:21 PM
#13
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: SW Chicago
Posts: 550
Ill keep that in mind, thanks.
Anyone else care to chime in as far as the window switch is concerned. I won a 3 and a 6k chip on ebay. Can I use the 6k? My buddy has some 5k series chips for sale, just wondering if I should pick those up instead.
Anyone else care to chime in as far as the window switch is concerned. I won a 3 and a 6k chip on ebay. Can I use the 6k? My buddy has some 5k series chips for sale, just wondering if I should pick those up instead.
08-03-2003, 10:41 PM
#14
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 663
Is you car a M6 or A4? The stock shift points for an A4 from1-2 and 2-3 are 5700RPMs. That's why I have mine shut off at 5600 so as not to spray through the shifts. Thats the whole point of a window switch.
