At what rpm do I turn on and off the nitrous
08-02-2009, 12:51 PM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Barrie, Ontario
Posts: 321
Actually I forgot I put 5 degress of retard last week when I was planning a 125 shot. I have a chassis mount adjustable TA. I'm still running AC delco OE replacement plugs with about 3miles on them. I'm not looking forward to changing them. Do you think its safe to run a 100 shot without going down a heat range or two.
When I sprayed to 100 shot the guys car behind my got covered with what he thinks is fuel. Is that normal. I notice if a park to close to my garage door I leave a black wet spray on the door if I rev it a little too much going into first gear. I thought that was condensation and was not worried about it. When we ran the shot the car was running for over an hour so it should not be condensation
When I sprayed to 100 shot the guys car behind my got covered with what he thinks is fuel. Is that normal. I notice if a park to close to my garage door I leave a black wet spray on the door if I rev it a little too much going into first gear. I thought that was condensation and was not worried about it. When we ran the shot the car was running for over an hour so it should not be condensation
Last edited by stephenpen; 08-02-2009 at 01:13 PM.
08-02-2009, 08:28 PM
#18
Administrator
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,668
The OEM AC/Delco platinum plugs are not a good choice for nitrous. The little platinum pucks are going to fall off, and leave you with a .070 - .100" gap (depending on whether one or two fall off). The ground strap is also a good candidate for a glow plug. Its going to be missing when you pull the plugs.
I would have thought you would have dropped down 1 step on the heat range just because of the power output of the NA 383. I run an Autolite 103 with a 125-shot.
I would have thought you would have dropped down 1 step on the heat range just because of the power output of the NA 383. I run an Autolite 103 with a 125-shot.
08-02-2009, 08:38 PM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Barrie, Ontario
Posts: 321
Well I guess I'm doing the plugs tomorrow. Here in canada the tr6 -tr7s are over a $100 a set of 8. But if thats what I have to do thats what I have to do. I hope all the plug is still there. Anyone feel like shipping me a set of plugs if I paypal you the cost. The cheapest plug I can get is around $25 each pair and I think you guys south of the border pay 6-8 bucks each. I have only sprayed a couple of times.
Last edited by stephenpen; 08-03-2009 at 01:35 PM.
08-02-2009, 09:51 PM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: A-town, TX
Posts: 666
08-03-2009, 09:57 AM
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Carol Stream, Il.
Posts: 3,557
As Fred mentioned, just having a hi output motor would justify trying a slightly colder plug. Please do as you said and don't spray any more until you put some TR7s in it. Part # BR7EF and gap them at .032.
I'll send you a PM on a place that you might want to purchase from.
I'll send you a PM on a place that you might want to purchase from.
08-04-2009, 07:02 AM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Barrie, Ontario
Posts: 321
BR7EF $6 each at our local parts store that does alot of work with circle track and local race engines. Nowhere elso in town stocks these plugs. I still can't believe the price difference between Canada and USA. The $25 bucks a pair was on a platinum plug XI with a 7 heat range thats why the price was so high. Hopefully this goes well. It looks likes I could get a few plugs with no problems.
08-06-2009, 12:30 AM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Barrie, Ontario
Posts: 321
I took the old AC plugs out and they look fine. Good color and everything was still there. They looked really clean almost too clean. If I had too much fuel they would have been wet but they were dry with a little tan color. I put NGK BR7EF in and I'll check them after a run or two on the bottle.
08-06-2009, 12:17 PM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Carol Stream, Il.
Posts: 3,557
I think they say a 1 lb. is used with a 100 shot for every 10 seconds. Do you have a bottle heater, pressure gauge? Weigh the bottle to see where it's at, and don't spray it if you don't have enough pressure. Running to rich during a run is not good for the motor.
08-09-2009, 06:43 AM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Barrie, Ontario
Posts: 321
The bottle was down to 4.5lbs. I have a pressure gauge but no bottle heater. I have heard of people having bottle heaters not turning off and causing big problems. Are there better heaters then other ?. My mechanic told my to run a nitrous jet one size up then the fuel jet because they always put too much fuel to be safe. I'm not sure about doing that
08-09-2009, 02:51 PM
#27
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Carol Stream, Il.
Posts: 3,557
I wouldn't run without a bottle heater. How are you going to keep the pressure where it belongs? My heater is automatic, just set it to what pressure you want and it keeps it there. If it did go bad and over heat the bottle, well that's what the burst disc and blow down tube is for. What pressure does your kit recommend? Like I said before, you need to have all your ducks in a row or something nasty is going to happen.
Your mechanic is correct and most kits are set up to be on the rich side. You won't know for sure though unless you put it on the dyno or have a wideband. That is unless you are good at reading plugs, that might be another option.
Your mechanic is correct and most kits are set up to be on the rich side. You won't know for sure though unless you put it on the dyno or have a wideband. That is unless you are good at reading plugs, that might be another option.
08-09-2009, 06:36 PM
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Barrie, Ontario
Posts: 321
I have a wideband and my readings don't change very much on the bottle. I read from 12.30 to 12.75 on the bottle. I've never seen a bottle heater that regulates pressure. What kind do you have and how do they work. I'mgo to look into one of those
08-09-2009, 07:53 PM
#29
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Carol Stream, Il.
Posts: 3,557
What wideband you running, I need to pick one up when the money permits. I picked up my heater when I bought the kit from Nitro Daves. You know, I'm not sure how it works, off temp or pressure? Maybe someone can chime in.
08-09-2009, 09:18 PM
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Dallas,TX
Posts: 1,071
I am running the Innovate Lc1 with DB gauge and it works great.
I believe the Nitro Daves bottle heater has a switch that goes off the bottle pressure and it keeps it within a specific range. Once you get it set at what pressure you want it to be at it will keep it there.
I believe the Nitro Daves bottle heater has a switch that goes off the bottle pressure and it keeps it within a specific range. Once you get it set at what pressure you want it to be at it will keep it there.